Inverter stick welders

[sberry]

I could ask this on another forum but who has used cheap stick inverter welders. The cheapest I tried, 100$ Forney and is limited to 3/32 6011 or it overheats. I have a Maxstar, it works super. Anyone run the Everlast etc, maybe Longevity models and it lokks like DVI making them a 140 runs about 40$ more than economy 85A models.
I see the Klutch 120V,,,, Hobart should make an entry level inverter stick 120V. My Max never trips a breaker on 120 with 1/8 11 and 3/32 lo hy.
Beautiful for handrail etc and even light ga fab and erection work. I had to run a couple extra rods a while back, 3 extra freakin minutes, the rest of it all single pass fab with small electrodes was fine and even easier.

 

[sberry]

I think an Everlast DVI 150 stick is like 250$. For maintenance work it is better than the AC/DC buzzer due to being portable and runs on 120. A buzzer cost 500 new today, now an inverter uses number 12 wire and doesnt need extra leads. The inverter can do 90% of the work on 120, what a Godsend for portable. Its not for pipelining or heavy equipment but for light fab it put my portable and dragging lead out of the game.
It cost near 800 when I bought it, now the clone looks to be 250, wonder who has tried them?

 

[MJD1]

I have the esab 161, had it 4-5 years. Paid about 400$ for it. Not sure if it's in production still. I could run 3/32" 7018 at 90 amps or so on a good 110 circuit. For the most part I use it on 220. It also does a decent job on lift arc Tig.

 

[theoldwizard1]

You are not talking cheap until you are talking about the HF 80A inverter stick welder. People have successfully converted it to lift arc TIG.

 

[MO-Iron]

I would be interested in the details of a lift arc conversion. Not a scratch start, but a true lift arc.
I use lift arc on my trailblazer 302 and love it.

 

[G-ManBart]

I had an Everlast PowerArc 200ST for a while and was very happy with how it welded. It seemed to run hot, and I had to dial back my settings compared with my Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC and Hobart Champion Elite. It handled 6010 with no problems at all and I thought it had a really nice arc. Unfortunately, mine had an electrical gremlin in the display (said it was at 35amps when it was really at 100, etc) and they gave me full purchase price credit towards a new machine since I had decided to get a TIG setup.

Lots of guys over on the Garage Journal picked up some of the smaller units when they had a bunch left over after a redesign, and they've seemingly all reported good results.

The one thing I'll say is that you'll get a better price if you call and talk to the sales guys rather than just buying on their website. I think I paid $340 for the 200ST.

 

[Cope]

I had a Longevity 200si Tig/Stick. It is a 200 amp machine. I ran some 1/88" 6013 and 6010 with it. It did fine with both. I have not tried a stand alone Stick inverter, but I've been tempted by the Everlast.

 

[MoonRise]

I have a DC 120/240V 'lunchbox' inverter stick welder. The LWS 'house' brand, picked it up when I went through the LWS one time. It was 'mis' priced, so I got it pretty cheap.

Works the times I've used it.

Seemed to be OK with 1/8" electrodes, Excalibur 7018 and some Lincoln 5P+ 6010. But I ran those with 240V power. I think I ran some 3/32 rods on 120V power to play with it, but not much IIRC.

 

[sberry]

I had a Longevity 200si Tig/Stick. It is a 200 amp machine. I ran some 1/88" 6013 and 6010 with it. It did fine with both. I have not tried a stand alone Stick inverter, but I've been tempted by the Everlast.

Yes, agree they would need to use 240 to run 1/8 7018.
As a matter of fact type thing, for others, there is somewhat misconception that 13 is great for sheet and 11 not so much b9ut in truth somewhat a trade off. You don't have to make 11 dig, you can and a lot of light materials, would just as soon and do use 1/8 vs 3/32. 11 will run at 85A and 13 really needs the current of 18 to run well.
All that pretty small bore pipe we see flange jockey and others well with such precision is small electrode ****. The ample electrode at some lower current allows for filling gaps faster. 3/32 11 dcrp was used all the time by high skilled sheet guys, good well clamped and fit sheet is not much a problem, limited 16 ga work or drywall studs done all the time.
I am a career stick welder and may be guilty for not using a polarity change . I really should try 13 for structural work but I am a 6010 7018 guy and for homeboy work gradiated to 6011 over the years. If it was a production issue would get 5/32 in 11 for some cases. The machine should run it but would run out of duty cycle faster and with 1/8 11 will run toasty all day from a 120 v circuit. Same for 3/32 7018 and super for second pass vertical or small bore piping.

 

[Cope]

Yes, agree they would need to use 240 to run 1/8 7018.
As a matter of fact type thing, for others, there is somewhat misconception that 13 is great for sheet and 11 not so much b9ut in truth somewhat a trade off. You don't have to make 11 dig, you can and a lot of light materials, would just as soon and do use 1/8 vs 3/32. 11 will run at 85A and 13 really needs the current of 18 to run well.
All that pretty small bore pipe we see flange jockey and others well with such precision is small electrode ****. The ample electrode at some lower current allows for filling gaps faster. 3/32 11 dcrp was used all the time by high skilled sheet guys, good well clamped and fit sheet is not much a problem, limited 16 ga work or drywall studs done all the time.
I am a career stick welder and may be guilty for not using a polarity change . I really should try 13 for structural work but I am a 6010 7018 guy and for homeboy work gradiated to 6011 over the years. If it was a production issue would get 5/32 in 11 for some cases. The machine should run it but would run out of duty cycle faster and with 1/8 11 will run toasty all day from a 120 v circuit. Same for 3/32 7018 and super for second pass vertical or small bore piping.

There's a guy over at Weldingweb who lives in the UK. Apparently they use 6013 for pipeline work over there.

 

[sberry]

I have a DC 120/240V 'lunchbox' inverter stick welder. The LWS 'house' brand, picked it up when I went through the LWS one time. It was 'mis' priced, so I got it pretty cheap.

Works the times I've used it.

Seemed to be OK with 1/8" electrodes, Excalibur 7018 and some Lincoln 5P+ 6010. But I ran those with 240V power. I think I ran some 3/32 rods on 120V power to play with it, but not much IIRC.

Yes this. Some of the 6010 is relatively low current, same as 11 with fast freeze. If you don't have much use for it then it doesn't matter for sure but it runs the 1/8 10 or 11 on 120V. Same rods I often use from a truck or my DC shop welder. My little shop welder is set at 85 as it is.
!st pic was the front and the second the back. The second 2 pass 7018 via 3/32. All 120V Adequate for structural work on 1/4 material and they use em in a nuke for a good share.
In the first pic it was 2 square **** 1/4 plates no bevel simply to demonstrate the power needed to nearly fuse and fill this 1/4 in a single pass. As I mention some sincere practice would improve quality.
I added a pic 4 for giggles but think my brother may have done this to prove a melt dig reorganize it all till just before it eats thru, Almost 100% penetration in a no prep T joint.
Back to 1 and 2, was attempt at full penetration and as little additional filler as needed to melt and add any filler as needed and let it refreeze. You need to leave enough gap to be able to add the filler needed to generate the melting current.

 

[kctyphoon]

I don't have one, but that small white HF model gets some good attention online. Not sure if that what you're looking for.

https://t.harborfreight.com/welding/arc-welders/80-amp-inverter-stick-welder-61749.html

I guess this is the bigger model -

https://t.harborfreight.com/welding...-240-volt-inverter-tigstick-welder-61792.html

 

[sberry]

The only issue I ever had with the Max was some 120V circuits 150 ft or more would let it trip up a 20A breaker up past 70 A output.

 

[sberry]

I was just curious as to how good these things been working. My bud needs a machine, lots easier to talk him in to a 240$ Everlast than a 1000$ Miller for the limited use it would see.
While its great to support the good one and he does in many items the return he would get from the first piece would be huge.

 

[LG63]

Bringing this thread back to life to see if anyone here owns one of the new Miller Thunderbolt DC machines? I'm thinking to replace my old Lincoln tombstone AC machine with the Thunderbolt 160. I use my mig 95% of the time but like having a stick welder available and the small footprint of the Thunderbolt would be ideal for my cramped quarters. Not interested in Tig so a stick only machine works for me.

 

[plinker]

I bought a Hobart 210i DC stickmate last fall, haven't used it a whole lot but seems easy to use. It's pretty tiny. Made in china (no suprise).

I'm not sure what differences there are between the Hobart and Miller, other then the paint on these particular machines.

 

[LG63]

I bought a Hobart 210i DC stickmate last fall, haven't used it a whole lot but seems easy to use. It's pretty tiny. Made in china (no suprise).

I'm not sure what differences there are between the Hobart and Miller, other then the paint on these particular machines.

From the published specs the Hobart and Miller models look identical but price on the Miller 210 looks high for blue paint

Hobart 160: $339
Miller 160: $425
Hobart 210: $419
Miller 210: $655

 

[dnschmidt]

I see little point in buying anything except the AlphaTig 200. For $680 you get AC/DC TIG and a damn good stick welder (that can be used AC or DC although AHP doesn't recommend that it be used in AC). Goes up to about 130A on 110V and 200A on 220V. Burns 1/8" 7018 beautifully at 125-140A.

 

[trackwelder]

I recently replaced a miller 150s with a Esab 161. I’m a Miller man with the exception of big engine drives and suitcase welders. If that thunderbolt was around I would have bought that before the Esab. No complaints yet with the Esab it’s just a matter of service with me and Miller has always been great to deal with.

 

[Roberts210]

I've seen old Lincoln AC stick welders sell for $80. That's pretty cheap for a good welder. This was in L.A. 2 months ago at the Glendale ReStore. I've seen the same welders on CL for $125.

 

[strutaeng]

Subscribed. I've got an Hobart Ironman 210 for MIG/Fluxcore and an old Miller Thunderbolt AC buzzbox for stick, but neither are too portable, even with 50' leads on my stick.

The new Hobart lunchbox inverters seem like a good deal for doing small stuff around the house like (DC stick) fencing and the like. I've got no use for TIG.

 

[LG63]

I've got no use for TIG.

You and me make two.... apparently the exception here on GJ. My main concern with the inverter welders is reliability. I doubt I’d use one enough during the warranty period to test its durability and I suspect they are pretty much non-repairable bricks if anything happens after the warranty is up.

 

[strutaeng]

You and me make two.... apparently the exception here on GJ. My main concern with the inverter welders is reliability. I doubt I’d use one enough during the warranty period to test its durability and I suspect they are pretty much non-repairable bricks if anything happens after the warranty is up.

I think it is because a lot of members here are into auto stuff, where TIG is more useful, along with MIG. I'm more into structural. TIG has no place in structural unless unless you are building with aluminum or some other alloy.

For anything structural 12 gauge and thicker, Fluxcore or stick.

Regarding reliability: that's the same reason why I have not purchsed one. Inverters are never going to be more reliable than transformer based technology. I'm sure if a circuit board shorts out down the road, the machine is trash. This is the disadvantage. But the advantages are portability and power consumption and they have gotten cheaper for us DIYs.

I'm open to recommendations.

 

[trackwelder]

I’m the same as you guys and have no use for tig much these days. I really like the little inverter stick welders and would not go without one. I bought a Maxstar 150s as soon as they were released and used the hell out of it. Last year it quit working and the board to fix it was over $500.

 

[strutaeng]

I’m the same as you guys and have no use for tig much these days. I really like the little inverter stick welders and would not go without one. I bought a Maxstar 150s as soon as they were released and used the hell out of it. Last year it quit working and the board to fix it was over $500.

Dang, that's what I'm afraid of. Maybe I'll stick with old school, LOL.

What do you use it for? Earn a living with it? Approximately how many hours on the machine? Dusty environment? I'm guessing since you went with inverter, you will replace with a similar model?

If they are indeed disposable, it makes sense to buy the cheapest one out there for DIY use (but still satisfies needs such as amps and duty cycle)? I just never thought of buying a "no-name" welder.

 

[trackwelder]

I bet that machine had well over 500 hours of use. I have used it in muddy fields repairing farming equipment, in the rain up in man lifts, in snowy parking lots fixing plows, and tons of grinding dust areas. I replaced it with an Esab 161 which is very nice. I have about 20 hours on it burning 6010, 6011, and 7018 rods. With my use I expect an issue within the first few years so I went with a company that has actual service centers to handle any possible warranty repairs. I’m not interested in any of the no-name junk myself.

 

[sberry]

Dang, that's what I'm afraid of. Maybe I'll stick with old school, LOL.

What do you use it for? Earn a living with it? Approximately how many hours on the machine? Dusty environment? I'm guessing since you went with inverter, you will replace with a similar model?

If they are indeed disposable, it makes sense to buy the cheapest one out there for DIY use (but still satisfies needs such as amps and duty cycle)? I just never thought of buying a "no-name" welder.

It looks like for about 225 to 240$ a guy could get a branded clone. I have a Max mvp. I was near 800$ for it 10 years ago. I havnt used it much but it is thrifty on power and will burn 1/8 6011 and 3/32 lo hy on 120V and not trip the breaker, nice and toasty too.
I wondered if the clones do the same and as was said, they really are disposable at the import price. Make sure and use it a little during the warranty but its near revolutionary to do that much work for so little cost especially where demand may be low and not so critical?
Being able to use 120 for hobby and maintenance is really super priceless. The Hobarts are priced reasonable. This should be some big incentive. A couple events and its paid for itself.

 

[sberry]

Its less than the cost of an old style AC machine today, dual voltage, a lot of power on 240 and DC to boot. Works with cord instead of lead, provides workside adjustment and fine tuning. Can run them from small generators.

 

[LG63]

I'm leaning toward the Hobart 210i. I don't see the value in paying the blue tax and I'm too cautious to go with a generic import so the Hobart seems like good middle ground. I'll probably wait until I have a project in the works so I can put it to use right away. Need to hurry up and sell my old Lincoln tombstone while it's still worth $80 on craigslist.

 

[plinker]

The way I read it from the welding forums when I bought mine was the inverter welder a kind of a throwaway item. It wouldnt hurt to check it out and see what parts prices are.

Hobart has a good warranty period which was a selling point to me. I was actually going to buy the AC/DC stickmate transformer machine that was 220AC/160DC (IIRC), but Airgas said they were discontinued. So thats why I have the 210i.

 

[Bert_]

I bought a Hobart 210i DC stickmate last fall, haven't used it a whole lot but seems easy to use. It's pretty tiny. Made in china (no suprise).

I'm not sure what differences there are between the Hobart and Miller, other then the paint on these particular machines.

I been eyeing an inverter for a while now and noticed the same thing. I am liking the sound of the Hobart VS off brands.

I want one for the portability, I could throw one in a truck by myself and carry it wherever on a job. I'm not a welder so it wouldn't get a ton of use but for the price it would be handier than borrowing an engine drive welder.

Still can't decide on the 160 or 210A model. I'm leaning towards the 160 since since I probably wouldn't use the extra capacity and the 160a can run on 120V for light duty if I needed it to. I don't want a 120v only machine.

 

[trackwelder]

I'm leaning toward the Hobart 210i. I don't see the value in paying the blue tax and I'm too cautious to go with a generic import so the Hobart seems like good middle ground. I'll probably wait until I have a project in the works so I can put it to use right away. Need to hurry up and sell my old Lincoln tombstone while it's still worth $80 on craigslist.

The 210i is a nice unit. A customer of mine has one and it burns 5/32 7018 like a champ.

 

[sberry]

I like the 120v. I had a bud borrow/rent an engine drive from me. It was kind of foolish, could have bought a small portable for the gas of driving back and forth. In the shop 120 isn't an issue, I still use my old ac/DC with leads, not a problem. Don't care about efficiency or local control or cord use.

 

[LG63]

Still can't decide on the 160 or 210A model. I'm leaning towards the 160 since since I probably wouldn't use the extra capacity and the 160a can run on 120V for light duty if I needed it to.

I was thinking 160 too as I only do light work but then I thought the 210 might be more durable since the components are made to handle the higher current. That said, I'm not going to agonize over the throw away nature of these things. If I get 10 projects out of it, that's about $40 per project which is a better cost per use than a few tools I have in my garage now.

 

[MJD1]

I bought an esab 161 about 5 years ago. Burnt a few hundred pounds of rod with it. I paid just over 400$ when I bought it, with a 3 year warranty. So that's about 40 cents a day to own if it crapped out at end of warranty. Only issues I had was the ground and stinger along with leads weren't the best. Replaced them with some existing 25' leads I had along with dinse cable adapters. Pretty hard to go wrong with the small inverter welders, altho they are pretty useless on 110 volt, as is any welder.

 

[Forney_Technical]

I could ask this on another forum but who has used cheap stick inverter welders. The cheapest I tried, 100$ Forney and is limited to 3/32 6011 or it overheats. I have a Maxstar, it works super. Anyone run the Everlast etc, maybe Longevity models and it lokks like DVI making them a 140 runs about 40$ more than economy 85A models.
I see the Klutch 120V,,,, Hobart should make an entry level inverter stick 120V. My Max never trips a breaker on 120 with 1/8 11 and 3/32 lo hy.
Beautiful for handrail etc and even light ga fab and erection work. I had to run a couple extra rods a while back, 3 extra freakin minutes, the rest of it all single pass fab with small electrodes was fine and even easier.

Hi, this is Gabby with Forney Technical Services. I can't pinpoint what machine you have. If you're having issues with your machine, you can contact our Customer Service team at 1-800-521-6038.