Irwin Bolt-Grip = ****

[abvw]

I have four different kind of extractor in my box (GripTite, Turbosockets, HF extractors, and various spline and 12pt variant sockets), honestly they all work roughly the same, some better, some worse, all depends on how much contact you can get with the edges, and how well the sockets are seated.

You have to pound them on to work properly. Most of the time you're taking chances, nobody promised you that it WILL work, you merely have a better chance than not having one.

By the time you get the fastener cherry red with OA, you might as well blow it off with a few more squeeze of the trigger.

 

[cg81]

A trick I have used when they round something off it to hit the end of the bolt/stud with my blunt hammer bit in my air hammer to mushroom the end of the fastener. Then you find a different size twist socket, pound it on, and try again. It is all in your technique which only comes with experience. This type of sockets are lifesavers, but they do not work 100% of the time. If it is that rusty and seized in they may not work for your specific application, but that doesn't make them a bad tool. I have the cornwell set and many of mine are dull, but they still work.

 

[montanafordman]

I have used them with success when changing exhaust manifolds on a 99 f150 5.4. These motors had a problem with the studs that hold the manifold to the aluminum head actually rusting so badly they would break when heated up by the engine running then the manifold would warp. Anyway I was able to get all of the remaining bolts loose using an Irwin set, which saved me from having to pull the top of the motor apart.

Yeah I had the same problem with my 98 F150 4.6L I had 3 manifold studs break and wound up replacing both manifolds. I also had 3 manifold nuts that were so rusted that they rounded when I put a socket on them and tried to get them off. I also used the IRWIN bolt grips on them and the first one it rounded it off even worse and I had to eventually cut that one off, and the other two nuts the Bolt grip took them out. So I was 2 for 3. My first impression was they ****, and after getting the other two out they graduated to "passable - I'll keep them."

 

[pauls_workshop]

If the bolt is rusted in place, no extractor will remove them. Sounds to me like a case of using the wrong tool for the job.

x2. Hey Coral, I think this is the case here. If you needed to use 500 ft lb to loosen those, that is just going to exceed any bolt out type design. Just can't expect these things to work at the 500 ft lb level. Rusted on bolts that bad are in need of a different method entirely.

I recently picked up the 2 Craftsman sets as I didn't have these before in any brand. I haven't used them yet, but did notice they were made in USA on my sets, so happy to get those.

Question too: What is COO on the Irwin set? US or China now? Are the differences here whether good or bad related to COO? Or perhaps some are harder than others. Process controls poor on them and inconsistent? - Paul

 

[ChevyEFI]

they work great on knock sensor remnants if one that's too small is pounded on.

They have to fit tight as in need to be tapped on so they bite.

I had to use a small one and really hammer it on there.

Worked great for me, both the Craftsman labled and Irwin labled tools.

Slap them with a ball pien hammer and go at it.

If they don't grip, you are using the wrong size extractor, or maybe lack manual dexterity skills (???)

Hope this helps someone. When you put one on that seems just right, it is probably too big by a couple sizes.

 

[My Old Tools]

I have that exact set. They work great for me. Couldn't live without them. Can't see a scratch on them after use but they chew the hell out of the bolt head. They grip like the hounds of hell. I have no idea what they will do on a super hard head that will likely chip off on the corners. Sounds like the wrong tool for that.

 

[mperry985]

Just get the Snap on set....have had mine for years and never failed...of course some may not justify the price but I found them worth it...that's just my opinion

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[HaroRider]

I got the SK set and they are super nice, but even those wont remove the fastener if its rusted in place..

 

[pantera84]

The term, "grade" is used for SAE fasteners and only goes up to 8. "Class" is used for metric fasteners and the only 10 anything in that scale is 10.9 which is equivalent to a grade 8 SAE.

I thought it stopped at Grade 8 also.

But apparently there is a Grade 9. I found that out today at work. One of my mechanics ordered the wrong bolts from Mcmaster Carr. They would probably chew up extractors pretty good.

 

[panknuckshovel]

I thought it stopped at Grade 8 also.

But apparently there is a Grade 9. I found that out today at work. One of my mechanics ordered the wrong bolts from Mcmaster Carr. They would probably chew up extractors pretty good.

Some things go one more.

 

[kythri]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/NutsandBolts/Nuts&Bolts_signed.pdf

 

[csargents1546]

I have had similar experience typically with rust belt bolts. My solution in a bunch of Pb blaster, blue wrench and blue point turbo sockets. 98 percent of the time this works. The others involve cutting the head of and drilling out the bolts. Time consuming but better than buying a new part.

 

[zcbauer89]

I've never had an issue with that style of removal sockets. I've used them quite a bit over the years.

 

[tim.bergfeld]

If you are removing head bolts those can be pretty tough sometimes even with a good head on them. mine work just fine never have had a problem. I put it on tap it a few times with a hammer to seat it and then twist and out they come.

 

[jmontoya]

They saved the day for me once on a rounded lug nut.