Introducing Simple $25-35 Hub Removal Tool

[Astro_Pneumatic_Tools]

This is our new 78834

“Last Chance” Impact Rated Hub Removal Bolt Kit​

Basically grade 8 M12 and M14 bolts with ball bearings on the end to press out stuck hubs.
Showing up here 1st for around $28: https://amzn.to/3okbikH

Or make your own, heck we didn't invent bolts.
McMaster-Carr (12mm): 91310A146 & 95003A209 (14mm) 90447A830 (or if you can find 4" fully threaded) & 95003A211 + something sacrificial to press against

• For bolt-in or otherwise corroded hubs that should have come out with your 1st attempt but refuse to
• Simply use these impact rated ¾” (19mm) socket size M12 and M14 thread bolts and 15/16” (24mm) nuts to push against the knuckle assembly and force the hub out
• Use free hole locations existing in the hub or hammer out 1-2 wheel studs to install these press bolts (or 3 if ordering 2 sets)
• Custom press bolts feature a ball bearing end and work with included press feet to freely angle against uneven knuckles and dust shields

• Includes 2 M14 press bolts and nuts, 2 M12 press bolts and nuts, and two press feet.

 

[Sal Bandini]

That's great until you have a car where you can't remove the studs unless you remove the hub.

Edit: Didn't read about the free holes in the hub. That would work on my car.

 

[qqzj]

The best solution to move to places where there is no rust!

 

[Astro_Pneumatic_Tools]

That's great until you have a car where you can't remove the studs unless you remove the hub.

Edit: Didn't read about the free holes in the hub. That would work on my car.

Also, if you're removing the hub, there's a large chance you're replacing the hub. In which case, the new one will have new studs on it.
So just cut off the stud end and knock the small remainder out the back. You're not reusing that stud anyways.

Or in the less likely case you're removing a rusted hub you need to put back in, you're out the cost of a single lug stud to remove the hub.

 

[Sal Bandini]

Also, if you're removing the hub, there's a large chance you're replacing the hub. In which case, the new one will have new studs on it.
So just cut off the stud end and knock the small remainder out the back. You're not reusing that stud anyways.

Or in the less likely case you're removing a rusted hub you need to put back in, you're out the cost of a single lug stud to remove the hub.

2018 Civic Si. I love the car but c'mon, you can't put a space in the knuckle to remove the stud?

 

[shoeless]

2018 Civic Si. I love the car but c'mon, you can't put a space in the knuckle to remove the stud?

Apparently it’s a Honda thing in general. CRVs are the same way.

 

[Lucid Moments]

The best solution to move to places where there is no rust!

Or just start out in the South to begin with. We have plenty of issues but rust just isn't one of them.

 

[rlitman]

Also, if you're removing the hub, there's a large chance you're replacing the hub. In which case, the new one will have new studs on it.
So just cut off the stud end and knock the small remainder out the back. You're not reusing that stud anyways.

Or in the less likely case you're removing a rusted hub you need to put back in, you're out the cost of a single lug stud to remove the hub.

If you're super cheap, you could put a nut on the stud before hammering it free and save it. But yeah, if I'm removing the hub, I'm replacing it, and replacements come with the studs already pressed in.

I've removed hubs with a hammer and chisel, but this looks less likely to munge up the dust shields. I have to remember this one. I don't do this enough to buy the tool, but I can still imagine it selling well.

 

[j3rf]

Had mine pre-ordered on Amazon as soon as I saw it a few weeks ago thanks to Eric O. Hopefully ships out soon so I can get it doing some work on all these damn Subaru wheel bearings.

 

[Handyandy23]

Will this be available on Amazon.ca as well? Not seeing it there yet.

 

[Sal Bandini]

If you're super cheap, you could put a nut on the stud before hammering it free and save it. But yeah, if I'm removing the hub, I'm replacing it, and replacements come with the studs already pressed in.

I've removed hubs with a hammer and chisel, but this looks less likely to munge up the dust shields. I have to remember this one. I don't do this enough to buy the tool, but I can still imagine it selling well.

You can borrow it at Autozone. That's what I did, along with borrowing a slide hammer.

 

[cmandp]

That's great until you have a car where you can't remove the studs unless you remove the hub.

That would be annoying but assuming your replacing the hub with new just cut the stud and hammer out the little slug. I would hope the knuckle would have enough room for a 1/2" little slug to come out the back, but I bet there are some cars that dont...

 

[Astro_Pneumatic_Tools]

Will this be available on Amazon.ca as well? Not seeing it there yet.

Yes I'm sure. It's just brand new so very few places have it for sale yet. And even Amazon isn't shipping right away

 

[haveissues]

I wonder if this would have worked on the wife's subaru last week. Getting the rear hub out was a PITA.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Yes I'm sure. It's just brand new so very few places have it for sale yet. And even Amazon isn't shipping right away

I'll be interested in trying these out. How many uses are these good for, roughly? I know you could kill one going nuts in a siezed hub if you really wanted to.

 

[rlitman]

I wonder if this would have worked on the wife's subaru last week. Getting the rear hub out was a PITA.

Has Subaru changed their design? I used a 5lb slide hammer to pull my hubs, and then used a hub-tamer tool to get the outer race out.

 

[Astro_Pneumatic_Tools]

I'll be interested in trying these out. How many uses are these good for, roughly? I know you could kill one going nuts in a siezed hub if you really wanted to.

It's of course dependent on how stuck the hubs are, and we were limited in the diameters we could use and still fit into the hub holes. But I will say that the hub bolts we originally prototyped for Eric lasted well through field testing, production and shipping so that when he got his 1st actual set the last ones we're about on their way out.
Both the bolts and nuts exceed grade 8, so are more like Class 12.9. And the nuts are 1.5X thicker for more thread engagement.

 

[haveissues]

Has Subaru changed their design? I used a 5lb slide hammer to pull my hubs, and then used a hub-tamer tool to get the outer race out.

Yes, hers is a 2015. You replaced the whole hub on those, the bearing is not replaceable and they rust in real good in areas with salt. It laughed at the slide hammer. Got it off with an air hammer and a sledge beating on the hub. There there is a tool called the hub shocker which in retrospect I should have bought but I was trying to make do with what I have.

 

[Kent_B]

I bought a hub shocker. It worked like a champ on the front hubs of my Outback. Haven't had to do the rears yet.

 

[Buckgnarly]

Yes, hers is a 2015. You replaced the whole hub on those, the bearing is not replaceable and they rust in real good in areas with salt. It laughed at the slide hammer. Got it off with an air hammer and a sledge beating on the hub. There there is a tool called the hub shocker which in retrospect I should have bought but I was trying to make do with what I have.

Hub shocker laughed at my wife's 2014 Outback rear. Took my .498 CP 717 air hammer and heat to get that one out.
If only there were a long barrel version of air hammer like that out there...maybe call it "Thor" or something......hahahaha!

I did use McMaster to make a set like this with all thread and tall nuts, have not needed it yet, but I'll probably grab this kit anyway. As always decent price from Astro and you can NEVER have enough "oh ****" rust tools up here.

Edit: just looked at kit, yup ordered it. That tip sold me for sure!

 

[vssjim]

I have had mine on order asap as these are needed all the time.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I grabbed a set on Amazon as well. A month out, but I'll forget I ordered them and it'll be like Christmas.

Between these, the hub shocker, and my 498 hammer (and incoming THOR) - PLUS the cutting torch - I like to be prepared for rust and crust. IMO these plus a 498 air hammer would really rattle the corrosion loose. We shall see.

 

[Handyandy23]

I already have the Astro 78830 HD Hub Puller and it works great, have never had a hub yet that it didn't yank right off. But this setup is very simple and I think would be a nice alternative to have if I don't want to pull the whole kit out, and for the price hard to go wrong.

 

[sweetk30]

********* rust belt tech here . . . Seen a lot of hubs pop past the bearing and leave the body in the knuckle. Had a few sets require my 20ton shop press to bust free .

So with any tool it will have its limits .

 

[Astro_Pneumatic_Tools]

********* rust belt tech here . . . Seen a lot of hubs pop past the bearing and leave the body in the knuckle. Had a few sets require my 20ton shop press to bust free .

So with any tool it will have its limits .

Certainly no one thing will do all the things. Even big nasty enjoys the help of heat or a puller in tandem on certain jobs. But more tools in the arsenal to use before unbolting everything and taking it to the press, causing the need to re-alignment, is always good!

 

[sweetk30]

Certainly no one thing will do all the things. Even big nasty enjoys the help of heat or a puller in tandem on certain jobs. But more tools in the arsenal to use before unbolting everything and taking it to the press, causing the need to re-alignment, is always good!

I got 20+ years working in the rust belt of hell . . Trust me i got tricks and last resort was the press .

Not saying this tool is not good or helpful. . . Just be careful as you use it if your up here in the heavy rust belt .

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Skip the press, last resort is pulling the whole knuckle out and just liquefying the hub with the torch. No danger of breaking the knuckle before the bearing yields.

 

[cmandp]

I had no luck doing the rear bearings on my BIL's 2009 Outback. I took the knuckles over to my Dad since he has our shared press. We couldn't jig it up with what we had for plates and spacers. We ended up heating the knuckle and he took an 8lb sledge to it. He made that look easy but it wasn't at all!

 

[kelpaso1]

If the outer race is siezed to the hub I just take a torch to the race and heat it up red hot and then spray it with water till it is cool. Practically just falls out then.

 

[haveissues]

********* rust belt tech here . . . Seen a lot of hubs pop past the bearing and leave the body in the knuckle. Had a few sets require my 20ton shop press to bust free .

So with any tool it will have its limits .

When I did the wife's subaru I left the halfshaft nut on. Helps hold the hub together until it pops out of the knuckle and there is enough play in the cv joint.

 

[plinker]

When I did the wife's subaru I left the halfshaft nut on. Helps hold the hub together until it pops out of the knuckle and there is enough play in the cv joint.

Just watch if the sensor is stuck in the knuckle when doing this, they can get broken off quite easily. BTDT.


I've had decent success with using a bolt/nut for hub removal, though it can be difficult to get decent hardware at times that will work (full thread, grade 8/10.9). These look ideal. Have to pick some up.

 

[ex-x-fire]

Wait, I didn't hear him say "again, not a sponsor" ten times. Anyways I've been doing the bolt trick for years. Most times there's really not a good place to press against.