Is this clausing lathe a good deal?

[Mamrak76]

Can anyone advise if this clausing is worth $1000? Any problems noticed?

 

[Strouty]

Does it come with any tooling?

 

[ducatithunder]

Check the ways. Check the runout on the spindle. Appears to have hardened ways which is a bonus. Also appears to have either a L-0 or L-00 chuck. These are far superior then threaded chucks, thought the chucks are a bit more expensive and harder to find. Does it run? Does it require a VFD or is it running on 3 phase? A VFD if not included will run you a few hundred $. Cheap lathes can become real money pits. You can pick up some decent lathes for $1000 when you look CL or ebay. That is a 12x36 lathe based on the 5914 model number. Thats a decent size to start with and should do most operations. Does it include any tooling tooling?

 

[Mamrak76]

Does it come with any tooling?

Only what’s pictured. I see a few things included. Not a ton of stuff.

 

[gorilla]

I would say yes. It seems to have most of the tooling you will need to get started maybe even some tool bits. If it's a 3 phase machine you will need a vfd to run it that's usually $200.00. If it's still under power run it and make sure all the feeds and speeds work. It's bound to have some ware so you need to decide if it will meet your needs. If you need to do really accurate work save your money and buy a brand new import. Restoring geometrical accuracy to a lathe is beyond most home shops.

 

[matt_i]

The spindle clutch handle is supposed to be attached to the carriage I think. Headstock end cover is missing or off (nevermind I see it behind).

Spindle is an L-00.

Trace the tailstock flat-way from a dial indicator mounted on the carriage. Run the carriage close to extremes of travel and note the difference in indicator you observe across the entire travel. Check backlash "lost motion" in the cross-slide. Those two will give you an indication of the lathe's condition.

The weak point in a 5914 is the hydraulically adjustable vari-pitch "Reeves Drive". (likely why the end cover is off). There should be parts available from Clausing but machine tool spare parts are high priced if you are used to auto parts prices.

You should plan to move a top-heavy machine thats 1200 lbs. In good condition its a nice sweet spot between features and price.

This is how I moved mine...note engine hoist is not your average 2T version, this is a 3T with considerably longer arms. The lifting frame is to protect the clutch rod as the lathe is lifted. Simply throwing a strap under the bedway will bend the clutch shaft in or out depending on which path you choose. The bed casting is "ported" to the rear unlike other designs and this prevents simply going straight down and slinging under the first cross-rib to the right of the chuck.

 

[MushCreek]

That would be a steal around here.

 

[karoc]

I be willing to bet its gone. As a parts machine its worth 1000. Piecing it out you could get your money back, if the QCGB is working and no strip gears I sell it for 500.00. Tubalcain or Mr Pete has that lathe in most of his Youtube video's. As a hobbyist you just want to have some fun, so unless you going to do some machining for Boeing or Nasa go for it.

 

[Mamrak76]

The spindle clutch handle is supposed to be attached to the carriage I think. Headstock end cover is missing or off (nevermind I see it behind).

Spindle is an L-00.

Trace the tailstock flat-way from a dial indicator mounted on the carriage. Run the carriage close to extremes of travel and note the difference in indicator you observe across the entire travel. Check backlash "lost motion" in the cross-slide. Those two will give you an indication of the lathe's condition.

The weak point in a 5914 is the hydraulically adjustable vari-pitch "Reeves Drive". (likely why the end cover is off). There should be parts available from Clausing but machine tool spare parts are high priced if you are used to auto parts prices.

You should plan to move a top-heavy machine thats 1200 lbs. In good condition its a nice sweet spot between features and price.

This is how I moved mine...note engine hoist is not your average 2T version, this is a 3T with considerably longer arms. The lifting frame is to protect the clutch rod as the lathe is lifted. Simply throwing a strap under the bedway will bend the clutch shaft in or out depending on which path you choose. The bed casting is "ported" to the rear unlike other designs and this prevents simply going straight down and slinging under the first cross-rib to the right of the chuck.

I took those covers off myself for inspection.

I already made a deposit on it, so it’s mine if it want it.

 

[nadogail]

As others have said, "It depends"

 

[metlmunchr]

Is it under power? It has a hydraulically actuated speed control system, and IMO the ability to verify that it is functional would be the main issue in determining whether to buy or not. I'm not familiar with the speed system on the 5914, but have found over the years that any hydraulically actuated system with problems on a machine tool is potentially a major issue to repair. Since Matt I owns one, he'd be in a better position to comment on the complexity of the speed variator and any known problems.

As long as that mechanism can be demonstrated as functional, I'd say the machine is a good deal if the other things previously mentioned check out okay. Given the oil staining on the wall directly behind the chuck (a common thing with any lathe sitting near a wall), the machine is sitting where it was in operation. Given that, I'd be suspicious if the seller claims everything works but its just disconnected from power. Kinda like all those cars that "ran great when parked".

Accessories such as a quick change tool post with tool holders, or a steady rest, or 3 and 4 jaw chucks, or a face plate add legitimate value to any used lathe, but IMO most of what sellers call "tooling" is generally a pile of junk worth about $3 at most.

 

[Whitworth]

They're asking $3000 plus for any used metal lathe in my neck of the woods.

 

[justanengineer]

Those are nice lil machines to run, the only real issue is the drive. I have a 6300 with the mechanical reeves drive and it shares many parts and factory tooling with the 5900s. That said, it’s prob a $1k-1500 machine cleaned up and running. I could see repairing the drive being an easy ~$1k if it’s like most, so I’d pass unless priced at scrap value. For an “only” lathe tho I’d keep looking for something decently tooled with a taper attachment and 2500+ RPM spindle.


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[Tim in Indiana]

Several years ago I bought nine of these from a school district. I think I paid $450 each but this was 20 years ago. I still have one but I seldom use it. They sold thousands of these into the schools in the Midwest. It seems like all the schools in my area had the 5900 series in their shops. Must of been a very good salesman working this area.

In my opinion this is a good garage or basement lathe to get started with. Even in perfect condition it is light duty and you will not take heavy cuts with it.

The hydraulics used to move the reeves drive is easily duplicated if you have an example to copy. I made 3 of the "master cylinder" which is located on top of the spindle housing. I also made a couple of the lower "double cylinder" units. I used standard oil rings and master cylinder seals when I made mine. But you used to be able to buy the seals, reeves drive bushings and plastic key from Clausing in Michigan. Not sure now.

It doesn't appear to have a taper attachment but that's not a deal killer to me. The person above who said you can part it out for decent money is correct. If I would buy it would be dependent on where I was planning to put it and what I was going to make with it.

It's a good lathe to start with.

 

[Mamrak76]

Several years ago I bought nine of these from a school district. I think I paid $450 each but this was 20 years ago. I still have one but I seldom use it. They sold thousands of these into the schools in the Midwest. It seems like all the schools in my area had the 5900 series in their shops. Must of been a very good salesman working this area.

In my opinion this is a good garage or basement lathe to get started with. Even in perfect condition it is light duty and you will not take heavy cuts with it.

The hydraulics used to move the reeves drive is easily duplicated if you have an example to copy. I made 3 of the "master cylinder" which is located on top of the spindle housing. I also made a couple of the lower "double cylinder" units. I used standard oil rings and master cylinder seals when I made mine. But you used to be able to buy the seals, reeves drive bushings and plastic key from Clausing in Michigan. Not sure now.

It doesn't appear to have a taper attachment but that's not a deal killer to me. The person above who said you can part it out for decent money is correct. If I would buy it would be dependent on where I was planning to put it and what I was going to make with it.

It's a good lathe to start with.

What do you mean by taper attachment? I could Poke around and see if it’s sitting on another shelf with another machine.

 

[ducatithunder]

Usually the taper attachment is attached to the lathe and the cross slide. I didnt see one in the pictures.

 

[matt_i]

You really don't need a taper attachment imo. It seems on the surface like you are getting a V8 vs a V6 with that option checked, but its nowhere even close to the utility analogy.

I've turned 2 tapers in the last 20 years, if you need to do a lot of them you should be looking for a turning center imo.

In that particular lathe, supposing you got the taper attachment, it has a specialized leadscrew with spline-drive and they put a deep rotary-broached internal spline on the actual acme screw itself. Expensive part. I bought one probably 16-18 years ago to restore cross-slide issues. The advantage is you have a real taper where either the tapered-way or the handwheel can make adjustments at any time vs. the ugly taper attach on something like an Atlas where you actually disconnect the bronze nut from the cross-slide and then you can make no adjustments to the position of the tool other than the tapered-way.

Vs. a standard single piece Acme for the normal lathe. Much less complex and could make your own from precision Acme stock.

 

[gearhead1]

Generally speaking, it’s worth $1000 as long as it’s not wore out, unless you want a project. I grab the chuck and check for radial/axial play. Take a dial indicator and check runout at the chuck. Also check the cross slide backlash.

For home use, it’s fine. I bought a LeBlond for that and was worn, but not worn out. I make stuff all the time and it’s fine.

 

[Charles Freeborn]

Looks a lot like the lathe I learned on in HS in the '70's. That brings back memories... I learned how to cut threads on it.

 

[Mamrak76]

Thanks. Yes I did buy it for $1000 with tooling. Really looks in decent shape, but I’m
no expert. I am storing it off site for a few months to get my mill in order first and make some room. Will update with pics on down the road.