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Is my LP regulator size adequate?

i4ni

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I need to do some re-sizing on the LP lines in my house to accomodate more BTU demand. My current 2nd stage LP regulator is for 3/4" pipe. I need to up-grade to 1 1/4" pipe on the down stream side of the regulator for first 8 feet to meet the new BTU requirement. According to the LP service guy the 3/4" regulator will be capable of handling the increased volume of adding the 1 1/4" pipe. He said the 3/4" regulator is capable of suppling over 900,000 BTU's and I only need 340,000 max. My question is if that's the case what difference does it make if I leave the current 10 inches of 3/4" pipe that comes out of the regulator and through wall and then jump up in size? Unless I'm overlooking something I don't see the need to make a bigger hole in the wall. I'm hoping a plumber or HVAC expert will weigh in. Thanks
 
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i4ni

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Thanks,I used a sizing chart to determine my pipe size requirements. The regulator size compatibility is my concern
 

PoorUB

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A bit more information would help. A quick sctch with some distances and BTU load would help.

Most LPG reulaors are well oversised for most residential applications. Without the specific manufacturer and model of regulator anything said here is a guess.

There are many ways to handle this depending on where the line size is an issue.

You can run all the LPG lines in your home at 2 PSI and install an inches regulator at each appliance.

You can also use a 10 PSI from the tank to the house, then put a 2 PSI or and inches regulator at the house

I assume the pipe in question is the first few feet inside the house? Then run the 2 PSI regulator at the house and add regulators down line as needed, either for each appliance, or get past the big load and on regulator for the rest.

You could also run 2PSI to the worst of the BTU load and install one inches regulator to handle the rest of the house.
 
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i4ni

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I've figured out my line sizing requirements using the longest length method and the proper chart for my application: 11 inch water column, 1/2" wc drop etc. The point I'm trying to get at is if the regulator has 3/4" ports and is perfectly capable of suppling enough volume for the 1 1/4" pipe what difference does it make if I use the 10 inch long 3/4" pipe ****** that comes out of the 3/4" regulator and through the wall already? I can't see it making a nickles worth of difference which side of the wall I jump up to 1 1/4" pipe. I do realise I may have to adjust the regulator to get the correct water column with the size increase.
 

gmcgeo

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Need more info, how long is the line at the furthest appliance. Model of second stage regulator, then total BTU of the house
 

gmcgeo

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Generally appliances will use 10" water column at the manifold, you will want 11 to 12 at the reg
 

PoorUB

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I've figured out my line sizing requirements using the longest length method and the proper chart for my application: 11 inch water column, 1/2" wc drop etc. The point I'm trying to get at is if the regulator has 3/4" ports and is perfectly capable of suppling enough volume for the 1 1/4" pipe what difference does it make if I use the 10 inch long 3/4" pipe ****** that comes out of the 3/4" regulator and through the wall already? I can't see it making a nickles worth of difference which side of the wall I jump up to 1 1/4" pipe. I do realise I may have to adjust the regulator to get the correct water column with the size increase.
It probably will work fine with a 3/4"x10" ******, but I still would consider just bumping the pressure to 2 PSI and adding a regulator or more to bump the pressure back down.

I used to do quite a bit of gas piping. I often would run 2 PSI up to the gas hogs in the building, furnace, boiler or water heater, then put in a regulator for each unit, then one regulator for the rest of the house.
 
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i4ni

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Need more info, how long is the line at the furthest appliance. Model of second stage regulator, then total BTU of the house
48 1/2' from the regulator to 50,000 btu fireplace. Total btu's 340,000. The regulator is a Fisher Controls R352/22 3/4" ports, 10 psi inlet pressure, 10-13" WC. The LP guy said that regulator should be good for over 900,000 btu. The supply line from tank is 3/4".
,
 

gmcgeo

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48 1/2' from the regulator to 50,000 btu fireplace. Total btu's 340,000. The regulator is a Fisher Controls R352/22 3/4" ports, 10 psi inlet pressure, 10-13" WC. The LP guy said that regulator should be good for over 900,000 btu. The supply line from tank is 3/4".
,
This fisher Reg has the capability vapor pressure of 1,250,000 BTUs, 50' of 1" black iron will do 480,000 BTU. 3/4 would be pushing it
 
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derekdrew

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I have the same regulator, R352/22, that used to feed a gigantic old school Kohler generator that has given up the ghost. Can I temporarily connect a small roll around generator to this (for power outage backup use only), 31 amps x 2 110 volt = 62 amps capacity. I am a little unclear whether I should connect the BBQ propane hose (part G2R150) with integral BBQ regulator that came with the smaller generator to the old R352/22 regulator (thus having two regulators in line) or whether to use one or the other only or whether to get an entirely new regulator of some kind. The new generator is the one promoted a few weeks ago by the Den of Tools ("Tool Bear") that was for sale on ebay, Firman 9.5kw (max) tri-fuel T07571F that was $550 including shipping. It has been relisted on ebay for $667. I will have to step down the pipe size somehow one way or the other to grab propane from this location for the new small generator. The tank is size 1,000 and is underground nearby.
 

yeldogt

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The tank is under very high pressure -- the primary register is just that. You are still sending high pressure though the 3/4 to the house after the primary.

It's the secondary that brings this down to what the appliances need -- I have a secondary outside of every building and one at a generator.

This is inside my mechanical space -- very tight. Looks like they may have used 1.25 from the secondary (I'm not always that great at just looking at pipe and knowing) You can see the manifold to the right of the boiler. It drops down and then goes to the four outlets (stove/boiler/furnace/dryer) The regulator is just on the other side of the foundation
 

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derekdrew

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How to I got from the 3/4" fitting outlet of the big R352/22 regulator to connect that to a standard male POL fitting that you would see on the supply end of a standard BBQ Hose?

See just the two photos below for the FROM location to the TO location or read more below or both.

Do I need a male 3/4" black pipe (or hose or connector) that leads to a female POL fitting capable of receiving a male POL fitting of the type that attaches to most gas station exchange propane tanks?

You can see in the photo that my propane supply location has a R352/22 Fisher Controls regulator (discussed in this thread) that is said to have 3/4" ports. Presumably I need to connect the output of this big regulator to the smaller BBQ regulator that is stuck onto the propane supply hose that the new generator manufacturer included with the generator, thus having both regulators in series in line?

The 20Kw generator on our property failed and while I am thinking about something with fancy integration with battery backup and solar (that we don't have yet) I got a factory rebuit Firman 9kw generator from ebay that takes propane via the BBQ hose/regulator assembly.

Attached is a jpg photo of where I would like to get the propane from ..... the exact same area that was feeding the old big generator (out in the field). But I don't have the right fittings to make the connection, I don't think.

The source for both the new and the old generator is a nearby underground 1,000 gallon buried tank.

It seems like I can feed propane from the big regulator to my new temporary generator if I could connect the Firman supplied BBQ regulator/hose assembly's POL fitting to the output of the R352/22 Fisher Controls regulator somehow.

The BBQ regulator/hose assembly G2R150 that came with the Firman generator looks like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086DBDWNP/?tag=atomicindus08-20, and I need a way to connect the big blue handle POL fitting at one end to the propane line shown in the attached photo, presumably after the line comes out of the larger R352/22 Fisher Controls regulator somewhere, or just screwed into the side of the R352/22.
 

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akdmax

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I need to do some re-sizing on the LP lines in my house to accomodate more BTU demand. My current 2nd stage LP regulator is for 3/4" pipe. I need to up-grade to 1 1/4" pipe on the down stream side of the regulator for first 8 feet to meet the new BTU requirement. According to the LP service guy the 3/4" regulator will be capable of handling the increased volume of adding the 1 1/4" pipe. He said the 3/4" regulator is capable of suppling over 900,000 BTU's and I only need 340,000 max. My question is if that's the case what difference does it make if I leave the current 10 inches of 3/4" pipe that comes out of the regulator and through wall and then jump up in size? Unless I'm overlooking something I don't see the need to make a bigger hole in the wall. I'm hoping a plumber or HVAC expert will weigh in. Thanks
Did you get an answer to your question? I'm in the same boat at the moment and haven't found any good information.
 
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i4ni

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Did you get an answer to your question? I'm in the same boat at the moment and haven't found any good information.
Everything worked out in my case as described above. I did have to increase the pressure a tiny bit at the 2nd regulator to meet my appliance demands but that pressure increase was safely within the pressure range. Bear in mind every scenario will be different so do your diligent homework, be sure to pressure test properly and check and re-check your work. I must stress if you have any doubts at all hire a professional. Good luck
 
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