IR Compressor problem

[outsider347]

I have a IR 30T 2 stage compressor problem. The pressure regulator is set to operate 120 psi on , 160 psi off

The switch does not change at the high pressure (160 psi) , keeps running til the HP relief valve opens

If I turn the operating switch off at 170 psi, and back to the on position, the motor will remain off till the tank pressure goes to 120 psi, and the motor will come on to recharge the as normal, but does not turn off.

Suggestions appreciated

Tks

 

[vonhef]

Sounds like time for a new pressure switch. Good thing your pressure safety valve works!!!!


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[Bob C]

I have a IR 30T 2 stage compressor problem. The pressure regulator is set to operate 120 psi on , 160 psi off

The switch does not change at the high pressure (160 psi) , keeps running til the HP relief valve opens

If I turn the operating switch off at 170 psi, and back to the on position, the motor will remain off till the tank pressure goes to 120 psi, and the motor will come on to recharge the as normal, but does not turn off.

Suggestions appreciated

Tks

Normally I would tell you the contact points were arced together be it pressure switch or magnetic starter or both, but in THIS case I would say somehow your pressure switch is either set too high or it is jammed and not allowing the points to kick out. if the former, adjust it down, otherwise replace.

 

[outsider347]

Normally I would tell you the contact points were arced together be it pressure switch or magnetic starter or both, but in THIS case I would say somehow your pressure switch is either set too high or it is jammed and not allowing the points to kick out. if the former, adjust it down, otherwise replace.

I have the cover off and I can see the contact points working..opening & closing

Unless there is another set of contact points that I am not able to see

BTW If I tap the switch housing when the pressure reaches around 165 the contacts switch and the the motor stops

 

[smokem2020]

My pressure switch controls a large relay or starter. If you have one I'd look to see why it's not dropping out.

 

[outsider347]

What actually causes the pressure sw to change?
Seems like my sw is working correctly, when I change it manually with the on off lever, it works properly

There is a 1/8 copper line (tank pressure ??) to the switch that causes the sw to change. Is this a air pressure/mechanical operation

Im not sure how this works,to be able to figure this out

Tks Gents

 

[Durka]

I'd go with whats been posted above. Check the switch parts for corrosion as well.

 

[Durka]

What actually causes the pressure sw to change?

There's a set screw about dead center of the switch. It takes a security torque driver to adjust. You count turns right or left depending upon which way you want to go with the pressure. It is a 175 psi machine correct?

I'd look for a new switch. You can purchase adjustable replacements and non adjustable. -Yea, just an FYI.

 

[Bob C]

What actually causes the pressure sw to change?

There is a 1/8 copper line (tank pressure ??) to the switch that causes the sw to change. Is this a air pressure/mechanical operation

Im not sure how this works,to be able to figure this out

Tks Gents

The switch sees air pressure from the bottom where it threads into the tank. As the pressure rises in the tank, it pushes against the diaphragm in the switch. the diaphragm is forced against the spring seat and pushes against the springs until the spring pressure is overcome. The contacts then open. At that exact time when contacts open, a lever is tripped and forced against the unloader valve (Piece where copper tube is connected). This allows air in the copper tube, heads, intercooler, and discharge pipe
to be relieved so upon the next time the compressor has to start it is not starting under a load.

 

[outsider347]

The switch sees air pressure from the bottom where it threads into the tank. As the pressure rises in the tank, it pushes against the diaphragm in the switch. the diaphragm is forced against the spring seat and pushes against the springs until the spring pressure is overcome. The contacts then open. At that exact time when contacts open, a lever is tripped and forced against the unloader valve (Piece where copper tube is connected). This allows air in the copper tube, heads, intercooler, and discharge pipe
to be relieved so upon the next time the compressor has to start it is not starting under a load.

Iv never had this apart, and certainly not a pro, but seems to me that my sw is OK, but the mechanism that operates the "high pressure off" is not working correctly?????

So that is at the bottom of the sw assembly, that goes into the tank ?????
Would it be logical that that mechanism is sluggish or stuck???
Especially since when I tap on the sw assembly, the motor will shut off when it the sw reaches High pressure??

Thanks

 

[sberry]

Some basic trouble shooting here,,, it isn't shutting off, you tap on the switch and it works, even if I don't know a thing about it the odds and the low cost to replace a switch seem like a good bet.
If I was in a hurry, didn't have a spare, needed it would take the thing apart to see if a burr was hanging it up, an insect got in it etc.

 

[sberry]

Sounds like time for a new pressure switch. Good thing your pressure safety valve works!!!!


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My comp is 60 ft away behind a wall plus my office. I can just hear it run and I hear it in the shop and its not a problem but after so long I can tell how it feels. I cleaned up the contactor after a couple glitches over the years and fixed the pump but the other day it had a little sound wasn't right. I listened to it for a couple weeks, finally took a few minutes to R&R and isolate the motor, sure as poop. I fixed a few things on it and put it back,,, seems like double work but only a few minutes, a couple weeks later grab up my neighbor and we tear it out, 15$ for 2 brgs.
I don't always pay attn. so well but,,,,, each of these units needs the belts tightened a pinch at about 5 yrs and change the oil at the same time. In a DIY the switches often age out in some way before wear out.

 

[79firebird]

I have the cover off and I can see the contact points working..opening & closing

Unless there is another set of contact points that I am not able to see

BTW If I tap the switch housing when the pressure reaches around 165 the contacts switch and the the motor stops

There ya go presure switch replace it and i bet it will be fine. Ive had a new one that was bad out of the box.

 

[Bob C]

Iv never had this apart, and certainly not a pro, but seems to me that my sw is OK, but the mechanism that operates the "high pressure off" is not working correctly?????

So that is at the bottom of the sw assembly, that goes into the tank ?????
Would it be logical that that mechanism is sluggish or stuck???
Especially since when I tap on the sw assembly, the motor will shut off when it the sw reaches High pressure??

Thanks

I was explaining how it functioned per your question. don't take it apart. It is a major pain in the *** to try to reassemble. Buy another one and call it a day.

 

[Lassen Forge]

Don't like re-repeating the obvious, but I will add something - you're really lucky your relief valve has worked so far. If it ever takes the proverbial dump on you... Well, you don't want to be near that hand grenade. Unless you like wheelchairs, hospital beds, and losing the use of various appendages. An exploding tank is nothing to be near...

I usually don't repost youtube links, but we saw this one (all of 3 minutes) at our company's annual safety stand down... after seeing it, I s#!tcanned my rusty, old compressor can for a new one.

Replace the switch.

 

[Durka]

Dang, -guess my question was too difficult for him.

 

[outsider347]

switch ordered

..not difficult, redundant!!

 

[Durka]

switch ordered

..not difficult, redundant!!

Yea okay

Good Luck!

 

[RossABQ]

Just curious why you are running the tank up to 160? Not many tools need that much, and compressing air that high takes a lot of energy. That's really pushing the envelope on pressure ratings.

 

[vonhef]

Just curious why you are running the tank up to 160? Not many tools need that much, and compressing air that high takes a lot of energy. That's really pushing the envelope on pressure ratings.

Many air compressors are factory set at about 160.


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[Durka]

Just curious why you are running the tank up to 160? Not many tools need that much, and compressing air that high takes a lot of energy. That's really pushing the envelope on pressure ratings.

Doesn't really work that way. The higher the tank/header pressure, the more usable air you have at tool pressure, which SHOULD be regulated as close to the tool at possible.

Actually, that saves energy and compressor run time which is better all around as it reduces moisture within the system, both tank, inline filters and/or FRL's

My questions weren't answered by the OP, - and I'm certainly not going to look up his compressor online for something he could of easily answered vs ignored. At least he went with a new switch, - hard sayin which one though lol.

If he had a two stage, chances are, it can be set to 175 psi (which is normal, ideal and partially why 2 stage compressors exist), which would much better than 160. Hell, he couldn't even tell me what switch he had lol.

Oh well, it's all redundant now anyways...