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Issue with an older DeWalt DW358 cir. saw

Banjorear

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Looking for ideas. I have a DeWalt DW358 cir. saw that has served me well for many, many years. It's a US-made one that I got in mid-90's.

Two years ago, I did a deck project using pressure treated wood. The saw performed perfectly during that build.

I haven't used it since. The other day, I went to go use it and the motor seems like it binding up and it will smoke and then pop the breaker after about 15 seconds.

It has a 13A motor. I'm assuming it has saw dust caked up somewhere inside of it.

I took the end cap off and couldn't find anything out of the ordinary. Any other thoughts?

I'd like to save it if I can. It's been a workhorse.

I'm not opposed to get a new saw, but would like to give this guy one more go if I could.

Thanks,

Tim
 
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gasgas17

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Nova Scotia, Canada
Bearings. We have to change them in power tools all the time. Is it stored in an unheated space like a shed? If it was smoking its most likely done for though. Their never the same after a good smoke.
 
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Banjorear

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Bearings. We have to change them in power tools all the time. Is it stored in an unheated space like a shed? If it was smoking its most likely done for though. Their never the same after a good smoke.

It has been stored in a garage that goes from warm (heated) to cold when heat is off.

Ditch it or fix it?
 

FMC1959

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Could be bearings as mentioned or other stuff. If you want to check a possibility out of left field, check the blade. Probably not old enough to be dull but cutting a lot of softwood, especially wet pressure treated would can gum up the blade with a lot of pitch. It would be like cutting with a very dull blade which would cause the saw to bind and blow the breaker.

If the blade is dirty, there are commercial cleaner for it, but many use something like easy off oven cleaner.
 
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Banjorear

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Thanks guys.

Answers to some of your questions:

Brushes look fine. It does this when "free" spinning. No cutting load. The motor acts this way with or without a blade on it.
 

gungatim

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west mich
bearings probably got dry and the warm/cool cycles got condensation and a bit of rust maybe? If it were me, I'd pull it apart and replace any gritty bearings. Fixed a few old saws this way. newer saws just have bushings in plastic housings and are disposable. I assume that dewalt is made to be servicable? I picked up a used once like new Porter Cable saw in steel case with original receipts from '70's. looked like it was used once, blade (original) was unused and had a 2nd blade with slight dust on it. It acted exactly the same as yours. Pulled it apart and the grease had just hardened up. This thing actually had lube fittings on it and was new again after I cleaned and reoiled everything...
 
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Banjorear

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Essex Co., NJ
bearings probably got dry and the warm/cool cycles got condensation and a bit of rust maybe? If it were me, I'd pull it apart and replace any gritty bearings. Fixed a few old saws this way. newer saws just have bushings in plastic housings and are disposable. I assume that dewalt is made to be servicable? I picked up a used once like new Porter Cable saw in steel case with original receipts from '70's. looked like it was used once, blade (original) was unused and had a 2nd blade with slight dust on it. It acted exactly the same as yours. Pulled it apart and the grease had just hardened up. This thing actually had lube fittings on it and was new again after I cleaned and reoiled everything...

Sounds like a plan. Thanks.
 

TomB19

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Pull it apart. You have nothing to loose. Clean it up and get it back online.

I have been using one for about 20 years. Great saw.
 
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Banjorear

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does it spin freely by hand? IMO, either you have bad bearings or shorted or bad armature/field . if it spins freely by hand chances are the bearings arent the trouble

It seems to spin freely. There is some resistance.

Question: The model doesn't seem to be supported any longer. How can I check for crossover reference on bearings and such?
 

gungatim

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It seems to spin freely. There is some resistance.

Question: The model doesn't seem to be supported any longer. How can I check for crossover reference on bearings and such?

if you can't read the numbers on the bearings, get out a mic/caliper and measure them.
 

TomB19

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If the bearings are OK, it might have burned the brushes. Depending on how worn they are, you might not even need to replace them. Scrape them a bit and get it running. Wear will restore the proper conductivity.

You'll have to clean the commutator. I put the shaft in the drill press, spin it, and hold some emery cloth. Don't over sand it. Stop when you see shiny copper.

If there is a short in the winding, it's probably not worth saving unless you love the saw. There are a lot of really good circular saws on the market.

I'm pretty sure parts are available.

http://www.1800toolrepair.com/tool-repair-parts/dewalt/circular-saw/dw358/dw358type1
 
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Banjorear

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If the bearings are OK, it might have burned the brushes. Depending on how worn they are, you might not even need to replace them. Scrape them a bit and get it running. Wear will restore the proper conductivity.

You'll have to clean the commutator. I put the shaft in the drill press, spin it, and hold some emery cloth. Don't over sand it. Stop when you see shiny copper.

If there is a short in the winding, it's probably not worth saving unless you love the saw. There are a lot of really good circular saws on the market.

I'm pretty sure parts are available.

http://www.1800toolrepair.com/tool-repair-parts/dewalt/circular-saw/dw358/dw358type1

Thanks. The brushes seem OK. I'll fool with it over the weekend. My gut tells me it's the bearings for it seems to want to spool up, but just can't. Seems like if it is the bearings, may be worth the $30 to get the parts to fix v. buying new.
 

TomB19

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Regina, SK, Canada
You might be quicker and cheaper taken care of at a bearing supply house. Take the old ones down and you should return with new ones.

I would suggest ABEC 1 or even ABEC 3 would be all that is required in a circular saw. No need for super expensive bearings, IMO.

Just make sure to get sealed or, at least, ZZ series bearings so they hold up a while.
 
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