Issue tightening trailer ball...

[Crazyjake8493]

Are we seriously worrying about scratching the chrome on a trailer hitch now?

I thought the discussion regarding nice paint on welding bottles was absurd…

Some guys buy their trucks and tools for show and will never actually use them.

 

[Farmall450]

You can't put the lock washer the wrong way. Flip it over and it is exactly the same. Some types have slightly different tooth edge on one side vs. the other but it doesn't change the direction. And the basic ones that come on trailer balls are the same on both sides.

That was a tongue and cheek comment, but I actually disagree on these heavy ones. If you put the sharp side towards rotation tightening it'll gouge the nut or hitch. Wouldn't you prefer it biting in the loosening direction? I know I would.

 

[rust in the eye]

Wedge something in the hole with the shank, a piece of wire perhaps, enough so that you need to hammer the ball in a bit. That ought to provide enough purchase to begin tightening the nut.

 

[whateg01]

That was a tongue and cheek comment, but I actually disagree on these heavy ones. If you put the sharp side towards rotation tightening it'll gouge the nut or hitch. Wouldn't you prefer it biting in the loosening direction? I know I would.

Say what? The "gouging" will always fight loosening of the nut, regardless of which way you flip the split washer.

 

[Dig Doug]

When tightening a ball on a drop style hitch, I turn it sideways on the truck so I push down to tighten

I use a pipe wrench w/ a cheater, I run the cheater pipe so it hits the ground and a big adjustable open end wrench or a socket to twist the nut.

 

[Innovate1]

When tightening a ball on a drop style hitch, I turn it sideways on the truck so I push down to tighten

I use a pipe wrench w/ a cheater, I run the cheater pipe so it hits the ground and a big adjustable open end wrench or a socket to twist the nut.

Exactly what I was thinking. If I stand on the 16" wrench that will be very close to the 250 ft-lbs of torque needed.

 

[KnurledNut]

Endless options to accomplish this.
Here's another: Loop a ratchet strap around the ball and connect the ends somewhere on the truck to tighten. Plenty of resistance to keep it from spinning.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Break out the impact, put 6 or 7 ugga duggas. Then grab the welder and weld 2 1/2" beads where the thread meets the nut.

Done.

 

[yhprum]

Might need to add a washer or two under the lock washer if the nut is bottoming out on the threads on the ball.

 

[Farmall450]

Say what? The "gouging" will always fight loosening of the nut, regardless of which way you flip the split washer.

No, the gouging between a stationary washer and a nut rotating CCW will only gouge in one direction. Split lock washers aren't symmetrical like wave or belleville ones.

 

[Farmall450]

When tightening a ball on a drop style hitch, I turn it sideways on the truck so I push down to tighten

I use a pipe wrench w/ a cheater, I run the cheater pipe so it hits the ground and a big adjustable open end wrench or a socket to twist the nut.

Another hitch makes a great cheater bar, too.

 

[whateg01]

No, the gouging between a stationary washer and a nut rotating CCW will only gouge in one direction. Split lock washers aren't symmetrical like wave or belleville ones.

I don't think you understand how screws work. If the nut is rotating clockwise to tighten, the draw bar in this case relative to the nut would be rotating counterclockwise so both sides would be trying to lock it.

Maybe you can take a picture of a split washer installed the wrong way so I understand.

 

[PCustoms]

Now I've seen it all....

 

[whateg01]

I

Now I've seen it all....

I hope not. I want to see a split washer installed the wrong way!!!

 

[PCustoms]

I hope not. I want to see a split washer installed the wrong way!!!

 

[Jason280]

I just tighten it as much as possible (either using a wrench or 3/4" impact"", and then hit it a couple times with the MIG welder....it ain't coming loose.

 

[Farmall450]

I don't think you understand how screws work. If the nut is rotating clockwise to tighten, the draw bar in this case relative to the nut would be rotating counterclockwise so both sides would be trying to lock it.

Maybe you can take a picture of a split washer installed the wrong way so I understand.

I think you're the one lacking in understanding here - as previously mentioned, the "installed the wrong way" bit was tongue-in-cheek - despite which way you put it, it'll always "glide" tightening and "gouge" loosening. Therefore, like I said, you'd want it "gouging" when loosening.

You're thinking the washer is static, but in reality the washer will move with the nut before "adhering" to the drawbar (but even as the washer is spinning, it's not gouging the drawbar).

 

[Benny Franklin]

Just had to remove one of these that was a PITA, no flats on the ball and it had been assembled since at least ‘99

A good pair of vice grips as tight as I could get them and a breaker bar/socket along with some PB Blaster got it moving. Didn’t feel like getting one of my impacts so the breaker bar did the trick.


An 18” or 24” adjustable wrench is fairly cheap from Harbor Freight, and things that large don’t require much precision…




I have sockets up to 3 1/8” and combo wrenches up to 2 5/8” so it’s just laziness that makes me use an adjustable wrench lol

 

[mikegt4]

I just shuttled a 2-5/16" ball between vehicles the other day, 1-1/2" wrench on the nut and 1-5/8" wrench on the flats on the ball and tighten (or loosen) it up. Having a couple of track loaders and tractors makes having a larger size wrench inventory on hand essential. For more stubborn nut removal (those big lock washers really dig in) a 1-1/2" - 3/4 drive socket on a ratchet with a cheater bar of appropriate length and the nut comes off in a hurry. I only have an air impact so wrenches usually are faster than waiting for the air compressor to do it's thing.

 

[paranoid56]

i would just weld up two pieces of steel next to the flats.

 

[whateg01]

i would just weld up two pieces of steel next to the flats.

He doesn't want to scratch the ball. You think he's going to be ok with Rusty metal? Lol

 

[ATC]

When tightening a ball on a drop style hitch, I turn it sideways on the truck so I push down to tighten

I use a pipe wrench w/ a cheater, I run the cheater pipe so it hits the ground and a big adjustable open end wrench or a socket to twist the nut.

I do the same, but I wedge a piece of 4x4 under the pipe wrench handle. I’m a bit OCD so the flats on the ball need to be in line.

Then I use a 3/4” ratchet and bounce on the nut once or twice…I’m 300#’s

 

[NUTTSGT]

That would work but tear up the nice chrome finish. I'm going to pick up a bigger adjustable wrench. I have seen some pipe wrench style adjustables with flats - think they are called monkey wrenches? Most of the bigger wrenches I see now are crescent wrench style.

Actually using the ball hitch is going to ruin the chrome. I've never seen a chrome ball without a scratch if it's being used.

Lightly used ball due to being on a 4" drop.

Weld it and be done.

 

[Renegade1LI]

Never had a problem with them coming loose, once used a few times they don't come off easy.

 

[bcradio]

A lot of people in this thread (OP included) must not have impact wrenches. It is time to go shopping!

 

[paranoid56]

He doesn't want to scratch the ball. You think he's going to be ok with Rusty metal? Lol

and at no point did i say weld the ball, weld two flats to the actual hitch, some paint and done. no rust and scratchy balls lol

 

[big bab bob]

24” Adjustable wrench works to hold the ball, impact or wrench and cheater to tighten nut. Put the hitch in your vice if you need easier access.
I would never weld on the hitch or on the hardware.

 

[steel 35]

Only issue, was someone asking me to tighten one,
Then when it was in the vise telling me that’s tight enough.
No you did ask me to tighten it?

 

[bwringer]

Use a strap wrench to hold the ball while tightening the nut. Once you have some good torque to it, you can tighten the rest of the way without it spinning. Definitely 3/4” territory here.

I've done this, and it worked pretty well; once it's as tight as you can get it with a strap wrench, it's tight enough to use an impact if you have one, or crank on it with a big ugly wrench.


My Dad used to take a cold chisel and bung up the exposed threads so that even if it got loose somehow the nut couldn't spin off. You don't always have exposed threads, of course, but you could also use a large punch or chisel to upset the threads at the edge.

I'm not sure this extra effort is really needed. I don't know if I've ever heard of a tightened hitch ball getting loose, but then again maybe it has happened.

 

[Beauregard]

I have covered many crashes where the trailer became uncoupled (Chains? We don't need no stinkin' chains) and the ball was still in the hitch. Nuts do come loose and nuts do fall off. The best fix I've seen is drilling a hole in the threaded shaft about a 1/2" from the bottom and installing a cottor pin.

 

[whateg01]

I have covered many crashes where the trailer became uncoupled (Chains? We don't need no stinkin' chains) and the ball was still in the hitch. Nuts do come loose and nuts do fall off. The best fix I've seen is drilling a hole in the threaded shaft about a 1/2" from the bottom and installing a cottor pin.

I'm not saying it doesn't happen. I'm sure it does. But I would bet those were never very tight to begin with. If the user just tightened until the split washer was fully compressed, it wasn't tight