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inusulating pole barn questions

bmallak

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Oct 13, 2010
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36
Location
Central MN
I have have a 30x40 pole barn that has the normal nailers on the outside of the posts for the exterior steel. Then it is book shelved framed between the posts on 24" centers. there is no house wrap on it. just Steel. Should I cut tyvek in between the framing then insert nonfaced fiberglass batts or just skip the tyvek. Spray foam is out of the question for cost alone so skip that. I just wanna do it right. I will be finishing the inside with more steel sheets like the outside. with a vapor barrier on the the inside between insulation and steel. Thanks
 
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coljar

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Sep 26, 2010
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Belpre, Ohio
My building is the same size as yours and book shelved on 36" centers. The company(64 Metals) that built it also insulated it. The facing is a white slick like vinyl and is facing the inside. It is R19 and is on the ceiling and on the sides. I've heated the building for 2 years and only had a problem in 2 areas where the warm air was able to reach the metal on the ceiling. I have sealed those areas and have had no further problems. I am now in the process of covering the walls with commercial grade white slatwall, but I plan to leave the ceiling alone for some time, because it doesn't look bad with that shiny white surface. Below the slatwall, I am using prepainted exterior OSB siding called Smartside that's sold at HD or Lowes. It's a light tan and is just right for interior use.
 

Highbeam

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Feb 15, 2011
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Mt Rainier foothills, WA
I used housewrap before putting on the outer metal but if I was in your shoes, I wouldn't bother with it. What's the purpose of housewrap? For me it was to keep wind and wind driven water from making it past the seams in the metal and blowing into the insulation. By piecing it together as you would have to, I don't think it would be effective anyway and it would be a huge headache.
 

jack anderson

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Jul 3, 2011
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Location
Central Pa
I had a similar situation with a 30' X 28' pole barn with 10' 4"" ceilings and loft trusses. I used tyvek prior to framing in 2X4 walls. I sealed the tyvek to the concrete floor and sealed the the sections with tyvek tape. I feel that in addition to a wind barrier it will keep the insulation from making contact with the sheet metal. It would have been more appropriate to use the house wrap prior to having the sheet metal applied. Good luck on you project.
 
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bmallak

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Oct 13, 2010
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36
Location
Central MN
I agree it will be a hassel to piece in the tyvek in between the framing but thought it would help keep the insulation from touching the exterior steel and keep moisture/snow from touching the insulation. For some reason around here no one builds pole buildings with house wrap before the tin. I know plenty that have just insulated and dont worry about it to. Maybe Im just over thinking it.
 

smokem2020

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Jul 21, 2011
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92
Location
Rossville In
I blew insulation in my 30 x60 pole barn walls. first i cut 3 pieces of 2" blue foam for total 6" foam. I caulked it to the floor and between each piece. This was to keep any water from reaching the insulation. Then put vapor barrier on. I then installed my metal siding just like on the outside. Before putting metal on the ceiling I blew the wall cavities full between the poles. I missed out putting plastic on the outside walls. guess i should have done it. I had plastic covered bats on another barn I built and it was so drafty at the joints and the floor I hated it. Good luck on your insulation decision
 
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bmallak

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Oct 13, 2010
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Location
Central MN
I have been told or read that it can cause trap moisture and cause mold and or rust. Dont know if its true or not
 

red5001

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Apr 3, 2012
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Location
Western NY
I am not sure but would it be ok for the insulation to touch the outside wall and have a vapor barrier on the inside wall? I would think the moisture problem would be were the hot and cold meet.
 

D KRAGER

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Oct 16, 2007
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581
Location
Central IL
I put foam board up between the girts against the tin (1.5"). Then I blew the walls full of cellulose and fiberglass bats in a few spots. I figured if there was a moisture problem the foam board would keep the tin from sweating.
 
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bmallak

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Oct 13, 2010
Messages
36
Location
Central MN
I am not sure but would it be ok for the insulation to touch the outside wall and have a vapor barrier on the inside wall? I would think the moisture problem would be were the hot and cold meet.

That is what I am trying to figure out. That is what I would like to do. Easiest and cheapest. I think that is what we did my dads shop on the farm 15 years ago. But we didnt know anything either. Just did it. Seems ok but I have no idea what is going on inside the wall of course.
 

gayler

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Sep 22, 2011
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Location
Lakin Kansas
I'm kind of in the same boat. My 30x40 cleary has a foil covered, some kind of foam with fibers in it put up before the metal. I am framing between the columns that are ten foot on center. and putting R19 or R21 and then OSB. I wondered if I shouls tape the seams on the sheets of insulation before putting up the other insulation?
 

green.bubbly

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Dec 14, 2008
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2,156
Location
Lafayette, LA
Let me start off my admitting that I am no expert on insulation but I have done a lot of research on this topic especially with metal buildings. Where you live makes a big difference.

Applying a little common sense to what I have learned, here is the basic problem. The metal is exposed to the outside air. If the outside air and the metal reach a temperature below your dew point, any humidity in the air will condense on the metal. In colder regions, this would mean that any humid air on the inside of the wall would condensate. Down here in the hot humid south, if the inside is kept cool with air conditioning, the humid air vapor would condensate on the outside.

In the south, with typical house construction, the vapor barrier would be on the outside of the walls. The idea is to prevent humid outside air from reaching the colder indoor air. In the north, it is opposite. You want to prevent warm moist indoor air from reaching the cold outside surfaces.

The key is to prevent as much moisture from reaching the cold metal. No moisture, no condensation. Air will travel through fiberglass insulation and I think this is where the general thought of not having fiberglass touch the metal comes from. That and the fact that many people with metal buildings with no insulation experience the rain effect as the water dripp\s off the ceiling in certain conditions. They naturally think that if there was fiberglass touching the metal, they would still have the rain. The key is to prevent as much moisture from reaching the metal.

I ran into the same situation building my shop and house. My initial plans were to use spray foam but the cost was much more than I planned. I was stuck with metal walls and no wrap. I decided on installing !" foil faced styrofoam sheets to the inside of the walls about one inch from the metal and then installing fiberglass batts.

Again, I am no expert.
 
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