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Is heat in the garage causing damage?

MagicMarker

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The drywall board tape and mud is literally falling off/ peeling away at the ceiling seams. In the winter, the garage is great b/c the cars heat up the space... not so much in the summer. It becomes an oven when two cars are in there after work.

There is attic access over the garage which I haven't even looked at yet since we closed on the house last October. So not sure if it's insulated. BTW, the house was built in 69.

What can be done as I'll eventually correct all the drywall issues, but I don't want it all to fail again due to heat.



 
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ripperd

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Is there primer or paint over the mud? If you don't paint over it the mud will re-absorb humidity from the air and slowly fail.
 

mobiledynamics

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In my previous house, ours was not finished for quite awhile. The rock was mudded with no coating on top. It did not exhibit these issues. Any chance you're getting expansion issues and or the mud was applied ~properly~ under the tape with poor adhesion...

I can't fathom that it would reabsorb *that much* humidity to fail a proper taped joint
 

CNGsaves

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Poor taping job. Remove the loose stuff and do it correctly.

^ ^ ^ This. Same thing happening in my garage that is bare sheetrock with taped seams. Prior owner did a few shortcuts (like no paint), but at least there is insulation behind the sheetrock !! ;)

I'll need to get "learned up" on mudding/taping when I get around to fixing up walls for paint.
 

mobiledynamics

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^ ^ ^ This. Same thing happening in my garage that is bare sheetrock with taped seams. Prior owner did a few shortcuts (like no paint), but at least there is insulation behind the sheetrock !! ;)

I'll need to get "learned up" on mudding/taping when I get around to fixing up walls for paint.


Less is more....a season veteran can mud with minimal sanding only on the last coat. Don't go crazy mudding only having to sand it off...progressive steps when mudding !
 
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MagicMarker

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Is there primer or paint over the mud? If you don't paint over it the mud will re-absorb humidity from the air and slowly fail.

No paint on the ceiling at all. Just mud and tape.

The ceilings are probably around 14'+ high so I may farm out the prep and paint.. Unless I buy a really good ladder to reach that high.

Anyone have any recommendations on how to efficiently mud/tape and paint ceilings that high?
 

pablo94sc

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This explains why my small repair of my laundry room ceiling has the tape pealing - didn't think I'd need to paint right away. Ooops.
 
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wantacoe

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I taped my garage about 20 years ago and don't have a problem with it. But I have had trouble with the floors this year because of the humidity.
 

readhead

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If humidity was the problem then every commercial building and garage that has been fire taped would have the tape laying on the floor.

There is no hidden mystery here. It was just a crappy job. Clean it up, tape it and move on.
 

MoparTrucks

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Sorry no pictures, but I think you guys will get the idea...

The drywall board tape and mud is literally falling off/ peeling away at the ceiling seams. In the winter, the garage is great b/c the cars heat up the space... not so much in the summer. It becomes an oven when two cars are in there after work.

There is attic access over the garage which I haven't even looked at yet since we closed on the house last October. So not sure if it's insulated. BTW, the house was built in 69.

What can be done as I'll eventually correct all the drywall issues, but I don't want it all to fail again due to heat.
:headscrat
 

marctheprop

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New Kent , Va
I'm assuming there are no water stains-so no leak in the roof. You can rent a rolling scaffold (or a scissor-lift) instead of crawling up and down a ladder but its tough to do if there are tools/cars/stuff in the space. I think this is one of those times when you bite the bullet and hire someone. A competent sheetrock man will do a better job faster (and cheaper) than you would think.
 

Radix2

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There are two types of mud - the premixed stuff and the setting type. The premixed will dissolve in water or humidity - the setting type is a plaster that will not soften after it has hardened.
 

srmofo

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Less is more....a season veteran can mud with minimal sanding only on the last coat. Don't go crazy mudding only having to sand it off...progressive steps when mudding !

Yup took me years to figure that out. Finally watched a few videos and got myself straightened out. Id rather take 5 times longer to do the job because I have to wait for the coats to dry than to sand it off.
 

ripperd

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In my previous house, ours was not finished for quite awhile. The rock was mudded with no coating on top. It did not exhibit these issues. Any chance you're getting expansion issues and or the mud was applied ~properly~ under the tape with poor adhesion...

I can't fathom that it would reabsorb *that much* humidity to fail a proper taped joint

It depends on what time frame he's talking about. Over the course of 1 year, yeah not going to do anything. But leave it that way 10 years, yup! Especially here in MN with our big seasonal changes.
 

ripperd

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There are two types of mud - the premixed stuff and the setting type. The premixed will dissolve in water or humidity - the setting type is a plaster that will not soften after it has hardened.

Also, this!!! I think commercially the setting type is used.
 

mobiledynamics

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Plaster is not a commercial product...
There is all types of mud. Premixed, hot mud, etc. Some IMO actually crack LESS as it tends to shrink better uniformally. Others set faster (as long as you have used them within the proper manuf. depth) within reason. It may set faster, but long term observations....the mud with more ~glue~ tends to crack less....

I've never seen uncoated mud re-absorb to the point where it becomes soft but that's not to say it can't.

I still think it's just poor adhesion on the original tape job...
 

99LeCouch

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Rochester, NY
Sounds like a junky mud job originally. Had the same thing happen in my garage. There was very little mud under the tape. I'm re-doing it slowly.
 
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