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Issue with a 4' flourescent T8 fixture

rodder98

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Nov 9, 2011
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65
Location
Ocala, Florida
My garage has several of these fixtures with 2 bulbs each, attached to the ceiling. Now, 1 fixture has a flickering bulb. I replaced it, but still flickered. Then replaced both bulbs and still flickering. Is the ballast bad?
Should I replace the fixture with a T8 LED fixture, or what?

I don't know what would be the best solution.
Thanks
 
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fourjeepin

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Feb 12, 2011
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Atlanta, GA
Buy a couple of T-8 LED ballast bypass replacement lamps. That way you dont have to mess with replacing the whole fixture.

+1. Less power, better light, and no more ballast to go bad. Check the sticky for recommended bulbs.
 

Bretny

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Jul 31, 2017
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Dutchess county NY
Amazon sells 6x 4ft led lights that are chainable for about the price of 4x 4ft led replacement bulbs...and no messing around with re wireing
 

larry4406

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Jan 27, 2006
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19,172
Location
Northern Virginia
Timely topic.

My garage has T8's and in the past 4 years, 16 of the 24 have died and/or have reduced output. I need to fix this.

Short of moving a good light into a former bad/unlit location is there anyway to check a ballast for failure and vise versa the tube? Not real keen on playing easter egg hunt on this given the **** in the way and ladders and all.

Some of the failed/failing tubes have a black ring near the metal end which I understand is the classic tell-tale of a failed bulb. Others have an orangeish hue (no black ring) and never go full bright.

I installed these T8's maybe 5 years ago, homeowner grade T8 unit's from Lowe's. Not sure of fixture brand or ballast within. The bulbs are Phillips units with supposedly 24,000 hours on instant start ballast and 30,000 hours on programmed start ballasts. Garage lights are turned on maybe 2-3 times a day for maybe 4 hours total.

Since I'm in the need to shop for bulbs, figured now is the time to ask.
 
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cybrdyke

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Sep 9, 2014
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USA
Timely topic.

My garage has T8's and in the past 4 years, 16 of the 24 have died and/or have reduced output. I need to fix this.

Short of moving a good light into a former bad/unlit location is there anyway to check a ballast for failure and vise versa the tube? Not real keen on playing easter egg hunt on this given the **** in the way and ladders and all.

Some of the failed/failing tubes have a black ring near the metal end which I understand is the classic tell-tale of a failed bulb. Others have an orangeish hue (no black ring) and never go full bright.

I installed these T8's maybe 5 years ago, homeowner grade T8 unit's from Lowe's. Not sure of fixture brand or ballast within. The bulbs are Phillips units with supposedly 24,000 hours on instant start ballast and 30,000 hours on programmed start ballasts. Garage lights are turned on maybe 2-3 times a day for maybe 4 hours total.

Since I'm in the need to shop for bulbs, figured now is the time to ask.

If I'm reading this correctly, you installed these lamps 5 years ago and only use them 1200 hours per year. 4 years ago, they started dying and now only 8 are still on. You sure didn't get your money's worth.
There's lots of questions in your post. Before I answer them, I'll make some assumptions... 1) you have standard instant start ballasts 2) everything is wired correctly and grounded properly 3) everything is in good physical condition. 4) you have 2 lamp fixtures

Its difficult to accurately check an electronic ballast for correct operation, so you have to look for clues to see if it's working. If you have a fixture with one lamp on and one lamp out...the ballast is good and the lamp is dead. If your fixture has two lamps out, it could either be the ballast or both lamps are dead or all 3. A simple way to check is to put one known good lamp in. If it fires, the ballast is good.
The black ring is tungsten from the cathode and is an indication that the lamp has been turned on/off numerous times, or that it was poorly made. You see this alot on lamps that are on occupancy sensors or where ever the lights are turned on/off alot..like lavatories. Black rings are not necessarily indicative of a failed lamp. Under the circumstances that you described, you should not have lamp failures yet, nor should you have black ends. Something isn't right about this.
Orange or pink lamps have lower than normal gas pressure inside. Either there was a small leak or they weren't properly dosed during manufacture.
Here's my recommendation...
It sounds like you have an issue somewhere. I'm guessing cheap ballasts plus bad lamps. You can try to find it and troubleshoot it, but a better use of that time would be to just bypass the ballasts and put new LED tubes in there. ... or new fixtures.
Good luck,
CD
 

larry4406

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Messages
19,172
Location
Northern Virginia
If I'm reading this correctly, you installed these lamps 5 years ago and only use them 1200 hours per year. 4 years ago, they started dying and now only 8 are still on. You sure didn't get your money's worth.
There's lots of questions in your post. Before I answer them, I'll make some assumptions... 1) you have standard instant start ballasts 2) everything is wired correctly and grounded properly 3) everything is in good physical condition. 4) you have 2 lamp fixtures

Its difficult to accurately check an electronic ballast for correct operation, so you have to look for clues to see if it's working. If you have a fixture with one lamp on and one lamp out...the ballast is good and the lamp is dead. If your fixture has two lamps out, it could either be the ballast or both lamps are dead or all 3. A simple way to check is to put one known good lamp in. If it fires, the ballast is good.
The black ring is tungsten from the cathode and is an indication that the lamp has been turned on/off numerous times, or that it was poorly made. You see this alot on lamps that are on occupancy sensors or where ever the lights are turned on/off alot..like lavatories. Black rings are not necessarily indicative of a failed lamp. Under the circumstances that you described, you should not have lamp failures yet, nor should you have black ends. Something isn't right about this.
Orange or pink lamps have lower than normal gas pressure inside. Either there was a small leak or they weren't properly dosed during manufacture.
Here's my recommendation...
It sounds like you have an issue somewhere. I'm guessing cheap ballasts plus bad lamps. You can try to find it and troubleshoot it, but a better use of that time would be to just bypass the ballasts and put new LED tubes in there. ... or new fixtures.
Good luck,
CD

A most coherent evaluation of my dilemma. Thank you.

I wired all myself so I am confident on that end.

I think cheap fixtures and bulbs. It has been a slow progressive failure over the past 4-5 years and is now to the point where I need to address.

I need to get smart on the conversation to LEDs I guess.

_____________

Edit - being an attached garage, there are a lot of on/off cycles going to the fridge, etc, but not a lot of long term on duration. This must be the cause or contributor of the black rings you mentioned.
 
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fourjeepin

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Feb 12, 2011
Messages
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Location
Atlanta, GA
I was in the same boat - failure of the ballast or bulbs. The good news is it doesn’t matter which one is faulty. Forgo the ballast and replace the bulbs with led bypass. You will be very happy.
 

larry4406

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Jan 27, 2006
Messages
19,172
Location
Northern Virginia
I was in the same boat - failure of the ballast or bulbs. The good news is it doesn’t matter which one is faulty. Forgo the ballast and replace the bulbs with led bypass. You will be very happy.

I think I am leaning towards this path. In the limited searching I have done I think I would want the direct wire LED, ballast delete, with ones that are dual end wired. From what I gather this would then retain the existing tombstones in the fixture and be less effort rewiring.

Home Depot and Lowes do not appear to stock these for conversion direct wire bulbs.

Where are folks getting a reliable source of direct wire, bypass delete, dual ended bulbs?
 

fourjeepin

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Feb 12, 2011
Messages
3,658
Location
Atlanta, GA
I think I am leaning towards this path. In the limited searching I have done I think I would want the direct wire LED, ballast delete, with ones that are dual end wired. From what I gather this would then retain the existing tombstones in the fixture and be less effort rewiring.

Home Depot and Lowes do not appear to stock these for conversion direct wire bulbs.

Where are folks getting a reliable source of direct wire, bypass delete, dual ended bulbs?

Check the sticky. Platonic keeps it updated with several places that have the style bulbs you want.
 

dan360

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Jan 7, 2017
Messages
372
Location
WA state
Just piling on with the LED replacement bulbs. In some areas, local utility companies are doing automatic rebates on LEDs at Costco, Homeless Despot, etc.


1000bulbs.com has them on their Black Friday post for another couple hours for west coasters....
 
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