Ok, finally got around to doing a DIY. This is for the IR 231. It is the same for all intents and purposes to the 244.
I was in a big rush to do this, so don't take it as proper procedure. I didn't use the tools that I wanted to use, etc.
I have already removed the boot in this pic. When they get old, the plastic hardens and you have to cut it to remove it:
Three Torx screws hold the front and back halves together. I didn't have a deep Torx socket, so I used an Allen key:
Once those screws are out, the halves come apart:
The front half contains the hammer and anvil assembly, while the back half contains the rotor assembly:
I will start with the front half, which is easier and more straight-forward than the back. Use a thin edge of some sort to pry up the collar a little:
This will allow you to remove the gasket:
Pry up a little more to remove the collar:
The hammer and anvil assembly is now free to slide out of the housing:
To remove the hammers from the hammer frame, slide the pins out of the frame:
Clean all the parts of the dirt. I forgot to include the hammer in this pic:
The housing still has the front piece on it. It is unnecessary to remove it as part of an ordinary rebuild. When I did the 244, I removed it by driving it out with a 13/16 socket. Then I realized it was unnecessary as there is no way for dirt/grime to get in between the two pieces:
Put a light coat of grease on everything:
Reassemble the hammer assembly. I believe someone mentioned that the flat faces of the hammers face each other. I think these hammers looked the same on both sides. When I removed them ,the small IR logos were facing forwards so I replaced them the same way:
Stick the anvil in there:
And replace the assembly into the housing:
Now we turn to the back half:
Remove the washer and motor clamps:
We are now looking at the front rotor plate, which has the front bearing it it. We need to slide this out of the housing. I seem to recall this took a little banging on a wood surface, but nothing of the sort that I experienced during the next step:
Front plate removed. Note the guide pin, because it should remain there although it doesn't appear in later pictures. That pin goes through the front rotor plate, rotor housing, rear rotor plate, gasket, and finally into a blind hole in the rear of the gun housing. I think it's there to help keep everything in alignment:
Now we see the rotor and vanes:
Remove the vanes. You will need to rotate the rotor as you do this to move the to the bottom position:
Violence is about to ensue, so remove the trigger by using a punch to knock the trigger pin out of the handle:
The next step can be very difficult, and special care must be taken. If done improperly, you could break something.
The rotor housing is now a separate piece, not connected to anything. The rotor itself is still connected to the rear end plate, which cannot be seen in the back of the gun. Just like the front plate, it has to slide out of the gun housing. But if you don't do it perfectly evenly, it will jam.
To keep things straight, the rotor must be removed together with the rotor housing. Not only that, but the rotor housing must be in the exact position that you found it when you opened it. I.E., the holes must be in a straight line. If you remove the rotor housing by itself, you could put it back in any position, but it would not be guiding the rotor. The reason is that the widest part of the rotor housing goes into the narrowest area between the rotor and gun housing. Only in this position will the rotor housing keep the rotor straight. In the following pic, the guide pin was removed, the the rotor housing is actually rotated a little clockwise, but it was enough for me to remove the assembly.
I am including the next pic to show what you should try to avoid: Removing the rotor housing without the rotor:
This is more like it. To do this, I banged the gun down hard on a wood surface. Remember to try and keep the guide pin in there if possible. When the rotor assembly is flush with the face of the gun, you have to start hitting the gun only around the edges. I don't even want to say what I did (or destroyed) to get to this point.:
Finally, with the help of the vice grips, I was able to remove the rotor:
Rotor is connected to the rear plate, which has the rear bearing in it:
Remove the gasket:
E-clip on the rotor:
E-clip removed:
IIRC on the 244 the plate wasn't pressed onto the rotor shaft, but that was the case with this gun, so I had to pry it:
Plate with bearing:
I knocked the bearing out with the punch:
Time to open the rebuild kit:
Clean out the front and rear end plates:
Pack new bearings with grease:
Pop new bearings into plates. The bearings are different. The one with the wider outer race goes in front:
Before I reassembled that, I decided to do the reverse valve. Put the switch in the forward position, and use a vise grip to hold the reverse side. Then use an Allen key on the screw.
The knob and screw:
TO BE CONTINUED...
