Keep your eyes open for a Rockwell 10" Contractor Table Saw. They are much better made than the Craftsman (much better rip fence, cast iron tables and real 1-1/2 hp belt-drive motors)and sell for $100-200 in the Willamette Valley. The one Dumper posted looks like a good deal, especially since it has the small base, although it will be hard to move around unless you add a wheel kit.
Most of the Contractor's saws have a larger, open base. They were meant to be used on a job site, so keeping the sawdust collected was not a design requirement. Most cabinet saws have a base similar to the one Dumper posted, which keeps some of the sawdust trapped in the base for easy cleanup. All the Unisaws are built this way.
I have a 10" Contractor saw that I got off c-list for $150 that has an improved switch and a rough-terrain wheel kit so you can wheelbarrow it around. Make sure that you get the belt guards and hopefully the splitter/blade guard for safety. Even if you take the guards off because you find them to get in your way, they are worth having for resale. Many deals on c-list have dado heads and the mating table insert at no extra cost.
Don't be put off if the table has some rust. Unless it has deep pits you can clean it up just fine for working with Scotch Brite and WD-40. It will still have dark spots from the rust, but will be plenty smooth for working. I hit mine with Carnuba wax after the SB and it feels as smooth as glass.
Make sure the saw tilts and moves up and down smoothly. If not, make sure the screws aren't rusted. Don't force the handwheels, as they are made of plastic, break easily, and cost $45.00+. The handwheels should spin very easily after you back off on the lock knob one turn. The lock knob looks like it holds the handwheel on, which it does!
Do not get a saw with the integral motor, meaning one where the blade attaches directly to the motor. They don't have the same power or depth of cut as the belt-drive models, and are hobby saws. You can get a professional grade saw for little or no more dollars! Also, hold out for a true 10" saw, as there are 8" and 9" versions out there that cost as much but don't have the depth of cut and the blades are costly.
If you are looking to make your own cabinets, many of the saws listed have attachments that aid in this, and for very little extra cost.
). I'd snag one of those instead.