Is this old CMan drill press worth a C-note?

[Rickenbackerman]

For sale locally... I realize it's missing two of the handles and the engine turned trim piece on front. Also looks like the quill is all the way down, shouldn't it be spring loaded? Other than that it looks to be in pretty good shape.

And can anyone ID it? Is it an 80, 100 or a 150? Pics from the ad:

<img src="http://images.craigslist.org/3F63Ia3N55L95Y35E2d18687035c61f4317da.jpg">

<img src="http://images.craigslist.org/3E83Gb3M95Ic5N25E6d184206c10cb0ea1494.jpg">

<img src="http://images.craigslist.org/3E43k93Hb5I45F15M4d18d932241ab0891dd9.jpg">

<img src="http://images.craigslist.org/3G13I13Me5L25Jb5M6d183187824476451c37.jpg">

<img src="http://images.craigslist.org/3E33Ff3o85Kd5W65Fdd18333220fa4cdc1122.jpg">

 

[Steevo]

I'd give $75 for it . . . If I couldn't talk him lower . . .

 

[AL`]

I agree with Steevo. I wouldn't pay a full bill for it, but I'm not a gungho collector either. I do dig the vintage look and Craftsman badge though.

 

[Joe B.]

I'd give $75 for it . . . If I couldn't talk him lower . . .

That was what I was thinking before I even saw Steevo's reply. The $75 would assume there are not other unseen issues.

 

[rsanter]

A working floor model, yes
Bench model, no

Bob

 

[nine4gmc]

The spring on the quil could just need adjusting, or it may just be the locking handle is tight but it should rest up. I wouldn't pay more that $50 but I'm a tightwad.

 

[ken w.]

These old drill presses are better built than anything out there today. I would jump on one of these for $100.00.

 

[WaltzW]

I always factor in broken/missing pieces, in other words, make the seller compensate you for repair work. I have a similar Craftsman model to this I bought several years ago also with missing/broken handles. Here's a pic of Craftsman handle next to Reid Tool replacement. They still make them at $10.04 a piece (3/8 x 16 TPI). Reidsupply.com. You might find less expensive handles at Ebay,etc.

Just my 2c, but if the handles are missing/broken was drill flopped over or dropped? Check for broken casting,bent pulleys,etc. and make sure everything works in a straight line.

Mine too is a bench model. I'm sure there must be a way to change the post and make it a floor model?

[/IMG]

 

[Hawk]

25 - 50

 

[Rickenbackerman]

Picked it up for 60 bones. Something's up with the spindle pulley, though, it's all floppin' around on there. Will need to do some investigation...

 

[Modifieddriver]

Ya' did great. Those old drill presses are awesome. Look around, what does $60 buy ya' today, even at Harbor Freight?

 

[nine4gmc]

Pics!!

 

[Outlawmws]

What size is the column? I don't think it's a 150, it looks older...

The motor looks period correct, what is the date code on that?

 

[gatewaysysop]

Picked it up for 60 bones. Something's up with the spindle pulley, though, it's all floppin' around on there. Will need to do some investigation...

Flopping around how? Up and down? If you get more details or pics, do update the thread. Check the bolts in the side of the head casting to see if they're in place or possibly bent (from someone trying to remove the pulley without taking the bolts out first). That could create upward play.

 

[Rickenbackerman]

What size is the column? I don't think it's a 150, it looks older...

The motor looks period correct, what is the date code on that?

****, I meant to measure the column last night and I forgot...
But after a ton of research, I think it's a 100, the predecessor to the 150. I read yesterday that there isn't much difference between the two. Tag ID says 103.23131 and I found the manual here:
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=4779

Where can I find a date code on the motor?

Flopping around how? Up and down? If you get more details or pics, do update the thread. Check the bolts in the side of the head casting to see if they're in place or possibly bent (from someone trying to remove the pulley without taking the bolts out first). That could create upward play.

Yeah, up and down and somewhat side to side. You know what the problem was? The bolts were GONE, and the whole assembly had walked upward. The bottom bearing was trapped in between the two places in the casting where the bearings are supposed to be. The whole thing was just kinda floppin' around... you shoulda heard the racket when the guy turned it on!!! I wanted him to shut it down IMMEDIATELY!

Damage: the splined center of the pulley is somewhat wallered out and the bearings are shot - I just ordered some new ones from Mcmaster. But that's it! I also ordered three handles from Reid supply, so thanks to WaltzW for that link! BTW if anybody needs pulley bearings they are metric! Part # 6205 and although I haven't verified that they fit I'm pretty confident that they will.

I've got the whole thing about 90% apart right now. The spindle and motor bearings seem fine and everything else looks good except for the pulley bearings, so I should be good to go once I get some parts!

Having a hell of a time getting the motor apart, however - the pulley won't budge (although I'm being WAY careful since it's cast aluminum) and the bottom end cover doesn't wanna budge. I soaked the pulley center and bearing inner race/shaft area with Kroil last night. Any tips? Oh I don't have the top pulley upper bearing off yet, either - my puller won't reach behind it...

Thanks gents!

BTW, not sure if I'm going to paint it or not but it will get a thorough cleaning - it's filthy! The original paint is in REAL nice shape but I sure hate the dog turd color...

 

[Outlawmws]

Sounds like you are off and running: BTW, The older units didn't always get the engine turned trim piece.

Shoot a decent pic of the motor info plate and I can probably tell you the year code.

 

[Rickenbackerman]

Can you read the numbers, outlaw? I did my best with my crappy cell phone camera. If not I'll go snag it and type the codes here.

Man, I had a hell of a time getting the motor pulley off! I had to use the endbell and the biggest puller I got... If I didn't do it this way I think it woulda come off in about 100 pieces...

It came off, though, eventually and with a lot of kicking and screaming...


edit: forgot to mention that the column is 2-3/4" OD. So I think it's a 100? BTW I also have a plan in my head for a super slick low speed attachment with NO machining or welding required. If I get it worked out I'll start a new thread...

 

[Outlawmws]

I'd hazard a guess the "A4 53" is for a 1953 motor, maybe the "A4" is Jan 4? (1st moth 4th day?)

 

[PinchPoint]

Way to rusty. Bearings bad? I would say yes! Missing parts yes. 25-30 dollars I would look for a better one. I saw one in a picture today for an estate sale. It's a floor model with 2 tables I think that's what I saw. I will go to this sale tomorrow. Would you like me to get it for you?

 

[hickmlg09]

It looks pretty nice. I agree with some of the guys. See if you can offer a little less since it is missing some parts. We used to have a old craftsman table saw and engine looked just like the last picture you posted

 

[Turbo_Prop]

If the motor works and the runout is tolerable then I would certainly give $100 for it. Those old cast iron drill pressers were built much better than new units costing $500 or more today.

 

[Rickenbackerman]

Thanks outlaw, I was guessing '53 also.

Guys, I already bought it. $60...

 

[Outlawmws]

And yes 2-3/4" col will be a 100.

And assuming it is a 53, you are not missing the trim piece that came later,probably with the 150 (no time to look that up today)

And the motor is period correct:

 

[Rickenbackerman]

Thanks outlaw!

I just realized that if the date is Jan '53 then I bought it on its 60th birthday! Heh...

 

[wxm]

Coincidentally, I just saw this one local cl (NJ). http://cnj.craigslist.org/tls/3558966102.html. It has one missing handle, but looks really clean. Maybe you can get both?

 

[Rickenbackerman]

Update: after about half a bottle of simple green, hours and hours of scrubbing and wirewheeling and polishing, she's finally cleaned up and looking MUCH better! Even though the pics make it look brown it was actually machine gray under 60 years worth of funk about two inches thick! I'll snap some pics tonight.

There's a problem, though. It's got lots of runout. Probably 1/8" at the end of a 4-5" long 1/2" bit. I didn't notice it when I bought it because I didn't put an indicator on it and didn't stick a bit in it. I had the chuck off and on a couple times and it didn't get any better. It looks like the chuck spun on the taper at one point and scored both surfaces of the taper down near the bottom. I tried cleaning the spindle taper up with a file and that didn't help, either. Tonight I'll stick a dial indicator on it to check the runout on the spindle itself...

edit: oh yeah, here's a funny one. Check the 3rd pic in my first post. See how the column didn't go into the upper part of the spindle casting? I'm pretty sure it was put together that way in 1953 and has never drilled a square hole in it's life!

 

[ckadams00]

Nice find for $60, I love these things. Hope the runout isn't bad, sometimes can be fixed. Post more photos if you can, love to see the progress.

 

[Steinmetz]

For sale locally... I realize it's missing two of the handles and the engine turned trim piece on front. Also looks like the quill is all the way down, shouldn't it be spring loaded? Other than that it looks to be in pretty good shape.

And can anyone ID it? Is it an 80, 100 or a 150? Pics from the ad:

<img src="http://images.craigslist.org/3F63Ia3N55L95Y35E2d18687035c61f4317da.jpg">

<img src="http://images.craigslist.org/3E83Gb3M95Ic5N25E6d184206c10cb0ea1494.jpg">

<img src="http://images.craigslist.org/3E43k93Hb5I45F15M4d18d932241ab0891dd9.jpg">

<img src="http://images.craigslist.org/3G13I13Me5L25Jb5M6d183187824476451c37.jpg">

<img src="http://images.craigslist.org/3E33Ff3o85Kd5W65Fdd18333220fa4cdc1122.jpg">

Made by the King-Seeley Corp. Best remembered for thermos bottles and picnic coolers.

 

[Outlawmws]

Check the spindle and the outer part of the chuck for run-out. It could be the inside of the chuck simply needs 50 years of gunk cleaned out.

 

[Rickenbackerman]

Check the spindle and the outer part of the chuck for run-out. It could be the inside of the chuck simply needs 50 years of gunk cleaned out.

I spent a couple of hours on the tapers last night with some valve grinding compound, some 400 grit and a sharpie used as blueing agent. The spindle taper had a high spot on it down at the bottom. The runout just below the chuck jaws was 0.011" when I started, I got it down to about 0.0015" and I think that's about as good as it's gonna get.

More crappy pics, but it's pretty much done! Total cost involved - $60 for the press, $20 for new pulley bearings, $30 for handles, $10 for a new power cord and $25 for a link belt = $145. The last thing I want to do is fab up a low speed attachment for it...

 

[ajchien]

Is it possible to convert one of those bench presses into a free standing floor type by replacing the column?

 

[WWIIjeep]

Is it possible to convert one of those bench presses into a free standing floor type by replacing the column?

Yes, but along with replacing the column, you should also replace the bench base with the larger heavier floor base. The bench base is too small and light for stability as a floor unit.

 

[Outlawmws]

Nice job on the DP runout fix!

Is it possible to convert one of those bench presses into a free standing floor type by replacing the column?

Yes, but along with replacing the column, you should also replace the bench base with the larger heavier floor base. The bench base is too small and light for stability as a floor unit.

Another option is to simply bolt the smaller base to a larger plate or to a piece of ply. However many of the Asian Floor stand DP's use the smaller pattern base and I've seen few issues...

 

[CNGsaves]

That's a beauty for $145 . . . plus all your Elbow Grease.

Nice restore!