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IR compressor installed and running!

evintho

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Finally got the SS5N5 mounted and up and running. I used the famed hockey puck mounting system. Sunk some 3/8"x5" concrete anchors in the pad, installed 4 NHL hockey pucks ($3 ea from sporting goods store), followed that with 3" fender washers, compressor feet, shock absorber bushings (the HELP section at local auto parts), 3/8" washers and nylon locknuts. It's firmly mounted with supreme vibration dampning! Added a drain valve extension also.

Hockeypuckmounts.jpg


Next, I installed an hourmeter. Cut a small hole in the pump mounting base so I could install it flush and wired it to the motor - 1 hot leg, 1 ground.

Hourmeter.jpg


Here it is all wired up and running. What do you guys use to connect from the outlet ball valve to the regulator. I just used some air hose. I'm sure there's something better. Suggestions please. I'm not running hard air lines throughout the shop. I only have a 20'x23' garage. A 50' air hose on a reel works for me. :beer:

Overallcompressorhookedup.jpg
 
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bmwpower

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You can use a hydraulic hose, a braided stainless line or a rubber hose... whatever works for you. As long as it can take the pressure and potential vibration, should be good enough.

Nice compressor.
 

SteveU

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Only thing I can see being an issue is water in your hose when it gets to be humid in the summer. Before I ran my air into the 45' of black pipe I had a 3/8" air hose plugged directly into the compressor & got water out of it each time I used it. I would get some metal pipe with drains at the bottom which will cool the air taking the moisture out or get a refrigerated dryer which will do the same thing. Nice job of mounting it, will keep that in mind for when mine finds a permanent place.:thumbup:
 

Charles (in GA)

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OK, I'm confused. What good does the shock rubber bushing do? It is on top. The compressor is sitting directly on the hocky puck (hard) and that is sitting on the floor. If the compressor rocks around while running, I cannot see the rubber shock bushings doing anything beyond helping to lift the hockey puck off the floor. You want something SOFT under the feet, not on top of them..

Charles
 

Major Ramifications

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Congratulations!
Very nice compressor.
You probably won't have any problems way over in California, but around here we have to use metal pipe to remove water from our compressed air. If you never get any water through the rubber line, you are set.

I have been guilty of this myself, but you are not supposed to wire the hourmeter so that it uses the ground as a neutral. I won't tell if you don't.

Enjoy!
 
OP
E

evintho

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Charles (in GA) said:
OK, I'm confused. What good does the shock rubber bushing do? It is on top.

Nothing really! It just looks cool! I don't know, Charles. I didn't really go into the physics of the whole thing. The compressor doesn't rock at all. It's very stable. I don't think it makes that much difference whether the rubber bushings are there or not!:beer:
 

wilbilt

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Major Ramifications said:
I have been guilty of this myself, but you are not supposed to wire the hourmeter so that it uses the ground as a neutral. I won't tell if you don't.

Yes, that can be hazardous. The equipment ground should be isolated back to the panel and should not be carrying any current.
 

the dude

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Major Ramifications said:
I have been guilty of this myself, but you are not supposed to wire the hourmeter so that it uses the ground as a neutral. I won't tell if you don't.

Enjoy!

How else do you wire a hour meter in? I think it's a great idea and I really like the above install, It is very clean.

EDIT: Thanks Wilbilt
 
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wilbilt

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bmwpower said:
So.... how do you wire it then?

The best way would be to use a 240V hour meter.

There are diagrams here, but the "2-wire 240V" diagram makes no sense, because in a 2-wire 240V circuit, there is no neutral.

It looks like he pulled power from the dryer outlet, which would typically have a 3-wire 240V circuit (2 hots and a neutral). He could pull a neutral from there for the Hobbs meter, but definitely not use it (the neutral) as the compressor ground. The concern is that you don't want the current running through the meter to be present on the metal parts of the compressor.
 

wilbilt

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the dude said:
I would assume you would run NMD-90 with three wires and a bonding wire???

wouldn't that work?

That's essentially what I did with mine. 30A 3-wire circuit + a ground. My compressor has a mag starter with a 120V coil, so the pressure switch operates on 120V to pull in the coil which then closes the contacts to the 240V motor.
I don't have an hour meter, but if I did, I could power it from the coil circuit.

The ground is separate, and serves to ground the equipment, conduit, etc.
 

RAYJAY

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the only thing different I would do is put in a drip leg after the brass valve so you could remove water from the line before you get it in your rubber hose

and P.S. my hour meter is hooked the same way

Jeff
 

RAYJAY

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wilbilt said:
Thrillseeker. :headshake :yikes:

ok if its wired wrong let's see a wire diagram hooking up the meter with a 3 wire system

I have black(110v) red(110v) and green(common) running compressor ,

the meter I have is

Non-Reset Model
The Redington Model 33 line of LCD counters provides a large display, 7mm high figures, in an eight digit counter. The counters are available in a variety of mountings: 2-hole rectangular, 3-hole round, flush-round and flush-rectangular. Voltage operating ranges are 10-277 VDC and 20-277VAC. All models are totally sealed from moisture and dirt and conform to NEMA 4 and 4X specifications when mounted with the optional gasket. Their rugged construction makes them ideal replacements for current electromechanical counters. Units have polarized LCD for high visibility in sunlight


http://redingtoncounters.thomasnet.com/Asset/P33CTR.pdf


meter runs off a internal battery so it uses no power from compressor


wilbilt said:
The best way would be to use a 240V hour meter

also note in red above mine is a 240 volt meter




this is how mine is hooked up

pg9_sma2.jpg


Single phase, 3 wire, 120/240V system: Connect any one power wire to one terminal and the neutral wire to the opposite terminal.



found it here
wilbilt said:
There are diagrams here,
 
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wilbilt

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Those diagrams are higly suspect. Note they show the same diagram for the 120V and 240V meters, but in the text on the 240V side, it says "do not connect the neutral wire to the meter". The diagram shows the neutral wire connected to the meter. :headscrat
If your meter is rated for up to 277VAC, and it has two wires, you can connect it to the two hot wires.

The point is that the neutral is not a ground. Yes, it is grounded at the main panel, but that is the only place is should be a "ground". If you are connecting anything from a hot lead to your compressor ground, you are energizing something you can come into contact with.
Ideally, that current will be shunted to ground through the panel bus connection, but what happens if you happen to become a better ground than the panel? Wet floor, sweat, bare feet, whatever.
 

wilbilt

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RAYJAY said:
was tried and does not work it need's a neutral to run meter

Jeff

Now that's interesting. What if you wanted to install your 240V hour meter on a piece of equipment wired for 2-wire 240V (i.e., no neutral)? Did any diagrams come with the meter?
 

RAYJAY

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wilbilt said:
Now that's interesting. What if you wanted to install your 240V hour meter on a piece of equipment wired for 2-wire 240V (i.e., no neutral)? Did any diagrams come with the meter?

buy a different meter that works on 2 wire system, been looking for the paper work that came with the meter I know it here some place:headscrat

Jeff
 
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