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Is this up to code / done by professional installer

CHEBANSE

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Feb 2, 2012
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Illinois
I just contracted my local plumbing and heater contractor to do the connections for my Beacon Morris 45K btu heater. Is this safe or proper for a house I plan on living in at least 20 years.

No exhaust T pipe

No gas line drip pipe

Flex Gas Line

Not shown electrical light in water heater closet falling out of drywall/ceiling because of electrical connections.

Thank you
 

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NorthCountry

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Here in NY there should be at least an 8" drip leg on any gas appliance and that hot water heart has no shut off to the appliance only the drip leg. And yes there should be a t on that chimney. Professional no up to code definatly no


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NE Massachusetts
The gas comes up through the floor near the water heater, right? You defiantly can't use one shut off for 2 appliances, plus the things already mentioned. I don't know the codes in your area, but it isn't an acceptable professional installation.
 

mygarageone

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All gas equip is required to have drips legs. As far as the flex gas piping , it depends on your state or county code requirements.
You also mention the electric fixture , unless he's lic to do elec work , you have him there too.!
did he pull a permit ? I suspect not based on what I see.

There are no requirements for exhaust t's at least I haven't put on in for decades. They are no longer required unless you over size the B Vent and then the inspector would catch it. As the PP stated you can not use 1 shut off for 2 units.

The other thing I noticed , he used Teflon tape , we never use it anymore . Pipe dope only.
Reason , it gets into the gas controls and then you have bigger problems.
 
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mygarageone

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Here in NY there should be at least an 8" drip leg on any gas appliance and that hot water heart has no shut off to the appliance only the drip leg. And yes there should be a t on that chimney. Professional no up to code definatly no


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The T serves no purpose , they were once used for clean outs which is pass a anymore.

But New York is a different situation.
 

mygarageone

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Why no drip tee or drain trap to catch the flue/exhaust condensation??[/QUOTE

Not required anymore . There was a big issue with condensation when furnaces were way over sized , like years ago but that's not the case anymore.
However I do see them installed on 80%

But they still are not required . but then the manufacture will call for one and then you have to have it . the manufactures now days determine whats happening with there equip.
 

NorthCountry

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Mygarageone you are right up here in NY we have the gustapo watching over us which in my eyes keeps the Hacks out of the trades which keeps my per hour labor rate nice and comfy!!


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mygarageone

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Mygarageone you are right up here in NY we have the gustapo watching over us which in my eyes keeps the Hacks out of the trades which keeps my per hour labor rate nice and comfy!!


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Well Chicago is even worse , especially Cook country . They still require Cast Iron Pipe for most plumbing Jobs ! It's mostly to protect the unions . Not many people know anything about Cast Iron , nor have the tools to install it .
 

HoosierBuddy

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I don't see a bond wire. CSST is supposed to be electrically contiguous and bonded to the main electrical ground for the home. Since this wasn't done, it makes me wonder if the installer was properly certified by the pipe manufacturer to install the CSST in the first place. The installer should have documentation that he has been certified to use that brand of CSST.

In this case, I really would have wanted to see black pipe.

Phil
 

mygarageone

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I don't see a bond wire. CSST is supposed to be electrically contiguous and bonded to the main electrical ground for the home. Since this wasn't done, it makes me wonder if the installer was properly certified by the pipe manufacturer to install the CSST in the first place. The installer should have documentation that he has been certified to use that brand of CSST.

In this case, I really would have wanted to see black pipe.

Phil

The problem is you can buy this stuff at Menards , lowes, home depot , etc. with out any certs.
Looking at it , it looks like the box store stuff.
When we first started using this stuff , there was no grounding required and we did have to be certified by the manufacture. It has it's place but we mostly use it on very short connections were it would take lots of 90's or cutting and fitting and never concealed.
 
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HoosierBuddy

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The problem is you can buy this stuff at Menards , lowes, home depot , etc. with out any certs.
Looking at it , it looks like the box store stuff.
When we first started using this stuff , there was no grounding required and we did have to be certified by the manufacture. It has it's place but we mostly use it on very short connections were it would take lots of 90's or cutting and fitting and never concealed.

Agree. My point is it impossible for someone that is not certified to install CSST properly according to the national fuel code...because the first requirement of the code is any CSST installer has to be certified. If they aren't, then it doesn't matter what the piping looks like...it doesn't meet code.

Phil
 

mygarageone

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Agree. My point is it impossible for someone that is not certified to install CSST properly according to the national fuel code...because the first requirement of the code is any CSST installer has to be certified. If they aren't, then it doesn't matter what the piping looks like...it doesn't meet code.

Phil

Well the home owner has an alternative , call the Mechanical Inspections dept for his state or county. They will get involved and make sure it complies with code.
 
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CHEBANSE

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I finally got the HVAC guy to come back and upgrade per code. I was told that he did his and his dads garage the way he originally did mine. Appearently the exhaust T is not required today in my area.
 

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NorthCountry

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I finally got the HVAC guy to come back and upgrade per code. I was told that he did his and his dads garage the way he originally did mine. Appearently the exhaust T is not required today in my area.

Not to sound like a negative nancy but there is still no drip leg on the water heater! Sorry I have OCD!!! Looks a hell of alot better tho


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CHEBANSE

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I noticed that too. Also no shut off on the water heater. I am tired of fighting them. Definately will look elsewhere in the future.
 

mygarageone

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I noticed that too. Also no shut off on the water heater. I am tired of fighting them. Definately will look elsewhere in the future.

You do have a recourse , contact the local code authorities and they will make sure this is done proper and no cost to you. This guy could get his Hinny in big trouble for this.

Trust me , there would be no fighting after they get involved.
 

alpinewhite

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Here in (earthquake-zoned) California, we are required to have flex to the water heater.
 

mygarageone

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I saw that but technically you could isolate water hear with the two valves in place


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Every state is different , some require a shut off exclusively for the appliance . There may be a national code that they all follow but most times each state will add or delete things they want for there jurisdiction.
 

volaredon

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Hey Chebanse... is your username based on the town you are in? In Illinois? If so youre <10 miles from me, and im the guy that had the rant about HVAC parts places not selling to anyone "not in the trade" I was able to get what I need just by asking from a place right in that town, if youre from there youre probably familiar with them.... hopefully these aren't the guys that did your install.
 

Walty

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Feb 18, 2011
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Besides the other stuff, I would take a closer look at the exhaust vent for the heater. My beacon Morris 75k instructions say that the vent needs to go out a foot horizontal before going vertical.
 

charged355

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Jan 27, 2011
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Cottage Grove, MN
Besides the other stuff, I would take a closer look at the exhaust vent for the heater. My beacon Morris 75k instructions say that the vent needs to go out a foot horizontal before going vertical.

I'm installing the a 75k beacon morris right now also. I believe that it just states you need a minimum of 1/4" slope per horizontal foot. No requirement of running any horizontal length. I think the 90 is just fine.
 

Walty

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Looked at the instructions again. Thought it was specifying a 1 foot horizontal run cause I saw the 5' vertical minimum, but after rereading, looks like your right.

Thanks, saves me some trouble.
 

ksj9393

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Minnesota
Not to sound like a negative nancy but there is still no drip leg on the water heater! Sorry I have OCD!!! Looks a hell of alot better tho


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Drip legs are an anachronism, from the bygone era of "manufactured gas" which was notoriously dirty. In most places today, natural gas is so clean as to render the drip leg obsolete. Yet, codes are slow to keep up, and in my estimation, left on the books way too long just to give nit-picky inspectors something to do. At least, that's how things have been for me. I put the drip leg on only after the inspector caught my "mistake".
 

CNGsaves

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Drip legs are ALWAYS a good idea as they not only catch crud in the gas flow like rust specs, but they also serve as water collection point.

Some areas of country have much wetter natural gas than others . . . . even though it's considered "pipeline quality" per se.

Guy in Ohio has his own NG compressor outside garage to fuel his bi-fuel vehicles, and his monopoly-provided NG from local gas company is so wet that it was damaging his expensive Fuelmaker NG compressor. He installed his own dessicant dryer and now has perfectly dry NG.

Do not skimp on drip legs . . . . they are cheap insurance.
 
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