Is VCT right for me? (moderate working garage)

[P-51]

I just moved into a house, and it has a virgin floor. I'd like to put down a flooring, because I like to keep the garage neat and clean looking, even though I do some moderate work.

I had use Behr "1 Part Epoxy" in another garage, and it was ****. Gasoline spills quickly lifted it, and it all wore away in front of my lathe from walking on the swarf.

My last house, I used SW Tile Clad in my last house, but I'm not sure about it. It was a two part epoxy, I thought it was supposed to be good. I had it tinted medium blue. I prepped the floor well (it was also virgin), but it was cold when I put it down. It was winter in Canada, but the garage is insulated and I had heaters going. I don't know what the actual slab temp was though. The air temp was probably 60-70. Anyway, I found that the epoxy marks really easy. Anything you drag across it leaves white marks. Not sure if it was the temp, the tinting, or just the way it is...

I like the idea of VCT for the look, and the cost and ease of install. Also because it's easy to put in a nice pattern. I can deal with having to use pads under jacks and stands. But I'm worried about a few other things:

I've heard that lowering a car off a jack and tear up a tile because of the tire scrubbing across the floor because of suspension geometry. Or how about turning the wheels with the car stationary? This left swirl marks in the Tile Clad epoxy floor.

And what about gas? I heard that ruins the tiles too? I don't have leaky cars, but occaisionally might spill a little while filing something up, or doing fuel system work.

I do have a welder, but it's a TIG, pretty clean, and I can deal with that problem.

I'm mostly concerned with lowering a car off stands. Or turning the wheels while stationary, and the effects of spilled fluids. Will this destroy the tiles?

The garage isn't a museum, but I like to keep it looking nice, and more importantly easy to keep it clean.

 

[icnsltmfg]

I have VCT in the garage waiting to be put down. From what I have heard, if a tile does get damaged it can be removed and replaced without too much of a problem. I figure all of the **** that goes on in a supermarket or kmart with pallets and hand jacks I would think it is pretty strong for this kind of use. And at $.50 a tile, can't go wrong.

 

[SteveB]

I've had no problems with tiles lifting due to steering wheel use on my VCT floor. There are 3 cars in my 2 car garage so some tire twisting occurs on a fairly regular basis as we manoeuver the various vehicles.

The same with lowering cars off a jack stand, no problem.

As for gasoline spills, I've had small ones with various fluids. So far all I've encountered were dull patches where the fluids removed the shine from my tiles. A quick clean-up and a rag laden with VCT polish quickly restored the sheen.

I do use small metal plates or slices of old carpet under floor jacks, jack stands, etc.

 

[mhoffm911]

Stupid question...maybe...

What do you do with the expansion joints when using VCT tiles? Do you cover over them or just run the tile to the joint?

Tile has not been on my radar, but certainly something I am wiling to consider. I want a "finished" look once I ever finally get it "finished".

 

[P-51]

Steve, that's good to hear. How much working do you do in the garage? I have a welder, but I can accept having to put something on the floor for spatter. My lathe is in the basement this time, so that's one big dirty messy thing to not worry about anymore.

What if you were to drop something moderately heavy. Say... a strut assembly, brake rotor, etc. Does it break the tile, or just dent it?

Do scuffs from dragging something heavy across the floor polish out?

 

[SteveB]

I have a rubber floor mat which I placed around my work bench so that anything nasty can be caught, metal filings, dropped tools, spilled stuff, etc.

I have dropped wrenches and various car parts on my floor, including a brake rotor and alternator (arthritic hands). So far no cracks or serious damage to the VCT but I do have a couple of serious dents. Hey, its a garage after all.

As for scuff marks, yeah I have some. I've polished my floor only twice in 15 months using a sponge mop and Armstrong S-480. This easy process removes most of the scuff. I suppose if I had one of those electric professional buffing/polishing machines it would do an even slicker job but as I said above - its a garage.

My garage doubles as a rec room and hang out area so I tend to keep it neat so that people feel comfortable in there.

For photos see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/281382/14

 

[Kong]

Put on multiple coats of wax. That is what keeps the supermarket tiles looking good.

KongBastard

 

[OldCarGuy]

One 26’ by 38’ section at my last house had 1/8” thick Armstrong industrial floor tile. It was mainly used to store cars on three four-post lifts and was temperature and humidity controlled year round. It was a show place that I stored mostly older cars (1910 to 1947) there. Antique cars are prone to water, gasoline and oil leakage. And after seven years it looked rather nice. Would I do it again,,, NEVER! A good grade of two part 100% solid epoxy is the only way to go.

There is far too much maintenance over an epoxy coated floor. The six month ritual of stripping and polishing was getting old. My new garages are all epoxy coated and all the maintenance I need to do is a quick wet mopping to bring them back to life.. And said good bye to my 20” floor polisher and twice a year full day's work.

BTW If you go with tile, I suggest you purchase an additional 20% floor tile. To replace the ones that yellow from leaked fluids, tire marks and such.

 

[aben8057]

I have a moderate working garage and just did the VCT over the summer....I guess only time will tell.

Link to my post

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11537

 

[timgr]

I considered VCT, but for the price difference, decided it isn't worth it. Sure, 68c/sqft sounds cheap, but work the numbers: 21x17 = 357 sqft, * 68c = $242.76. I'd need cement and applicators, say $35. Rent a tile cutter and roller, $25. 10% extra tiles for cuts and to put away, $24.48. Floor leveling compound and trowel, $25. Total $352.24.

Alternately, 1 Epoxy-Coat kit, with shipping, $299.90. Extra acid, say $10. Extra applicator stuff, $20. $329.90.

Even with some unanticipated extra costs, the VCT will likely be more expensive, and certainly no cheaper than epoxy, and require (ugh) maintenance. Even though I like the appearance of the VCT, and the opportunity for, um, creativity, I'm going with epoxy.

hth!

 

[boiler7904]

Stupid question...maybe...

What do you do with the expansion joints when using VCT tiles? Do you cover over them or just run the tile to the joint?

Tile has not been on my radar, but certainly something I am wiling to consider. I want a "finished" look once I ever finally get it "finished".

The first thing to determine is if they are expansion joints or control joints which is more likely unless it is a huge space.

Control joints are typically tooled as the floor is placed or saw cut when the concrete is still green - within 24 hours of placement and finishing. They can be filled with a cement based floor patch / leveling compound like Ardex Feather Finish.

If you have expansion joints, they need to be able to move as the slab moves with time. Tiles that bridge over expansion joints will crack - probably with the first season change. This situation would require a low profile metal expansion joint cover or sealant in the joint to keep it flexible.