Is my Goodman Control Board bad?

[Rocky Rotella]

Ok, guys. I need your help again.

You may recall this thread from a couple of weeks back.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=375414

I have a Goodman GMS80453ANA that's mounted horizontally in the rafters of my 780 sq/ft detached garage. I though I had that no-heat issue solved, but went back out there yesterday morning and found that shop temp had fallen below the thermostat setting of 60 degrees F.

I climbed up there and found that the cycle would start as normal and the hot surface igniter glowed bright for 4 to 7 seconds, but there was no call for gas (no flame). It would repeat this three times before the status light would flash once indicating a lockout condition. I reset the unit and found the issue recurring.

I used my voltmeter to check for AC current at the gas valve. It's believe it's a simple two-wire switch. I found no current jump to 24V (or so) while the hot surface igniter was cycling.

Considering that I had an intermittent operation last winter and now intermittent operation this year with what I though was a real pressure switch issue and now a gas valve issue, it is time to simply replace the control board? Or is there something else I should be checking first?

 

[naturalgas]

Check for 24v at board and then follow the path to see where you are losing it.


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[Rocky Rotella]

Thanks for the response.

I was up there about an hour ago trying to chase voltage and miraculously it started working again. WTF?!

 

[Done That]

Give the ignitor a real close look for a possible hairline crack. They can glow without getting to high enough ignition temp or have a dead spot. BTW the lockout condition is not a hard lockout, usually after a hour it auto resets and tries again for three times.

 

[Climatecreator]

Pressure switch.

Sometimes they get blocked so sometimes they work and other times not.

They will keep the gas valve from opening.

To verify. After the inducer starts jump the pressure switch out. If that helps it to fire when you're having an issue you've narrowed it down and need to make sure something isn't blocking the tubes or chimney. Also you could pull flue and see if inducer is putting out or maybe vanes have rotted causing less flow. Be sure flue is not obstructed.



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[Rocky Rotella]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

24 hours later and the furnace seems to be working fine. It didn't work too terribly hard, however. It topped out at 68 degrees in Omaha today!

I found a wiring schematic online and will use that to trace the high and low voltage circuits when/if it happens again.

I will post again if the condition reoccurs and I find the issue.

 

[southalabama]

I'm a parts puller. Freaks dad out. I try to isolate problem and get it working. He wants to find the problem. He went thru electronics school with the Air Force and 30 years with ma bell. He's qualified. I'm not.

Had a similar problem. I replaced the controller with one on amazon. Reconnected and everything worked. Seemed to me that was the easiest thing to replace.

Good luck.

 

[creativecars]

I have a similar problem but, not to steal your thread Rocky, I know my board is bad as there is a wire that got hot enough to melt and come loose from the board.

This model is GKS90703BXAD

Can anyone tell me what might have caused this to happen. I am now 600 miles away and did not get a good picture of the offending spot and wire. It is a wire with a spade terminal. I assume one of the wires from the top (upper right, but the white connector) of Rocky's picture.

 

[naturalgas]

I have a similar problem but, not to steal your thread Rocky, I know my board is bad as there is a wire that got hot enough to melt and come loose from the board.

This model is GKS90703BXAD

Can anyone tell me what might have caused this to happen. I am now 600 miles away and did not get a good picture of the offending spot and wire. It is a wire with a spade terminal. I assume one of the wires from the top (upper right, but the white connector) of Rocky's picture.

White wires to board are neutrals. Could have been loose and overheat. Elec storm will sometimes affect board.


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[creativecars]

White wires to board are neutrals. Could have been loose and overheat. Elec storm will sometimes affect board.


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Thanks for the info. The house is getting renovated at this time so no one is living there. I came in to do some work and found it this way. I saw the damage and took a picture of the serial number and the basic board to get a new one ordered and neglected to really look to diagnose anything else. When I go back is there anything else I should look for? Are these units known for this? Where is the best place to purchase a new board?

 

[rlitman]

Give the ignitor a real close look for a possible hairline crack. They can glow without getting to high enough ignition temp or have a dead spot. BTW the lockout condition is not a hard lockout, usually after a hour it auto resets and tries again for three times.

+1 Hot surface igniters work as a resistor. Over time, they start to break down. Even without a crack, they erode on the surface (this is not always easily visible), and the resistance slowly rises. Eventually, the current flowing through the igniter will be insufficient, and the board will think that it has failed, even though it will appear to be glowing. This is a safety feature by design, and this sort of failure will start out by giving you intermittent operation.

If this were in a range, I'd suggest you swap the broiler igniter with the oven igniter, as they're usually the same part, and one is usually used much more than the other.

https://hvacpartsoutlet.com/pages/how-to-troubleshoot-a-hot-surface-ignitor-hsi

Anyway, measure the resistance of the igniter. The site above says it should be 40-90 ohms, with anything higher being failed. Other sources say it should be 40-75 ohms, but this is all assuming your igniter is 120V (24V igniters would have much lower resistance).

The next thing I'd try, is to place a mechanic's stethoscope on the relay that supplies power to the gas valve. If it's clicking, but no power is making it there (as said above), it could be a failure of the relay, but I don't think that's all that likely (being a moving part, the relay is the most likely part on the board to have failed, and also one of the easiest to repair, but igniters have a MUCH higher failure rate).

 

[naturalgas]

Just google for board. buy the least expensive . Connelly’s NJ is a parts warehouse can get most anything overnight. Charles Connelly’s #1-888-423-2230. Ask for Dave or Gerry model and serial number and they will help you out


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[Climatecreator]

Thanks for the info. The house is getting renovated at this time so no one is living there. I came in to do some work and found it this way. I saw the damage and took a picture of the serial number and the basic board to get a new one ordered and neglected to really look to diagnose anything else. When I go back is there anything else I should look for? Are these units known for this? Where is the best place to purchase a new board?

Sometimes wires get loose. It's one the points on a maintenance check and the reason we do it.

Also electrical surges will do it too.

How about Amazon? Best to deal with on returns etc.

http://amzn.to/2Atl3pb

Good luck.

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[creativecars]

I know power has went out several times and some pretty big thunder storms also. I will check more when I get back to it.

Besides the board, would you replace the spade connectors also?

 

[Climatecreator]

Definitely

AND cut the wires back a bit to get away from the burnt ends.

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[peter2772000]

I had the same problem on my propane-powered furnace. Was ready to connect my U-tube to see if it was the gas valve that needed replacing.

On a hunch, I checked to see if our gas range was operating normally.
Turned out the propane supplier hadn't come by on his scheduled day, we were outta gas

 

[bonneyman]

If you at all suspect the hot surface ignitor, replace it. Not that expensive.

And upgrade it with the newer silicon nitride ignitors. They are much more resistant to breaking than the old silicon carbide ignitors.

Intermittent problems are some of the most difficult ones to find. You need some one local who is experienced and methodical to check it out.

 

[eddieK]

Ok, guys. I need your help again.

You may recall this thread from a couple of weeks back.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=375414

I have a Goodman GMS80453ANA that's mounted horizontally in the rafters of my 780 sq/ft detached garage. I though I had that no-heat issue solved, but went back out there yesterday morning and found that shop temp had fallen below the thermostat setting of 60 degrees F.

I climbed up there and found that the cycle would start as normal and the hot surface igniter glowed bright for 4 to 7 seconds, but there was no call for gas (no flame). It would repeat this three times before the status light would flash once indicating a lockout condition. I reset the unit and found the issue recurring.

I used my voltmeter to check for AC current at the gas valve. It's believe it's a simple two-wire switch. I found no current jump to 24V (or so) while the hot surface igniter was cycling.

Considering that I had an intermittent operation last winter and now intermittent operation this year with what I though was a real pressure switch issue and now a gas valve issue, it is time to simply replace the control board? Or is there something else I should be checking first?

Goodman boards fail in this manner often, another sign is erratic fan ops.

 

[eddieK]

I have a similar problem but, not to steal your thread Rocky, I know my board is bad as there is a wire that got hot enough to melt and come loose from the board.

This model is GKS90703BXAD

Can anyone tell me what might have caused this to happen. I am now 600 miles away and did not get a good picture of the offending spot and wire. It is a wire with a spade terminal. I assume one of the wires from the top (upper right, but the white connector) of Rocky's picture.

Loose connection.

 

[Rocky Rotella]

Just an update to anyone else that may come across it in the future using the search feature.

Toward the end of last winter season, the furnace began acting up. It kept showing three-blinks or "Pressure Switch Stuck Open" code. I triple checked the pressure switch and it seemed to be working as it should so I purchased a new control board from my local Johnstone supply house for $60 in anticipation for this winter season.

It made it all the way down to 13 degrees here in Omaha on Friday night/Saturday morning, so a couple of day earlier I turned the furnace on to check its functionality. The same sequence occurred several times. After replacing the control board a few nights ago, the unit seems to work just fine now. I'm crossing my fingers that the repair is permanent!

 

[Jim greengo]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

24 hours later and the furnace seems to be working fine. It didn't work too terribly hard, however. It topped out at 68 degrees in Omaha today!

I found a wiring schematic online and will use that to trace the high and low voltage circuits when/if it happens again.

I will post again if the condition reoccurs and I find the issue.

What part of Omaha are you in?

 

[Rocky Rotella]

120 and Dodge area. You?

 

[Jim greengo]

38 harrison, Bellevue side. I do a lot of work in Omaha though.