IR T-30 model 234 connection question for copper fitting.

[whejdak]

This compressor has twin lungs (pistons) on it. It was missing the finned cooler that went in between the cylinder heads when I go it.
I bought a use one. It has a flared end on both sides and connects into the fitting that is in the head already.
My question is do I need to pipe dope that piece that pulls the flare tight against the mating fitting.
Or tape it
Or don't do anything just tighten it up.

 

[pcmeiners]

The intercooler should need nothing to seal the matting parts to the parts on the compressor. Since it is a used part I would use a small amount of pipe dope on the flare surfaces, a bit on the rear of the flare and on the threads. Teflon is not the best to use on compressors or hydraulics unless used carefully, with no chance of Teflon moving through the system.

 

[whejdak]

The intercooler should need nothing to seal the matting parts to the parts on the compressor. Since it is a used part I would use a small amount of pipe dope on the flare surfaces, a bit on the rear of the flare and on the threads. Teflon is not the best to use on compressors or hydraulics unless used carefully, with no chance of Teflon moving through the system.

Thanks. One of the flares has a little what I'd call a small ding. It's not bad, but it isn't perfect either. Enough to make me wonder about the pipe dope.
In addition that intercooler tube won't flex enough for me to connect on both pistons easily. I've got one side in but the other is slightly cocked and I can't get it treaded. I'm thinking that I might have to heat it up to get some flex in the tube. I worry about the tube splitting if I try to bend to get it to fit.

 

[pcmeiners]

Get it snugged up on one side, (still needing a half turn), with gloves, gently pull into alignment to the other connector. Perhaps 2 people, one aligning the other threading. With the use of pipe dope. Good luck

 

[metalmagpie]

Stone the ding gently.

 

[LopezBart]

In addition that intercooler tube won't flex enough for me to connect on both pistons easily. I've got one side in but the other is slightly cocked and I can't get it treaded. I'm thinking that I might have to heat it up to get some flex in the tube. I worry about the tube splitting if I try to bend to get it to fit.

Annealing work hardened copper does work; it tends to oxidize the copper somewhat; cleaning the inside afterwards is a good idea. If you have a oxy-fuel torch, a rich mixture helps to reduce the scaling. The tube will kink easily after annealing though.

 

[Monza Harry]

Flare nuts are "typically " a standard "fine thread", that would allow you to use a fine threaded bolt [tailer hitch ball +/-] as a handle to gently convince the tube into the place you desire. That "dent" in the one flare should deform to the fitting [if not huge or cracked], I dont like dope or tape on inverted flare fittings that isn'thow they work. A "drop" of air tool oil or similar to make the nut to tube (flare) and flare to fitting joints to slide. Harry

 

[whejdak]

Good suggestions. Thanks all.

 

[whejdak]

Yesterday, it was 70 and I was working on that Air Compressor again. Today is 15 and I am not working on it.
I finally got that intercooler copper pipe connected from head to head. It was so awkward and difficult to get on that I couldn't use any pipe dope on the flare fitting. Turned out that I didn't need it and that little ding is OK too. Once I got that connection, I couldn't help but want to try it out and see if my new motor and the pump would work. I changed the oil, it was black. $20 for 32oz. In addition I had to make a 240 connecting hose welder type. It had the wrong power cable on it. I first ran it up to 40 psi then 80 psi and listened for leaks. All good. So I turned the pressure switch down so it would trigger off sooner then the 175 psi. I needed to see that switch would work or not.
I turned it on and watched the tank rise from a good distance away. I wanted to watch the pressure gauge but I didn't want to be standing next to the tank as the pressure increase. At 120 it shut off. I drained the bottom of the tank slowly and at 80 psi it kicked in again. I am very happy with this $300 IR T-30 234 compressor. I still have one more test (hydro test) but that won't happen when it is 15 degrees out side.
I settled for 2 1/2 motor pulley to keep the RPM's in the range that IR told me to operate it in. It takes a while to get up to pressure, but I can't believe how quiet it is and how smooth it runs.

Once again, thanks all for the help and suggestions.

And now I have to go out and shovel snow.

 

[Monza Harry]

@whejdak never use Teflon tape or pipe dope on flare fittings, ever! Lubes need to be compatible with the contents of the tube/system! I said "a drop" of air tool oil, as it doesn't misbehave with air, now oxygen is a different animal. Glad you won this battle, I love my IR T-30 [234 pump as well I believe] quiet as you can't believe solid performance as well. The other thing in my jurisdiction a 5HP motor needs a magnetic starter and can not have a plug/receptacle connection. Seems curious to me as a welder plug is the same voltage and twice the amps, but is legal. Just something I felt I should share. Harry