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Is a 5 jaw gear puller available?

James_B

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Jun 24, 2013
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674
Location
Nova Scotia, Canada (started in Brisbane, Australi
Here's my dilemma.

I have a 2003 Land Rover Discovery, and Land Rovers with alloy wheels are notorious for the wheels growing onto the centre locating boss on the hubs. Even after treating the hubs with an anti sieze compound, I've been known to spend an inordinate amount of time with a club hammer and a wooden drift progressively driving the wheel off the hub ... and this was at home where I had all the tools. I'd hate to have to remove a wheel on the side of the road when dealing with a flat tire. People on Land Rover forums talk about loosening the wheel nuts a few turns and driving around for a few days until it frees itself, but this isn't really a practical option when you're incapacitated on the side of the road.

I discovered that a 6 inch 3 jaw gear puller will just clamp onto the centre section of the alloy wheels and with the plastic wheel centre cap removed, you can push against the end of the axle and get the wheel off. This makes the task relatively simple, but it's a poor fit on a 10 spoke wheel that has pairs of spokes close together and is effectively a 5 spoke wheel, often resulting in some damage to the alloy wheels.

I was thinking that either a 5 jaw puller, or modifying the centre spider on my 3 jaw to bring 2 legs closer together and change the angles between the jaws from 120/120/120 to 144/144/72, would do the trick.

Before I attack my spare 3 jaw puller, I thought I'd see if anybody knew of a source of 5 jaw 6 inch pullers.
 
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James_B

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Jun 24, 2013
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674
Location
Nova Scotia, Canada (started in Brisbane, Australi
Hi
there is a 2 jaw puller that may work ???????? :dunno:
jeff
I borrowed and tried a 2 jaw puller. The claw on a 6 inch puller will just fit between the pairs of close together close spokes (a claw from an 8 inch puller won't fit between the spokes without grinding). Unfortunately, the 2 jaw puller ended up far less stable than the badly fitting 3 jaw puller.


You can see the way the spokes are arranged in this photo I took last week when I was using a breaker bar and a 4:1 torque multiplier to loosen the hub nut prior to placing the vehicle on axle stands so I could replace the hub/bearing assembly ... ignore all the brake dust.

I've had suggestions regarding the use of Kleen Wheels Wheel Mates (or similar) that are designed to fit between the hub and wheel to prevent the wheel growing onto the hub face. They are useless on a Land Rover as it's the protruding centre flange on the hub that locates the wheel centre that causes the problems.
 

ChevyEFI

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Sep 2, 2012
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8,761
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Loosen the nuts, drive down a dry street and yank the wheel port and starboard if it's stuck.

Sand the wheel inner a bit.

Use anti-sieze every time it's rotated.

It's maintenance that really needs to be done with alloys on some vehicles, whether you have the tool to fix it or not. A custom puller hub can sure be made, but it would cost what a whole truckload of anti-sieze would cost. And you're just going to rake your wheels with puller jaws ultimately.
 

JamieK

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Aug 13, 2009
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1,760
Location
Winston-Salem, NC
Go to Lowes/Home Depot and get a post jack. Adjust it so you can brace the bottom of it against the opposite wheel that is still bolted on, and the other end against the wheel you're trying to remove. As you screw it outward, it should push the stuck wheel off the hub.

31WVnVr4RgL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
 

slickgt1

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Oct 11, 2010
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1,674
Seriously?

Loosen all the bolts. Do not jack up car. Take 3 steps back. Swift kick to he top of the wheel with your heel. Your welcome.
 

firebox40dash5

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Mar 19, 2012
Messages
4,185
Seriously?

Loosen all the bolts. Do not jack up car. Take 3 steps back. Swift kick to he top of the wheel with your heel. Your welcome.

Or jack it up and then mule-kick it. When that doesn't work, I honestly give the inner surface a good hit with a 3-pounder. Hasn't failed me yet, nor messed up a rim. Then again, I've never worked on a Rover product.
 
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scarney1988

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May 13, 2013
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508
Run flats:dunno: ???

3m copper anti sieze on sanded hubs and wheel hubs have never failed me (North east US for climate reference).

Is it feasible to sand the wheel inner hub and treat it with a paint/primer/sealer of some kind which could help prevent this reoccurring issue?

Either way, good luck.

Sean
 
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James_B

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Jun 24, 2013
Messages
674
Location
Nova Scotia, Canada (started in Brisbane, Australi
Seriously?

Loosen all the bolts. Do not jack up car. Take 3 steps back. Swift kick to he top of the wheel with your heel. Your welcome.
I have tried that with a home brew wooden mallet (18" x 6" diameter hardwood head with sledge hammer handle fitted). Did not budge. Tried the same thing from underneath the car hitting the inside of the rim with the mallet. Same result.
 
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James_B

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Joined
Jun 24, 2013
Messages
674
Location
Nova Scotia, Canada (started in Brisbane, Australi
Or jack it up and then mule-kick it. When that doesn't work, I honestly give the inner surface a good hit with a 3-pounder. Hasn't failed me yet, nor messed up a rim. Then again, I've never worked on a Rover product.
Worked around the inside of the rim first the wooden mallet mentioned above, then with a 3 pound dead-blow hammer. When both of those didn't work, I switched to a 3 pound club hammer using a small block of hardwood as a "no mark" interface. Still no joy.
 
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James_B

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Joined
Jun 24, 2013
Messages
674
Location
Nova Scotia, Canada (started in Brisbane, Australi
Run flats:dunno: ???

3m copper anti sieze on sanded hubs and wheel hubs have never failed me (North east US for climate reference).

Is it feasible to sand the wheel inner hub and treat it with a paint/primer/sealer of some kind which could help prevent this reoccurring issue?

Either way, good luck.

Sean
Cleaned the hub with a wire brush, worked on the wheel centre with a wire brush and then a dremel, and applied copper anti-sieze. Didn't help.

I last had the RH front wheel off in late February. Cleaned the hub and wheel centre, but couldn't find the anti-seize compound as it was still packed away after our move in October. Last week, I needed the 3 jaw puller to get the wheel off.
 

98sierra

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Jul 28, 2013
Messages
150
All you have to do is take a long pry bar and wedge it between lower control arm/ball joint and wheel and "pop" it. Done it many times always easier than a hammer.
 

Packard V8

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Mar 16, 2009
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7,380
Location
Spokane, WA
Having to haul sledges, mauls, five-jawed pullers, long pry bars wouldn't work for me. Nor would me/wife/loved ones be going out onto the highways and byways of the busy/lonely world in a vehicle on which a wheel can't be removed if the tire went flat.

Rotary wire brush, grinder, sander, antisieze; whatever it takes but old Rover wouldn't be leaving the driveway until I knew all four could be removed any time by any driver. Your opinions and decisions may vary.
 

Provincial

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Sep 21, 2011
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Location
Near Salem, OR
I have an old 5-jaw puller that I bought at an auction 30 years ago. It is made to attach to the lug studs on an old tapered-axle auto, so the end of each jaw has a foot with a hole for the lug nut to bear. The main beam is sort of donut shaped, like a flange with a ring around it. The jaws can be moved anywhere around this ring.

If you could find one of these you could make adapters to attach to your wheels. Perhaps a crossbar on a threaded rod to use the original holes in the puller arms and bear against the back of the wheel spokes.

Search the internet for "hub puller" and look for images.

Here is a photo of an OTC 3-jaw version of the same thing:
 

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