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Is this lift installation kit ok?

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Jbullfrog

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Jan 9, 2007
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Avoca, Iowa
How thick is your concrete? The best install is to drill clear through and then if you ever have to remove the lift, you can drive the anchors down flush. That kit looks like it should be ok.

My 4 post sits on 2 different pours of the floor, so I have steel plates under 2 of the 3 posts as there is 9/16" difference between the low and high. The plastic wedges are then used to level the posts.
 
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35chevy

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Mar 13, 2014
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South Alabama
My floor is only the width of a 2x4, so 3.5". It has wire in it, but no rebar. My guess is that is not enough, so I am going to have to cut into it and pour deeper pads. I already have a concrete saw. How large do the pads need to be? The bad part is that it wasn't leveled very well and there's a gradual hump in the floor. I was not too happy, but the installer wouldn't give me a bill so the floor was free. It isn't too noticeable and it's ok for my purposes, but it will require the use of shims.
 
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brownbagg

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there was some information at the mohawk site about making pads for bad concrete slabs
 

readhead

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Durango, Co.
Those are plastic glazing shims. The only way I would use plastic shims is if you shimed enough to get nonshrink grout under the baseplates. Sounds like your best bet is to pour new pads and cast in anchor bolts.
 

Strouty

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You do NOT want to pour two separate pads, you pour one large one. Two pads can move independent of each other. You want the lift to be one piece.
 
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35chevy

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You do NOT want to pour two separate pads, you pour one large one. Two pads can move independent of each other. You want the lift to be one piece.

Several lift manufacturers recommend to pour two 4'x4' pads that extend around 6" under the existing slab.

quote from revolutionlift.com: "If an anchor will not reach 150 ft-lbs or does not have enough embedment or adequate spacing cannot be achieved, replace the concrete under the leg with a 4’ X 4’ X 6” thick pad of 3,000 psi concrete keyed under the existing floor. Let the concrete cure before reinstalling the lift."

quote from rotarylift.com: "On all Two post models; If anchors do not tighten to specified torque, replace concrete under each column base with a 4’ X 4’ X 6” thick 3,000psi minimum concrete pad keyed under and flush with top of existing floor."
 
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8man

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Bryan, Texas
We've used #3 rebar on ~18" centers doweled and epoxied into the existing floor to help stabilize the new pour, but I think that is what they are doing with the "keyed" under the existing slab. The new pour being 6" thick should add to the stability.
 
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35chevy

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We've used #3 rebar on ~18" centers doweled and epoxied into the existing floor to help stabilize the new pour, but I think that is what they are doing with the "keyed" under the existing slab. The new pour being 6" thick should add to the stability.

Most reading I've done recommends either pin it with dowels or "key" it under the existing slab. I think I will do both, use dowels and "key" the new pour under the existing slab. That should do it. I just don't want to have to cut the hole so big. :(
 

justin1795

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Aug 7, 2013
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Location
blue grass IA
I would think you could buy metal shims and good anchors for 50.00 no brand or anything on the anchors. our work buys from Fastenal. they ask if you want china or usa bolts. of corse the price is slightly different.
 
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