Is this Pex pipe?

[tarmy]

Had a garage built (NorCal) about 12 years ago. Had them rough in for a bathroom upstairs in a game room. Finally getting around to building it. Broke into wall to check everything out.

Found the cold water supply which is 3/4” copper...and this red flex line stubbed over to the hot water heater closet.

The photos are of the rough in area...and the same red flex line in the wall stubbed for connection to new water heater.

Trying to figure out if there are different proprietary makes of “pex” line...or just buy the fittings and crimped and hook it up...

Thanks for any help or comments/suggestions...

 

[36truck]

Yes there is different types of PEX and fittings to use on each style. Look closely at the style ends & what make is the PEX.

 

[Kaizen]

Yea but most likely just normal half inch. Colors are to id hot or cold. Simple fittings and crimp. Not sure why they used copper in one. Don’t like the t that looks like it will be buried in a wall


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[strutaeng]

Looks like PEX to me. Look closer. There should be markings on the PEX that will tell you the manufacturer and type like previously stated.

I think you need something like 18" of copper before it becomes PEX because of heat (hot side,) if I recall, although that doesn't seem to be the setup these guys were thinking of when they roughed it out.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Many AHJs require 18" of metal before pex on a water heater. IDK if it just hasn't been installed yet, but you also need an emergency pan with a drain line under the water heater. I'm also curious as to what's going on with that T&P drain line.

Tommy

 

[tarmy]

Many AHJs require 18" of metal before pex on a water heater. IDK if it just hasn't been installed yet, but you also need an emergency pan with a drain line under the water heater. I'm also curious as to what's going on with that T&P drain line.

Tommy

That part I am doing. The drain part that is...

This set up is in snow country...so both the cold and hot sides need to be fully drained at the end of summer season. I am going to have the relief valve hard lined to 3/4” drain, as well as the liner pan (not shown in photo) and a third hose bib connection to drain the water heater each year.

Everything else drains thru the stop and waste valve outside. The entire hot side get drained at a valve I manual use at the low spot in the hot system. If the entire thing is not drain...burst pipes will happen.

I appreciate the info on the hard copper line lead in to the plastic side. I am very tempted to break into more wall and just run copper and skip the whole Pex thing. Means I get to do run about 30’ of 1/2” copper (no big deal) but also tearing out a good amount of drywall.

 

[MoonRise]

Double check your locales requirements/restrictions on the T&P valve installation.

Most of the time, the T&P valve piping MUST be full size (so, 3/4" pipe coming off the T&P valve means the drain/discharge pipe MUST be the full 3/4" all the way) AND the discharge pipe must be 'visible' (so that you can detect leaks or a 'trip' condition) and within 6" of the floor with an air-gap AND discharge via gravity.

Also, check for what the brand/manufacturer of the PEX pipe is. Plumb-PEX and Kitek/IPEX brands both had lawsuits for defects/leaks.

Typical Code requirement is 18" minimum of copper pipe coming off the water heater before transitioning to PEX. Hot or cold side.

https://www.familyhandyman.com/plumbing/pex-piping-everything-you-need-to-know/

Watch out for the electrical bonding if you have PEX.

That discharge pipe shooting horizontal is No-Good. At least as it is right now.

 

[Showkey]

Typical in California they vent the TP valve outside........


http://buildingincalifornia.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/WaterHeaterChecklist1.pdf