Is there a shrink tube for this?

[Rebelphotog]

In my truck, I have a 90w 6 head Whelen hideaway strobe system. I've had the same system in 4 different vehicles and never had a problem. However, on my 09 Silverado, the connectors going to the taillights get filled with mud/moisture due to GM deciding these trucks don't need closed in wheel wells. I would like to seal up the end of the wire where it goes into the connector. I have them taped right now, but moisture still gets in apparently because the lights keep working intermittently.

Here is what the wire/connector looks like (not my picture)

I need a shrink tube that will go over the connector, but then shrink down tight around the wire as well as the end of the connector once I heat it. All of the shrink tube I've used in the past would either only shrink so far, or melt away/disintegrate if shrunk below it's intended size. Do they make anything that will accommodate these two different sizes?

I've never really had to shrink an application like this with two different sizes, so if this is a no brainer, I apologize. I've yet to find anything though. Thanks in advance.

 

[daveroy]

I would try either liquid electrical tape... or tool dip...
Put a piece of tape over the connection end and dip it. let it dry, and cut away the tape.

 

[tcianci]

The simple way to fix this is to pop the pins out of one of the connectors and slide some shrink sleeve of a smaller diameter over the cable. You can get some on both ends by just sliding the tube down to the opposite end of the cable when you have the connector shell off. Shrink some tubing around the jacket of the cable then repeat the process until you have a couple or 3 layers of shrink sleeve around the jacket of the cable. The idea is to build up the diameter of the cable jacket until it reaches a point that the shrink sleeve that you're going to use around the connector shell will also shrink sufficiently to seal onto the built up sleeving you have added to the cable jacket.

While this may prolong the usefulness of the cable assembly, the connectors themselves are not designed for the environment you're using them in. Your best bet would be to re-wire the connectors using a typical GM/Delphi "Weather-Pac" connector. These connectors are highly water resistant and incorporate a gasketed mating shell design as well as individual seals for each wire where it enters the connector. You can purchase them online as well as the crimper and pin removal tool that works with these connectors.
BTW, if you think about it, it's kind of silly to blame GM for your installation of a cable assembly with connectors that were never designed for the application that you're using them for. All of the connectors that came with your truck were designed and tested to work reliably for their intended application and they do. So don't blame the manufacturer...start using the old noggin.

 

[G_P]

Use the thick electrical tape that only sticks to itself. It will seal those right up.

Nice strobes. Had the same set in an old show car when I was younger.

Also good for scaring the hell out of friends when you pull up to a party!

Sent from my C5120 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

I echo the use of "typical GM/Delphi "Weather-Pac" connector". This is exactly the application they are made for. Lots of race car supply places sell them. Get a "kit" with the tools and you'll be a pro in no time.

Another option is "Rescue-Tape":

http://www.rescuetape.com

Made of silicon.

 

[Brentd2183]

You have a few option, for heat shrink you want a dual wall 3:1 ratio tubing. Dual wall has an adhesive goo that will run when heated to actually seal it. Anything at homedepot or radio shack is only single wall and wont do anything to stop the moisture from shorting out the connector.

3/4 inch will fit the connector, then 1/2 to cover the gap between the wire and the previously shrunk 3/4, even 3:1 wont go all the way to the wire in one shot. So take the molex connector off the end by releasing the tabs, slide the 1/2 on, reassemble and put the 3/4 on, shrink the 3/4 around the plug, then slide the 1/2 over the top of that and shrink.

Now you do have other options, Deutsch weather proof connectors or weatherpack connectors. Deutsch is the brand Whelen will use in waterproof connectors and weather pack is the same brand that does all the connections of modern cars and trucks.

http://www.strobesnmore.com/Deutsch-3-Pin-Connector-Kit-(waterproof).html

http://www.waytekwire.com/products/20/Weather-Pack-Connectors/

Weather pack is more money of course but it is the best, you have to buy the two housings, pins and sockets, and the rubber seals. You will need the crimper as well. These are the only ones I use in my installs and I've done at least 20 pickups and all have the same open tail light area. I used to silicone the ends where the wires are but that would fail too, especially on plow trucks so over the years I now have a whole kit with the different size pins and seals. If this is a one time deal, yes the heatshrink will work, but you wont regret going the extra step and its an excuse for a new tool. Also put a little dielectric grease inside the connector before plugging it in if you decide to do the heat shrink method. Good luck!

 

[mtnkrake]

Whelen also makes a waterproof Deutsch connector setup.

 

[Rebelphotog]

The simple way to fix this is to pop the pins out of one of the connectors and slide some shrink sleeve of a smaller diameter over the cable. You can get some on both ends by just sliding the tube down to the opposite end of the cable when you have the connector shell off. Shrink some tubing around the jacket of the cable then repeat the process until you have a couple or 3 layers of shrink sleeve around the jacket of the cable. The idea is to build up the diameter of the cable jacket until it reaches a point that the shrink sleeve that you're going to use around the connector shell will also shrink sufficiently to seal onto the built up sleeving you have added to the cable jacket.

While this may prolong the usefulness of the cable assembly, the connectors themselves are not designed for the environment you're using them in. Your best bet would be to re-wire the connectors using a typical GM/Delphi "Weather-Pac" connector. These connectors are highly water resistant and incorporate a gasketed mating shell design as well as individual seals for each wire where it enters the connector. You can purchase them online as well as the crimper and pin removal tool that works with these connectors.
BTW, if you think about it, it's kind of silly to blame GM for your installation of a cable assembly with connectors that were never designed for the application that you're using them for. All of the connectors that came with your truck were designed and tested to work reliably for their intended application and they do. So don't blame the manufacturer...start using the old noggin.

I've thought about the weather pac's, but was trying to avoid it, as I will only keep this truck another year or so, and didn't want to put any more money into this system if it costs more than a roll of tape Once the bulbs go out, I'll sell the power unit. They provide FANTASTIC warning power and supplement my LED setup well, but drilling holes and replacing bulbs at $50/pop is no fun. That being said, I see I can get the connectors online for about 1/6 the costs I can get them for locally, so I may go that route. The only time I've seen this problem, and only time I've experienced it, is on a 07+ GM truck.

As far as blaming GM... I'm GM through and through. Owned MANY of them, and currently have 3 in the driveway. But this design was in fact a poor one, so I will blame them. It was so poor, THEIR connectors corrode and fall apart on the taillight harnesses. Junk gets in there that is impossible to get out without pulling the taillights and spending 20min per side scraping junk out. I've got 3 friends with the GMT900 trucks that have had to replace their bulb sockets due to this, and one that had to replace a taillight due to a rock penetrating it from the backside. I try to clean mine out every few months, but I shouldn't have to worry about it. Wasn't as big of a problem on my 99 Sierra (though it was still a slight problem).

 

[mtnkrake]

http://www.cableorganizer.com/heat-...rce=CO&utm_medium=Banner&utm_campaign=RecView

 

[Rebelphotog]

You have a few option, for heat shrink you want a dual wall 3:1 ratio tubing. Dual wall has an adhesive goo that will run when heated to actually seal it. Anything at homedepot or radio shack is only single wall and wont do anything to stop the moisture from shorting out the connector.

3/4 inch will fit the connector, then 1/2 to cover the gap between the wire and the previously shrunk 3/4, even 3:1 wont go all the way to the wire in one shot. So take the molex connector off the end by releasing the tabs, slide the 1/2 on, reassemble and put the 3/4 on, shrink the 3/4 around the plug, then slide the 1/2 over the top of that and shrink.

Now you do have other options, Deutsch weather proof connectors or weatherpack connectors. Deutsch is the brand Whelen will use in waterproof connectors and weather pack is the same brand that does all the connections of modern cars and trucks.

http://www.strobesnmore.com/Deutsch-3-Pin-Connector-Kit-(waterproof).html

http://www.waytekwire.com/products/20/Weather-Pack-Connectors/

Weather pack is more money of course but it is the best, you have to buy the two housings, pins and sockets, and the rubber seals. You will need the crimper as well. These are the only ones I use in my installs and I've done at least 20 pickups and all have the same open tail light area. I used to silicone the ends where the wires are but that would fail too, especially on plow trucks so over the years I now have a whole kit with the different size pins and seals. If this is a one time deal, yes the heatshrink will work, but you wont regret going the extra step and its an excuse for a new tool. Also put a little dielectric grease inside the connector before plugging it in if you decide to do the heat shrink method. Good luck!

Thanks for all of the great responses everyone. I've done more installs than I care to count, but my truck is the only 07+ GM I've installed on. Everything else has been pretty straightforward without any real "special" treatment.

I'll weigh my options and decide what to do. I put my trailer into the bedside last summer and cracked the taillight as well... I may end up just ditching the system when I fix the truck and not even worry about this. I have some Tir4 lights on the license plate that will work ok for rear warning, but if I ditch the strobes, I'm going to need to put something in the back glass. I may decide to go that route and sell the strobes to give myself 2 less holes to plug in the new taillight when I replace it and sell the truck.

Too many options... I hate to give up the strobes, but if they weren't already installed, I wouldn't be using them again. Too much hassle.

I'll try to take pictures when I pull the taillights out this week so you guys can see what I'm dealing with.

 

[rsanter]

Tape it up and then cover in the liquid electrical tape

Bob

 

[padstack]

Basically what everyone else has said. You'll never make that connector weatherproof for any significant period of time. You will need to replace the connector and seal from the end of the connector to the jacket of the cable (water inside the jacket doesn't do anything good for you either). You can look into sure-seal, conxall, or a host of other options. Adhesive-lined heat shrink would be advised as well.

 

[Greatbear]

Self-sealing rubber electrical tape, if you don't plan on keeping the truck long.

 

[930dreamer]

I have a bunch of 3/4" shrink tube if you want to try a few pieces.

 

[ratfarmer]

However, on my 09 Silverado, the connectors going to the taillights get filled with mud/moisture due to GM deciding these trucks don't need closed in wheel wells.

As crazy as it sounds it they made fender liners but didn't install them to keep the costs down. I know this because I helped a friend install them on his truck and you can order them from gm parts direct.

All of the other suggestions in the above posts will work also.

 

[RVDan]

I use regular heat shrink tube and pump some urethane sealant in the ends before heating it. After shrinking the urethane squishes out the end making it perfectly weatherproof.

 

[kd4gij]

In my truck, I have a 90w 6 head Whelen hideaway strobe system. I've had the same system in 4 different vehicles and never had a problem. However, on my 09 Silverado, the connectors going to the taillights get filled with mud/moisture due to GM deciding these trucks don't need closed in wheel wells. I would like to seal up the end of the wire where it goes into the connector. I have them taped right now, but moisture still gets in apparently because the lights keep working intermittently.

Here is what the wire/connector looks like (not my picture)

I need a shrink tube that will go over the connector, but then shrink down tight around the wire as well as the end of the connector once I heat it. All of the shrink tube I've used in the past would either only shrink so far, or melt away/disintegrate if shrunk below it's intended size. Do they make anything that will accommodate these two different sizes?

I've never really had to shrink an application like this with two different sizes, so if this is a no brainer, I apologize. I've yet to find anything though. Thanks in advance.

Trade the Silverado for an F150 problem solved

 

[Rebelphotog]

As crazy as it sounds it they made fender liners but didn't install them to keep the costs down. I know this because I helped a friend install them on his truck and you can order them from gm parts direct.

All of the other suggestions in the above posts will work also.

Yep... I was going to get some, then saw them installed and was NOT impressed. Oh well. My plan is to pick up a 2015 next year, so hopefully they improve the design by then (but I won't hold my breath).

 

[Rebelphotog]

I have a bunch of 3/4" shrink tube if you want to try a few pieces.

Thanks for the offer! And thanks again to everyone who has offered advice. I'm going to think on it for a bit and try to make my decision. The weather pacs are looking pretty good about now, but I change my mind every 5 minutes

 

[Rebelphotog]

Trade the Silverado for an F150 problem solved

But then I'll have strobes that work and a truck that doesn't!














I've actually grown quite fond of the interiors and exteriors of the F150s. I'd LOVE a white platinum edition crew cab with black leather. I just can't get myself to love the powerplants in the F150s though.

 

[BigAl62]

Google "heat shrinkable tape". It's made for hard to seal electrical items.

 

[caper150]

take those strobes out and replace with Whelen vertex, much easier to install and no connectors,just solder and shrink wrap,no big head unit to install either. We have been replacing strobes in squad cars with these.

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/37682730" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe>

 

[supra90turbo]

Also, I suggest getting some rear wheel liners for your truck. They list for $120, but you could get them for $100 if you knew someone at a dealership.

http://gmaccessorieszone.com/Chevrolet/en-US/Silverado/2009/Accessories/Exterior/Wheel House Liner/

 

[James E]

You're right about the design. Not having plastic liners in the fender of a pickup truck is silly, IMO. And yes, I've had tail light problems with these, too.

I like the daveroy's idea of tool dip. I also like tcianci's idea of pulling the plastic connectors and individually connecting the wires and protecting them. You could even solder for a permanent solution.

 

[Oldbear]

"GM deciding these trucks don't need closed in wheel wells"

Weather pack as others have said, loom to add protection.

And go to your local GM dealer - I used to sell a set of accessory rear fender liners for around $100 CDN or less. My dealer was putting them in every truck as an added bonus - and because we all thought it was stupid of GM to not have them...

 

[Rebelphotog]

Google "heat shrinkable tape". It's made for hard to seal electrical items.

Thanks, I'll look into that as well.

take those strobes out and replace with Whelen vertex, much easier to install and no connectors,just solder and shrink wrap,no big head unit to install either. We have been replacing strobes in squad cars with these.

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/37682730" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe>

Yeah, we have those in our brush/utility truck. They still don't have NEAR the warning power of the strobes, but can be effective nonetheless. I'd rather not drill holes anymore. Once this truck is gone, I'll probably stick with all surface mount/interior.

 

[Rebelphotog]

Also, I suggest getting some rear wheel liners for your truck. They list for $120, but you could get them for $100 if you knew someone at a dealership.

http://gmaccessorieszone.com/Chevrolet/en-US/Silverado/2009/Accessories/Exterior/Wheel House Liner/

"GM deciding these trucks don't need closed in wheel wells"

Weather pack as others have said, loom to add protection.

And go to your local GM dealer - I used to sell a set of accessory rear fender liners for around $100 CDN or less. My dealer was putting them in every truck as an added bonus - and because we all thought it was stupid of GM to not have them...

Like I said, I planned on getting them until I saw them in person. Not at all worth the money. If I could get a set for ~$50, I'd consider it. The truck won't be around long enough to worry about it anyway. Besides... I really should fix the bed/taillight before worrying about the wheel well liners anyway.

I pulled some of it out, so it doesn't look nearly that bad now, but it still doesn't look good. Made me sick.... wasn't a scratch on the truck before that.

 

[KinzeMech]

As far as blaming GM... I'm GM through and through. Owned MANY of them, and currently have 3 in the driveway. But this design was in fact a poor one, so I will blame them. It was so poor, THEIR connectors corrode and fall apart on the taillight harnesses.

I'm going to poke fun once, and then go on to be helpful...you're blaming GM for a problem caused by using insufficiently weathertight connectors, while attempting to do the same thing yourself. You got to admit that's a little funny.


You can get a crimper capable of crimping weatherpack terminals at NAPA for about $30, and weatherpack shells, terminals, and seals are available on ebay at stupid cheap prices. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delphi-GM-W...pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item5647a3bd74&vxp=mtr.
Properly installed, these will put an end to the problem.

 

[Strouty]

I would use grease like this:

http://www.grote.com/cgi-bin/goc/goc.cgi?product_number=99170

I use it on all my utility truck lights and it works great. If you try and seal out the water with that odd shape, you may end up trapping it inside. Water can get almost anywhere, once it is there, it causes all the grief you currently have plus more. The grease keeps the water away by displacing the empty space. I would even use this on weatherpack terminals.

 

[Worsedog]

The grease is an easy cheap fix.

On the strobes we install in our cruisers I use sensor safe silicone sealer on both sides of the connectors and where they slip together. Most of our systems have been in atleast four or five cars by now.

 

[Rebelphotog]

I'm going to poke fun once, and then go on to be helpful...you're blaming GM for a problem caused by using insufficiently weathertight connectors, while attempting to do the same thing yourself. You got to admit that's a little funny.

Yeah I see what you're saying. However, in my case, I'm using the product as it is made, for its intended purpose, in the environment it was intended to be used. I can't help it that Whelen didn't think to seal up their connectors and that GM left their wheel wells open. I'd just like to know why in the other vehicles I had this kit in, this problem never happened. I even had the lights under water in my old truck and didn't have a problem. Oh well, that's just my luck.

 

[acemannj]

I actually own a cable assembly manufacturing facility.

Why don't you wrap the back side w/ a tape perimeter (forming a "cup"), then pot the back side of the connector with caulk - that should be sufficient.

Does this make sense?

Aceman

 

[theoldwizard1]

Self-sealing rubber electrical tape, if you don't plan on keeping the truck long.

3M Linerless Electrical Rubber Tape 2242

Good stuff !

 

[DaleK]

Slide a chunk of bicycle inner tube over the connectors, fold the ends around the wire and heat shrink the ends. Or just tape them

 

[srmofo]

Self sealing tape and a good layer of scotch-kote.

I used scotch-kote on most of connectors to seal them when I was running snow removal equipment.
http://www.3m.com/product/information/Scotchkote-Electrical-Coating.html

I found it in the home electrical isle at lowes