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Irwin *****. I need a high quality tap holder

Bubba Fett

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Joined
Jun 11, 2018
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1,516
Location
Eastern NC
Here is my Irwin.
Contact Irwin. Even if you plan on getting another set, they should replace this, and they need to see these pictures. They need to know that they (or more likely their suppliers) are selling a defective and potentially dangerous product.

Without feedback companies just assume everything is hunky-dory.
 
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shawhite

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May 28, 2014
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1,519
Contact Irwin. Even if you plan on getting another set, they should replace this, and they need to see these pictures. They need to know that they (or more likely their suppliers) are selling a defective and potentially dangerous product.

Without feedback companies just assume everything is hunky-dory.
I sent it to Irwin and they replaced it. New one came in a box Made in China on the side. That is when I replaced it with a starrett.
 

NoahG

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Joined
Feb 24, 2013
Messages
1,055
Location
Detroit, MI
I'd go with a German one for this. The Starrett is really nice but the price is ridiculous. The Exact 04965 is 29€ and seems to be made from sintered powder (didn't know they make something like that with such processes, I know they make carbide tools this way). There's also a 28€ version from malleable iron, and a 13€ zinc casting which is probably similar to your broken Irwin.

But personally I most commonly use these:
1500003086_1.jpg

It's called the Kugelwindeisen (ball tap wrench?). I do not know if they are known in the US. There are 5 standard sizes, every one has 4 different holes to cover all the standard taps. For what I need I usually only use the size 1 and size 2 - and together with the size three that's probably 99% of my needs, those are ~ 15€ each if you buy the steel versions. They are compact and non-adjustable. Since it isn't very complex to make them from steel, and due to their geometry, I believe they are much stronger. The ones I own must be over 50 years old. They don't slacken like a cheap adjustable does...


Same Orion brand also sells a forged steel adjustable tap wrench for 22€. I'm quite confident this tool will perform for a long time just as well as the Starrett...
That thing looks great! Yup, never seen them state side, but now of course it’s something else I need…
 

RoninB4

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Jul 22, 2020
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3,552
Location
Under My House
Here is my Irwin.
-Not to knock the OP but those photos are a textbook example of what happens when you stress something made from zinc die-cast, also sometimes called "pot metal". Zinc die-cast works just fine for carburetor or transmission bodies but is absolute sh*t for any sort of structural integrity on a tool like this.

:oops:that's some porous looking metal, looks like a sponge. How they got the finish to be so smooth and polished when the inside looks like that is quite an accomplishment.
-Yes it is porous, that's part of the telltale sign of a cast metal. Zinc alloys are brought to a molten state, then pushed under high pressure into the mold. Zinc die-casting is unparalleled in high production for producing a near net-shape that holds detail and thin sections while being relatively low cost to manufacture. The smooth surfaces that appear to be polished are a result of the mold surfaces being polished, the molten zinc alloy mimics those mold surfaces. While ideal for high production components, zinc alloys are a poor material for most anything subjected to stress. Manufacturers of cheap tools will use zinc alloys because it's cheaper than steel and estimate that most buyers of cheap tools won't know until after the purchase.

Learn to recognize when something is likely made from this material. If it appears to be beefy and has a dull, silvery (can also be painted to disguise it) finish it's likely a zinc alloy. If you can gouge it with a house key it's zinc die-cast. If you can see a parting line, result from the two mold halves, and it's inexpensive it's a zinc alloy. The easiest way to identify it is if it's non-magnetic, unless it's SS or one of the red metals. Plain low carbon steel is just fine for a tap/die holder, I've made a few and they hold up under industrial use in the shop.

Cheap tools made from the zinc alloys will self destruct, don't buy any more of these.
 

tarbellb

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Joined
Apr 17, 2011
Messages
5,757
Location
Oregon
Sterrett if you got the cash

Union Butterfield's are very nice as well

and I love my ratcheting Gear Wrench set
 

WoodsTruck

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Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
1,023
For small taps I like a T handle style so I can alternate cutting and chip breakage. I do this one handed and needed a way to put more pressure on the center of the tap and only use the cross bar to twist the tap. I printed a slip on cap so it rests in the palm of my hand better.
 

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lbhsbz

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Joined
Jan 13, 2010
Messages
1,174
Location
Long Beach CA
I haven't broken any irwin tap handles but the fixed jaws fall out and get lost. I hate them. I probably have 3 or 4 with no fixed jaw.
 

mvdavid

Active member
Joined
Sep 27, 2014
Messages
26
If you have Gearwrench taps they won't work in the Lisle tap sockets. the square drive on the tap is much smaller than the tap shank so the shank hits before the square portion engages. I also found them to dull more quickly than a quality tap, at least when using dark cutting oil.
 

jonesg

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Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
1,698
Location
northern Maine/
-Read my earlier post above. Yes it's a zinc die-cast alloy also sometimes called pot metal. Learn to recognize this **** and avoid it for tools/tooling.
I can usually tell by the weight if I handle it, always seems full of some sort of gas.
 

NoahG

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Joined
Feb 24, 2013
Messages
1,055
Location
Detroit, MI
I'd go with a German one for this. The Starrett is really nice but the price is ridiculous. The Exact 04965 is 29€ and seems to be made from sintered powder (didn't know they make something like that with such processes, I know they make carbide tools this way). There's also a 28€ version from malleable iron, and a 13€ zinc casting which is probably similar to your broken Irwin.

But personally I most commonly use these:
1500003086_1.jpg

It's called the Kugelwindeisen (ball tap wrench?). I do not know if they are known in the US. There are 5 standard sizes, every one has 4 different holes to cover all the standard taps. For what I need I usually only use the size 1 and size 2 - and together with the size three that's probably 99% of my needs, those are ~ 15€ each if you buy the steel versions. They are compact and non-adjustable. Since it isn't very complex to make them from steel, and due to their geometry, I believe they are much stronger. The ones I own must be over 50 years old. They don't slacken like a cheap adjustable does...


Same Orion brand also sells a forged steel adjustable tap wrench for 22€. I'm quite confident this tool will perform for a long time just as well as the Starrett...
So I’ve been obsessed with these ball style tap holders since you posted them. I’m going to be in Germany in a couple weeks and would love to find a set while im there. Are these the kind of thing I could find at a hardware store or would I want to order them and have them delivered somewhere?
 

lund

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Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
768
Location
Michigan
We have the Gearwrench ones that come as a pass through ratchet handle and a tap holder. They work well if you aren't abusive and I really like the ratcheting aspect.

1685495107201.png
There is a problem with this system any buyer should be aware of: the ratchet is switchable forward or backward, but not locked setting. So when tapping, you continuously switch the directional lever while going forward and reverse to grind up chips. Most ratcheting tap holders (Starrett etc) have a neutral locked setting and is fine. This is a severe design error on this model. it is a shame, since otherwise the system is well put together and functional.
 
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whateg01

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Mar 13, 2006
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11,286
Location
doo dah, kansas, usa
There is a problem with this system any buyer should be aware of: the ratchet is switchable forward or backward, but not locked setting. So when tapping, you continuously switch the directional lever while going forward and reverse to grind up chips. Most ratcheting tap holders (Starrett etc) have a neutral locked setting and is fine. This is a severe design error on this model. it is a shame, since otherwise the system is well put together and functional.
Sounds like it would work fine with spiral point or spiral flute taps though so maybe not a design flaw but certainly a design limitation
 

lund

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Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
768
Location
Michigan
Sounds like it would work fine with spiral point or spiral flute taps though so maybe not a design flaw but certainly a design limitation
Pretty restrictive for a manual tap handle if so. The taps gearwrench sells with it are regular also. So in that context, it seems a significant blunder with an otherwise nice tool. The issue makes it frustrating to use in spite of being well made.
 

Steve_P

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Joined
Sep 15, 2010
Messages
5,184
ebay. used. greenfield, COLUMBIA (I love mine), starrett.

I have a few of the sliding T-handle style by Greenfield; they're 40+ years old, so they should be the "good stuff". But I absolutely hate them; they loosen their grip on the tap during use, and when you unthread the tap, the tap then falls out of it. I don't know if all Greenfields do this, but the ones I have do; they use a different, less complex and cheaper, clamping design than Starrett. Because of this, I bought new Starretts; they have the best clamping design and do not lose their grip on the tap, which is why they're worth the crazy price IMO. Maybe Columbia uses a similar clamping design like Starrett, but the Greenfields I have don't.
 

whateg01

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Joined
Mar 13, 2006
Messages
11,286
Location
doo dah, kansas, usa
I have a few of the sliding T-handle style by Greenfield; they're 40+ years old, so they should be the "good stuff". But I absolutely hate them; they loosen their grip on the tap during use, and when you unthread the tap, the tap then falls out of it. I don't know if all Greenfields do this, but the ones I have do; they use a different, less complex and cheaper, clamping design than Starrett. Because of this, I bought new Starretts; they have the best clamping design and do not lose their grip on the tap, which is why they're worth the crazy price IMO. Maybe Columbia uses a similar clamping design like Starrett, but the Greenfields I have don't.
My enco one does that. My starrett does not. The only difference really is the starrett has the jaws as part of the body where the enco has a pair of jaws held together but pushed apart with a spring and the threaded sleeve you tighten it with holds it all contained. Of my smaller "regular" tap handles, my starrett is the only one that doesn't loosen also. The bigger ones that are two halves where the handles both screw inward to grip the tap don't loosen either, but are of a different style.
 

Steve_P

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Joined
Sep 15, 2010
Messages
5,184
My enco one does that. My starrett does not. The only difference really is the starrett has the jaws as part of the body where the enco has a pair of jaws held together but pushed apart with a spring and the threaded sleeve you tighten it with holds it all contained. Of my smaller "regular" tap handles, my starrett is the only one that doesn't loosen also. The bigger ones that are two halves where the handles both screw inward to grip the tap don't loosen either, but are of a different style.

I think you have the descriptions opposite. Starrett has two independent jaws, that you can remove, connected by a U-shaped spring. The cheap ones use a male part, connected to the handle, with a split external conical design, and the internal portion of this holds the tap; the part you tighten with your hand is a female internally tapered conical sleeve that tightens onto the male to squeeze the tap. This just doesn't work well IME.
 

whateg01

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Mar 13, 2006
Messages
11,286
Location
doo dah, kansas, usa
I was wrong about the one I thought was starrett. It's a no name that works great.
20231123_203016.jpg

The one I hate using, but I have to because I don't have another of this style that fits 1/4" taps, is a general that I am sure I bought from Enco back in the day. It won't hold a tap tight to save its life.
20231123_202939.jpg

I also have a kobalt that came in a set of taps that works ok but feels super crunchy.
20231123_203107.jpg
 

isb cornbinder

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Joined
Nov 3, 2010
Messages
7,073
Location
Pacific South West, BC, Canada
I bought two sizes of ratcheting tap wrenches at Princess Auto, in Canada. Harbour Freight sell the same units. I have had my tap wrenches for decades. Still working well.
 
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