Is scan tool needed to bleed brakes on 2003 Silverado?

[Chevy-SS]

Is there any way to thoroughly bleed the brakes on my 2003 Silverado LS 1500 4WD (four-wheel disc brakes) without the scan tool to purge the ABS module? I am using a Motive pressure bleeder for the main bleeding, and this Motive unit typically works perfectly for all different vehicles. I've done a LOT of bleeding on this truck, numerous times, still not quite there.

I've replaced everything; pads, calipers, rotors, most lines, and even installed braided stainless steel flex lines, all in effort to get a good firm, high brake pedal, but no joy. Pedal is just OK. I know there's a tiny bit of air hiding in there somewhere. How to get it out?

I'd appreciate any tips or tricks. If the scan tool is a hundred bucks or so, I'll buy it.

Thanks! Dave F.

 

[yjWrangler]

The GM Tech 2 scanner you'll need isn't that cheap. I've read on LS1tech guys do a hard stop to activate the ABS to purge the air out of the module, then bleed the brakes afterwards.

 

[vpd66]

Get a second person to operate the brake pedal and manually bleed at the ABS unit. Just bleed the two rear brake lines and the two front brake lines at the ABS unit. Check the pedal and if it is still not right then bleed at the wheels. This usually gets the air out. I've also just driven the truck for a week with the so so pedal then re bleed the brakes. This actually gets the air purged farther toward the bleeder. I just replaced every brake line on my 2006 Silverado during Christmas and I manual bleed the brakes and they came out great.

 

[crewchief888]

ive had to replace all the hard lines on my '00 sierra over the period of 2 or 3 years.
tried cycling the ABS with a tech2 scanner,(along with help from a friend who is a GM tech) and never really got a good pedal.
i gravity bleed, the do the old panic stop in a parking lot to get the ABS to kick in several times. got a much better pedal after 4 or 5 panic stops.

 

[Chevy-SS]

Thanks gents! All good ideas. I've done some ABS-activating panic stops in the past. Next snow storm (or ice) I will do lots of them. Just bled the brakes AGAIN and used almost 20 lbs of pressure through my Motive bleeder, and they are better. Still not perfect.

Thanks again..........................

 

[Utahtrapper]

No scan tool need
You start with the right rear, Have someone pump the brakes till good clear fluid comes out it is the furthest from the reservoir then the driver side rear then front passenger and last driver side front.
This ensure you flush the entire system and All Air is purged.

 

[Htscheg]

No scan tool need
You start with the right rear, Have someone pump the brakes till good clear fluid comes out it is the furthest from the reservoir then the driver side rear then front passenger and last driver side front.
This ensure you flush the entire system and All Air is purged.

This is the way to do it!! Done it many times this way... no scanner needed

 

[Utahtrapper]

This is the way to do it!! Done it many times this way... no scanner needed

Thank You

Just Trying To Pass On The Right Way.

Brakes should perform perfectly after this procedure.

 

[xjfish]

ABS module on frame-rail needs to be bled. Hard brake and ABS activation on loose dirt/gravel/snow several times should eventually get trapped air moving along. Manually bleed again. Scan tool is much easier/faster if you can borrow one...

 

[Tonyuk]

Are you braking hard enough to active the ABS/ESC after each bleed?

Speaking from VAG cars the ABS module is sealed against fluid and air unless opened, either with a scan tool or on command from the CM. If your bleeding the brakes and the pedal still feels soft, before activating the ABS module, then its something else other then air in the ABS causing the pedal to be soft, as the air inside would have no effect until it was moved outside of the module by it opening up.

 

[WhiffySpark]

No scan tool need
You start with the right rear, Have someone pump the brakes till good clear fluid comes out it is the furthest from the reservoir then the driver side rear then front passenger and last driver side front.
This ensure you flush the entire system and All Air is purged.

Doesn’t always work on gm

 

[toolenthusiast]

No scan tool need
You start with the right rear, Have someone pump the brakes till good clear fluid comes out it is the furthest from the reservoir then the driver side rear then front passenger and last driver side front.
This ensure you flush the entire system and All Air is purged.

The method which you describe does not address the ABS at all. Do you understand how brakes work?

 

[yost69]

No scan tool need
You start with the right rear, Have someone pump the brakes till good clear fluid comes out it is the furthest from the reservoir then the driver side rear then front passenger and last driver side front.
This ensure you flush the entire system and All Air is purged.

This is the way to do it!! Done it many times this way... no scanner needed

You guys get good pedal on gm trucks using this method? I never have. I always use a scan tool in the end to bleed the abs unit to get a good pedal.

 

[grumpychevy]

Don’t overlook replacing the bleeders themselves. I did the same on my 2004 2500 and could not get a good firm pedal, turned out to be the bleeders would’nt fully seat and would allow air back into the system. Everything felt tight and looked good but no go, soft pedal. Changed the bleeders, rebled the system and good to go after that.

 

[Ktmrider83]

lift wheels off ground, put in drive. Hit brakes multiple times. Rebleed

 

[jcbarry]

Just had same issue on '08 Escalade EXT. Used my Snap On Solus to activate ABS, then bled lines in normal fashion in conjunction with Motive bleeder. Took a few tries but pedal came back. Any decent bi-directional scan tool should have the ABS command, dont necessarily need a Tech 2.

 

[GTO]

No scan tool need
You start with the right rear, Have someone pump the brakes till good clear fluid comes out it is the furthest from the reservoir then the driver side rear then front passenger and last driver side front.
This ensure you flush the entire system and All Air is purged.

Yes,this would work great on my '67 collector car.....not on modern ABS equipped cars...

 

[Ign]

ive had to replace all the hard lines on my '00 sierra over the period of 2 or 3 years.
tried cycling the ABS with a tech2 scanner,(along with help from a friend who is a GM tech) and never really got a good pedal.
i gravity bleed, the do the old panic stop in a parking lot to get the ABS to kick in several times. got a much better pedal after 4 or 5 panic stops.

That's 'cause the 1/2t brakes of the era are terrible. We had an '02 Silverado that always had ****** brakes. The pedal was firm but the amount of pressure needed for a hard stop was ridiculous. Was not a booster issue.

Our '05 Yukon is maybe a bit better but the hydroboost inherently causes a slightly more spongy pedal of course.

I'm not bashing the '800s - they're great trucks! And the 3/4t brakes were worlds better. But GM just dropped the ball on the 1/2t brakes. No way around it.

 

[Wamsutta]

Just had same issue on '08 Escalade EXT. Used my Snap On Solus to activate ABS, then bled lines in normal fashion in conjunction with Motive bleeder. Took a few tries but pedal came back. Any decent bi-directional scan tool should have the ABS command, dont necessarily need a Tech 2.

Thank You! I didn't know the Snap-on Solus could bleed the ABS.

 

[kkroger]

I have a 2000 Silverado in the rust belt and I've not had an issue with the lines, but I have replaced the calipers several times, I did the front brakes the first time out of guilt having replaced the rears 3 times at that point. I just used loaded calipers. I've bled them several times with no scan tool and I didn't bleed at the ABS module, I have used an air powered vacuum bleed tool, worked fine, I do the bleed from far to near method like always, I've been doing brakes on cars with ABS and computer controls for a long time... never a problem. YMMV, Results not Typical, Individuals depicted are professionals, do not try this at home.

 

[Al Borland]

if replacing a caliper or wheel cylinder without running the master cylinder dry, normal bleeding works. if the system was open/empty, then the ABS is an issue.