Luckydevil
Well-known member
I left the bottom drain valve open overnight and a little rusty water came out. Can I clean the tank with some sort of solution, or is there anything I can do about this?
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Is it possible to clean out an air compressor tank?
- Thread starter Luckydevil
- Start date
Major Ramifications
Well-known member
I sure wouldn't worry about a little rusty water, as the tank walls are thick and you would wear out several pumps and motors before the tank came close to getting thin from rust. At my old job, I would empty a 5 gallon bucket full of rusty water each week during the summer, and that was 15 years ago, and that old Craftsman compressor is still running fine.
If it really bothers you, check into some fuel tank cleaner and sealer chemicals used to clean, de-rust and seal old automotive fuel tanks. I'm sure Eastwood has stuff like that.
If it really bothers you, check into some fuel tank cleaner and sealer chemicals used to clean, de-rust and seal old automotive fuel tanks. I'm sure Eastwood has stuff like that.
OP
Luckydevil
Well-known member
My only concern was that if I ever wainted to paint with the compressor, would that effect it or would some in-line filters fix it?
They all do this. I believe just getting a filter will solve your problem. A water trap one so it catches all the moisture. I don't think there will be rust in the air, although I'm sure someone will come up with an answer to that.
Major Ramifications
Well-known member
Use a water trap and a coalescing filter when you paint, and then one of those little disposables at the gun, and no rust will get through.
Wile1Coyote
Well-known member
Yep you need to run a filter for this very reason, you can't ever escape the rust but you can minimize it by opening your drain**** on the tank each time you are done using your compressor. I saw a Ball**** valve conversion somehwere recently. I need to look into doing that on mine that little threaded thing is a PITA.
240kid
Member
i dont think i would ever try to put any solutions into my compressor, who knows what they could end up doing long term...
Hey Lucky,
If you want to keep the moisture to a min. Then you need to drain the tank every day. The place to connect your line to the compressor is as high on the tank as possible do not connect to the bottom that is for draining water only.
The quality of the air you need is dependant on what you are doing. You can filter the air to very clean levels. Filters are the way to do this. The first filter off of the compressor should be a " filtered centrifugal seperator" this will remove a good amount of moisture that is still in the tank that did not condense and drop to the bottom. The next is a series of particulate filters that can remove particles in various degrees of microns. How tight you want the restriction to be is as needed 10 micron is probabally a good start. This will be good for most shop tools ect. To paint you need to go even lower and add another finer filter, top of my head would be a 1 micron filter after the 10. Next is an "Oil removal filter"
This will remove oil carry over from your compressor.
You can go even further with the quality if needed depending on the quality of air required for your project.
One thing to remember is don't skip steps in the filtration order. If you just put a Oil removal filter on without the others it will plug up very quickly.
If your tired of reading this I can get a good filter plan for you if you know what level of clean air you need. There is no need to over filter shop air. So you can have a setup with your finer filters for painting only .
If you want to keep the moisture to a min. Then you need to drain the tank every day. The place to connect your line to the compressor is as high on the tank as possible do not connect to the bottom that is for draining water only.
The quality of the air you need is dependant on what you are doing. You can filter the air to very clean levels. Filters are the way to do this. The first filter off of the compressor should be a " filtered centrifugal seperator" this will remove a good amount of moisture that is still in the tank that did not condense and drop to the bottom. The next is a series of particulate filters that can remove particles in various degrees of microns. How tight you want the restriction to be is as needed 10 micron is probabally a good start. This will be good for most shop tools ect. To paint you need to go even lower and add another finer filter, top of my head would be a 1 micron filter after the 10. Next is an "Oil removal filter"
This will remove oil carry over from your compressor.
You can go even further with the quality if needed depending on the quality of air required for your project.
One thing to remember is don't skip steps in the filtration order. If you just put a Oil removal filter on without the others it will plug up very quickly.
If your tired of reading this I can get a good filter plan for you if you know what level of clean air you need. There is no need to over filter shop air. So you can have a setup with your finer filters for painting only .
Wile1Coyote
Well-known member
Oh Man what would you expect to pay for the three levels of filters you outlined above? I have been planning to get some better filters but am very confused about the huge disparity in cost. Seems like air filters run anywhere from $25 to $200 and they all claim to do the same thing. Currently I have no plans to run a paint gun at least not on anything approaching a regular basis. I suspect I could just run an inline filter for painting for the small amount that I might do. On the other hand I suspect I might be very wrong in that assumption. I won't ever paint a car but might take a try at some suspension parts or something. Have to admit painting with air is a bit intimidating to me. HELP! Thanks in advance.
The cost per filter is decided by size and filter element material. The finner filters cost more.
If your air system is 3/4" then I would use 3/4"in and out sized holes. I have been away from the compressor bizz for awhile, but give me a little time to check who makes what and I will get back on with it
If your air system is 3/4" then I would use 3/4"in and out sized holes. I have been away from the compressor bizz for awhile, but give me a little time to check who makes what and I will get back on with it
BetterDays
Well-known member
Wile1Coyote said:Yep you need to run a filter for this very reason, you can't ever escape the rust but you can minimize it by opening your drain**** on the tank each time you are done using your compressor. I saw a Ball**** valve conversion somehwere recently. I need to look into doing that on mine that little threaded thing is a PITA.
It is on Hammerzone.com
I saw the same thing today and it made me think.. on a weekend, nonetheless...
tonydanzah
Well-known member
interesting
alex71
Well-known member
oh really?