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Is it worth it? Any regrets?

cgv69

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Boone Co., KY
So I'm going to be buying a new (to me) house soon which will decent garage and I've always wanted one of those pretty garages like I've seen hear with an epoxy coated floor and color originated paint theme, etc.

I know if I'm going to do that, the best time would be before I move in so I've been reading a lot of the thread on this forum and looking at a lot of the recommended products, procedures, etc. and have come to the following conclusions...

1. If I'm going to do it, stick with the industrial level products discussed here as opposed to some of the lower grade stuff sold at home stores.

2. Prep is key (just like with any type of finishing) and in the case of a concrete shop/garage floor, that means grinding and probably acid washing?

3. Even if I but a great product and do everything right, there is some small percentage of a chance I may still have issues and if I do, it will be a royal PITA to fix or undo?

4. To do a ~450 sq/ft floor with a quality product and top coating along with the associated costs (grinder rental, rollers, etc.) I'm probably looking at around $1k?

That's where I start thinking, as much as I'd like to have a nice pretty garage floor that will stay nice and new looking, I don't think I want it that badly! :eyecrazy:

Human nature being what it is, I'm doubt anyone who's already spent the money will admit it wasn't worth it so let me ask this...

How many of you have been where I am now, decided against spending the money but now regret it and wish that they had?
 
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Armorpoxy

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Hi,
Our www.armorcladepoxy.com kit for a 2 car garage including primer, 100% solids high build epoxy and 2 part military grade topcoat would run a bit over $600 w/ GJ discount, not $1,000.
 

cash68

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1. If I'm going to do it, stick with the industrial level products discussed here as opposed to some of the lower grade stuff sold at home stores.

2. Prep is key (just like with any type of finishing) and in the case of a concrete shop/garage floor, that means grinding and probably acid washing?

3. Even if I but a great product and do everything right, there is some small percentage of a chance I may still have issues and if I do, it will be a royal PITA to fix or undo?

4. To do a ~450 sq/ft floor with a quality product and top coating along with the associated costs (grinder rental, rollers, etc.) I'm probably looking at around $1k?


Questions for you, why do you want a pretty garage? Do you actually wrench? If you wrench, I would think you would understand the benefits; easier cleanup, better lighting, less dusting, etc.

1. RockSolid is decent, and at big box. Read up on it, and compare prices to options listed here.

2. Grind it. If you grind, do NOT acid wash, it is unnecessary and leftover acid can screw up the coating. You can rent a machine for maybe $200-300 and DIY, or hire it out. I had people shotblast my floor, grind it, put down a skim coat to fill in the spalling, and then regrind and vacuum everything for $900. IMHO it was worth the money, because it was done in one day.

3. Don't screw up. The coatings are very strong, and if you need to start over you will need to regrind.

4. I spent $900 on grinding/floor prep, and $400 on rock solid coating. It's a 450 sq ft garage.

For me, because I work on things, it is worth it. If you're just wanting a showroom where things look pretty, I don't see how it's worth it since you won't be spending any time in there.
 

ducksface

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Oct 25, 2012
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I'll admit it.
Drag one bad cabinet leg across it and see why.
Yes, I could be more careful.

That said:
If you don't drag rear ends from under piss you off type jobs, do your epoxy.
By 'do' I mean hire it out so you have a warranty on the prep and work.
 

Eslader

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Feb 27, 2013
Messages
674
I'm in both camps. I both decided against doing the floor and regretted it, and then had the floor done. I still regret it because prices have gone up, and it was $800 more than the first estimate I got years ago, so my delay cost me money.

I wanted an epoxy floor from day 1, but had other things I wanted to spend that kind of coin on first. That was a mistake, because the floor already had some spalling and one small chunk missing right under one of the roller doors. In the years since I moved in, all that got worse. The chunk became a big triangular hole which had to be patched, and ended up costing me more money. The floor looked like **** and was continuing to deteriorate, so I definitely regretted not having the coating.


Before:

floorpre_zpsmkcqblsx.jpeg


After (hadn't finished moving everything back in, hence the mess):

floorws_zps1fi8px0k.jpeg


Closeup:

floorcu_zpse1vkmt0u.jpeg


All in all, I'd do it again. I'm very happy with the way the floor looks, and I really like being able to clean up spills by just wiping them up instead of spreading oil dri and then sweeping and still having a stain afterward. I'm also glad that there won't be any more deterioration of the concrete from salt water dripping off the cars. And since the floor has a lifetime warranty, I'm not terribly worried about it failing - not that I think it will as I know people with the same floor who've had it for years with no problems.
 

Onewolf

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East Central Florida
Worth it? Absolutely. I got three estimates from local contractors to do 1200 sq ft (grind, prime, epoxy, heavy flake, urethane top) and they were all $7000-$7600. I ended up buying supplies from https://www.garageflooringllc.com/ and renting the grinder from Home Depot and doing it myself for about $2000.

IMG_2585.JPG


IMG_2587.JPG
 

Shea

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If you have a fairly standard concrete slab that is in good shape, you can rent a floor maintainer with a Diamabrush concrete prep attachment for around $100. As someone mentioned, acid etching is not necessary when grinding. Some of the vendors here include the necessary supplies for application with their kits as well.

The key before making your decision is to give these vendors a call and talk with them about your project. They want you to be successful and they will make some good recommendations based on your project. Their customer service is good and most people discover when talking with them that they learn about something they have not though of as well.
 

vavet

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Ashland, VA
We had the builder's painter do it when we built our house about 2 years ago. Their upcharge was $750. I naively thought it would be a profesisonal level product at that price. I later found out it was a Sherwin-Williams product. It is far from scuff resistant and the application was subpar BOTH times they did it. I was left with a bunch of pock marks or halos after the first application. The SW rep told me it was from outgassing of the concrete. SW and the painter agreed to redo it with SW providing additional product and the painter providing labor. He showed up with one person. They hand-scuffed the floor and reapplied the product. Now the new product was on top of the old product, the pock marks/halos were still visible, and the color chips from the first coat were visible, but painted gray. The builder/painter/SW agreed to redo it. SW provided the grinder and the product and the painter again provided substandard labor. After less than 8 weeks, the coating started peeling up around the place where the rear wheels of my wife's Sonata end up when her car is in the garage. If it was the front wheels, I would've said, "well, maybe she's turning the wheel without the tires rolling"...but no.

After all the hassle of moving everything to one side of the garage, taking time off work to babysit the painter, moving everything to the other side so the painter could do the second side, I asked the builder to refund the $750 we paid when it peeled up. He refunded it. I know it will cost me more than $750 to have the floor ground or blasted again, so it's going to stay as-is for now. I really just didn't want to deal with the builder or the painter again.
 
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cgv69

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Questions for you, why do you want a pretty garage? Do you actually wrench? If you wrench, I would think you would understand the benefits; easier cleanup, better lighting, less dusting, etc.
Do I rebuild engines or restore cars? No, I'm a typical weekend warrior and do fluid changes, tire rotations, brake jobs, etc. but lets keep this real... it doesn't matter if we're talking about a basic garage to park my daily driver in or full time professional shop, coating the shop floor is all about the visual appeal... PERIOD

Sure a coated floor has some minor advantages that a person could attempt to justify the cost with. They are typically easier clean up spill from and to tend to brighten up the work environment but none of that is going to make you a better mechanic or improve the results of your work in any significant way.

I have worked in shops with coated floors and shops without so I can say from first hand experience that a non coated floor works just as well as a nicely coated floor. The coated floor is easier to clean but mainly just creates a more visually appealing and pleasant work environment for OCD people like me who appreciate a work environment that is as visually appealing as whatever is it they make or maintain within that shop.

I'm certainly not knocking any one who has or hasn't coated their shop floor and very well may still do mine but I am having a hard time justifying the cost.
 
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cgv69

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Boone Co., KY
I'm in both camps. I both decided against doing the floor and regretted it, and then had the floor done. I still regret it because prices have gone up, and it was $800 more than the first estimate I got years ago, so my delay cost me money.

I wanted an epoxy floor from day 1, but had other things I wanted to spend that kind of coin on first. That was a mistake, because the floor already had some spalling and one small chunk missing right under one of the roller doors. In the years since I moved in, all that got worse. The chunk became a big triangular hole which had to be patched, and ended up costing me more money. The floor looked like **** and was continuing to deteriorate, so I definitely regretted not having the coating.


Before:

floorpre_zpsmkcqblsx.jpeg


After (hadn't finished moving everything back in, hence the mess):

floorws_zps1fi8px0k.jpeg


Closeup:

floorcu_zpse1vkmt0u.jpeg


All in all, I'd do it again. I'm very happy with the way the floor looks, and I really like being able to clean up spills by just wiping them up instead of spreading oil dri and then sweeping and still having a stain afterward. I'm also glad that there won't be any more deterioration of the concrete from salt water dripping off the cars. And since the floor has a lifetime warranty, I'm not terribly worried about it failing - not that I think it will as I know people with the same floor who've had it for years with no problems.

The After results do look nice and I do realize that if I'm going to do it, now is the time (before moving in). Thanks for sharing your experience.

PS - I do have a question about your floor. The epoxy floors I have experience with didn't have the flakes which I understand are both visual and help make the floor less slick?

But when I see close ups of it, the flakes seem to create a lot of little peaks and valleys which look uncomfortable if you were down on your knees or back working on something? Also seems like sweeping would be little harder/less effective?
 
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cgv69

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Boone Co., KY
If you have a fairly standard concrete slab that is in good shape, you can rent a floor maintainer with a Diamabrush concrete prep attachment for around $100. As someone mentioned, acid etching is not necessary when grinding. Some of the vendors here include the necessary supplies for application with their kits as well.

The key before making your decision is to give these vendors a call and talk with them about your project. They want you to be successful and they will make some good recommendations based on your project. Their customer service is good and most people discover when talking with them that they learn about something they have not though of as well.
Shea. Thanks for the info and input. I do plan on contacting a few of you because not only do I have the garage but also the basement that will be a woodworking shop. For the basement I only plan to do an acid stain/clearcoat.
 

Eslader

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Feb 27, 2013
Messages
674
PS - I do have a question about your floor. The epoxy floors I have experience with didn't have the flakes which I understand are both visual and help make the floor less slick?

But when I see close ups of it, the flakes seem to create a lot of little peaks and valleys which look uncomfortable if you were down on your knees or back working on something? Also seems like sweeping would be little harder/less effective?

The flakes don't really do much for traction with the system I had done - it's got 2 full coats on top of the flakes, so that smooths things out quite a bit. But they put texturizers in the top coat for traction so we wouldn't fall when it's wet, and... We certainly won't! I might actually have gone with a lower level of traction - there were something like 9 different levels to choose from.

As long as you're wearing clothes that cover your knees, you won't have discomfort on the floor. If you're wearing shorts, it might be a little scratchy, but no worse than kneeling on concrete that has a little sand on it. Things roll across it just fine.

The only trouble I've had sweeping was right after it was done and I had been going crazy with the label printer. It outputs strips of paper that have a slick backing. I was tossing the backings on the floor planning to sweep them up later with the push broom, and when I did they kept getting stopped by the floor texture. That was a somewhat unusual case though. I've since swept up sawdust, dirt, a fertilizer spill, and a bunch of leaves that blew in on a windy day and had no problems.
 
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cgv69

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The flakes don't really do much for traction with the system I had done - it's got 2 full coats on top of the flakes, so that smooths things out quite a bit. But they put texturizers in the top coat for traction so we wouldn't fall when it's wet, and... We certainly won't! I might actually have gone with a lower level of traction - there were something like 9 different levels to choose from.

As long as you're wearing clothes that cover your knees, you won't have discomfort on the floor. If you're wearing shorts, it might be a little scratchy, but no worse than kneeling on concrete that has a little sand on it. Things roll across it just fine.

The only trouble I've had sweeping was right after it was done and I had been going crazy with the label printer. It outputs strips of paper that have a slick backing. I was tossing the backings on the floor planning to sweep them up later with the push broom, and when I did they kept getting stopped by the floor texture. That was a somewhat unusual case though. I've since swept up sawdust, dirt, a fertilizer spill, and a bunch of leaves that blew in on a windy day and had no problems.
Thank you for sharing your experience.

My brain is telling me it's not worth the time and expense but my ****/OCD nature is telling me I better do it or I'll be sorry!
 

vavet

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Ashland, VA
DO IT! Even with my terrible experience with my builder and painter, I'm glad it's done. At some point I'll redo it.
Take your time, do your research, spend the money for the good stuff, and do it right the first time. I am doubtful there is anything about it that is going to be impossible for an amateur. A pro might be faster, but my experience with most things like this is that I, as an amateur, can do just as good of a job (if not better) if I take my time. The pros will often be in such a hurry that they don't care. They just want to get it do, collect their check, and move to the next job.
 

cash68

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Milwaukee, WI
Do I rebuild engines or restore cars? No, I'm a typical weekend warrior and do fluid changes, tire rotations, brake jobs, etc. but lets keep this real... it doesn't matter if we're talking about a basic garage to park my daily driver in or full time professional shop, coating the shop floor is all about the visual appeal... PERIOD

Sure a coated floor has some minor advantages that a person could attempt to justify the cost with. They are typically easier clean up spill from and to tend to brighten up the work environment but none of that is going to make you a better mechanic or improve the results of your work in any significant way.

I have worked in shops with coated floors and shops without so I can say from first hand experience that a non coated floor works just as well as a nicely coated floor. The coated floor is easier to clean but mainly just creates a more visually appealing and pleasant work environment for OCD people like me who appreciate a work environment that is as visually appealing as whatever is it they make or maintain within that shop.

I'm certainly not knocking any one who has or hasn't coated their shop floor and very well may still do mine but I am having a hard time justifying the cost.

I've worked in both. To me, it's worth it. Cleaning up a coated floor saves SO MUCH TIME. No more kitty litter, degreaser, scrubbing, rinsing, etc. And the lighting is so much better when the floor is marginally reflective.

I'm planning on rebuilding my 911 engine this winter, so this was part of the plan to make that easier and more enjoyable.

If you primarily just want it for looks and low dusting, maybe a cheaper big box epoxy kit would be fine. I installed on in a relatives house, it held up okay for 8 years, but that was not a working environment. It was just drive in, park, drive out.
 
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Toomanytools?

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Washington
Thank you for sharing your experience.

My brain is telling me it's not worth the time and expense but my ****/OCD nature is telling me I better do it or I'll be sorry!

CGV69, I'm in the same boat "OCD" and a new 3000sqft shop I'm looking at what products to use 2000sq is vehicle storage the other 1000 is a wood shop. The wood shop I would like epoxy, the other just a sealed surface.
Only you can answer the question if it's worth it, Armorpoxy said about $600 for product and if you rent a grinder maybe $200 so under a $1000 for the garage. I say do it you will have buyers remorse for a few days ( I always do) but in the long run you will like the way it looks. If you use that garage for 10 years your only out about $100 bucks a year. Think about it you probably spend more on cell phones, and cable or satellite bills in 3 months than the floor. But again it is just a garage. Good Luck:beer:
 

OzarkMan

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Ozark Missouri
I like pretty garages too. Hence I went a keep it simple approach. Eventually I will have cabinets and such, but the house reno took all funds. Garage is a new add on as well.


 

Wileel

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Panama City FL
Worth it! Im with you and wanted a nice looking shop for ever, so the first priority after moving into the new house was a shop remodel. It was work to do, but totally worth will probably make your buddies jealous. Feed your OCD and do it...lol

Mine was flake to rejection with two coats of clear and have to say the texture is perfect, just enough so its not slick but no way it will scratch or even feel rough.

View media item 69537
 

RPH

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Clean it, acid stain. Put a good clear sealer over it and it will look nice. But will be a working garage. I used Ghostshield products on mine. Nothing sticks to it.
 

CJDave

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Fairfield, Ohio
cgv69, I live in Fairfield, Ohio. CVG is about 35 minutes from my house. My garage is not a palace but I would be glad to show it off to you if you want. Send me a PM if you are interested. We might be able to chat with my neighbor about his epoxy floor too. CJDave.
 
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cgv69

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Thanks for the replies guys and the nice offer CJDave. I think I'm going to go for it (cause I know I will regret it later of I don't). I just have to figure out which product to go with? Busy right now with all the headaches with the closing of the deal on the house so I haven't been able to research all of the options as much as I like to do.

MesaAZguy - Where did you get those mats that you have in the individual bays? Have you had them long enough yet to say how well they hold up?
 

Lassen Forge

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NOW is the time to do it. Make sure the floor is clean clean clean when you get it coated, and once it's done. never look back! But once you start filling it with your stuff, you won't ever have the chance to have it as good as it is before you move in.

You can see the pix for yourself... look at them, then think... Do I want stained and ugly (and light-stealing) concrete, or THIS?

The worst part is deciding what finish you want. But worth it???

I can't (My shop has a wood floor with a sheet concrete (& asbestos - s-h-h-h-h!!) section in the "fire" areas), but if I could, it would have already been done!
 

Hilltopmasonry

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I like pretty garages too. Hence I went a keep it simple approach. Eventually I will have cabinets and such, but the house reno took all funds. Garage is a new add on as well.





Nice garage! What size is it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

EricVonHa

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Eastern Pa
I'd say do it without a doubt. You already have the itch. Go for It!

One of the things that rarely is discussed is the possibility of broadcasting quartz into the epoxy solids (rather than flake).

Armorpoxy was super helpful in product specifications with me. They assisted with product election for a high-end commercial-grade full broadcast floor. Everything I needed showed up on a massive pallet.

The process is labor intensive and it can be diy. Though, study the heck out of everything before proceeding.

I put down 1000 pounds of a "blue granite" quartz mix onto 2000sq/ft. I decided to make the black component of the quartz a "tea" size (larger particle) to make the black contrast a bit against the blue/white/gray mix.

Many many gallons of the Armorpoxy commercial grade clear was laid on top then. When the floor is clean (and it cleans easily) it reflects light like a mirror.

The key is all in the prep. My project was completed 18 months ago and it is still good as new. We've done quite a few heavy hitter projects in the main lift bay and it is still good as new. The floors withstands direct concussive banging or pressure very well.

I'm thrilled with the results and people complement it all of the time. It looks like the fanciest granite kitchen counter top you've ever seen only in blue quartz!
 

EricVonHa

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My main point above is that the quartz adds a bit of a traction component. With as much clear as I laid onto Mine, the floor will still get slippery if fluid gets on the floor. Though, it is a bit safer than flake or no quartz.

If you go with the quartz it does not need to be a full "double broadcast" installation. It is possible to do a single or .5.

Buy the quartz locally. A good pool refinished company or local concrete supply company can get you pointed in the right direction.

In the Philly region, Estes products has a wholesaler that mixes the quartz for any disired color or texture.

I tell you what, after going through all of the research and learning all about this stuff, I look at concrete floor coatings everywhere we go and notice the attention to detail and so forth. Prior to doing my garage, I had no idea what it took to install a commercial grade floor. It is badass, though. Don't think I posted any photos here but I should!

Armorpoxy is the way to go If you truly want an extremely durable super high-end finish. If you search my name you'll find some discussion about chemical resistance of the epoxy and clearcoat as well. Armorpoxy has a whitepaper written about it where the other vendors will say "oh well, you shouldn't use chemical cleaners".

Also look up Viper commercial floor scrubber/cleaners.. The scrubbers are meant to be used with cleaning chemicals to clean any floor and especially epoxy coated floors! I had one of their self-propelled units for quite some time and it worked well. Mild chemicals did not effect the floor. I ended up selling the unit because it was just too big. It was tough to maneuver around all the stuff in my garage.

Anyhow, probably a bit of tmi. Though, while making a sizable investment it is important to learn everything including some of the periphery stuff. Hope this helps.
 
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Armorpoxy

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Thank you for the kind comments.

Quartz floors while wonderful, super durable, and naturally non skid are at the higher priced end of what many of our clients want to pay. Can you send us some pics of your floor? We are always looking for nice pics for our gallery.
 

ptgarcia

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Alta Loma, CA
While I love the look it wasn't worth the expense when I moved into my current house. Prices started at $6 per square foot and increased by quite a bit for rough floors like I have, and I needed the $5000+ for other things. If I had tons of money I would do it, but pretty garage floors are low on my priority list.

Let me also add that my friend has his done and has had nothing but problems with it flaking/peeling. Don't know what product he used or any other details other than it was installed by a "professional," so be sure to prep thoroughly or vet your installer when installing.
 
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1LargeDog

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Jacksonville FL
So I'm going to be buying a new (to me) house soon which will decent garage and I've always wanted one of those pretty garages like I've seen hear with an epoxy coated floor and color originated paint theme, etc.

I know if I'm going to do that, the best time would be before I move in so I've been reading a lot of the thread on this forum and looking at a lot of the recommended products, procedures, etc. and have come to the following conclusions...

1. If I'm going to do it, stick with the industrial level products discussed here as opposed to some of the lower grade stuff sold at home stores.

2. Prep is key (just like with any type of finishing) and in the case of a concrete shop/garage floor, that means grinding and probably acid washing?

3. Even if I but a great product and do everything right, there is some small percentage of a chance I may still have issues and if I do, it will be a royal PITA to fix or undo?

4. To do a ~450 sq/ft floor with a quality product and top coating along with the associated costs (grinder rental, rollers, etc.) I'm probably looking at around $1k?

That's where I start thinking, as much as I'd like to have a nice pretty garage floor that will stay nice and new looking, I don't think I want it that badly! :eyecrazy:

Human nature being what it is, I'm doubt anyone who's already spent the money will admit it wasn't worth it so let me ask this...

How many of you have been where I am now, decided against spending the money but now regret it and wish that they had?

Whether you do it yourself or hire a pro, you won't regret it. Just did mine last week. Hired an epoxy flooring pro. Money well spent. Love the new floor.
 

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