Issue with California Air compressor

[Tinkerer2]

I have a 10020 air compressor. I accidentally turned it over and damaged one of the intake filter housings. I had a spare one so that is now OK. However, there is a part on the tank below that intake that is labeled VOR 110v AC 4.5VA 4.1ma 100% ED IP65 that now begins to bleed air when the tank reaches its max pressure of about 120 psi. This part continues to bleed off air until the tank is empty. While the tank is bleeding down, the compressor will not run so I assume this is some sort of safety. The air bleeds off around the odd shaped top.

Did I damage this? Or is something else wrong that is causing this to bleed off? It was working fine before I turned it over. If this part is the issue, any idea where it can be purchased? I looked at the parts diagrams on the Master Tool Repair site (link from California Air site) and this part doesn't appear in the diagram. Maybe they changed the design? The compressor housing has been redesigned.

Any help appreciated. Photos of the part and its location is below.

 

[Tinkerer2]

Well, I found out it is a 110 Volt Electromagnetism (Unloader) but I can not find out why it is bleeding a full tank.

 

[Tinkerer2]

I just turned the compressor on and let it get to 60 psi. I turned the switch off and the tank immediately started bleeding. When I flipped the switch back on, the motor didn't start or anything and the bleeding continued. I flipped the switch back off rather quickly so as not to damage the motor. Bleeding continued until the tank was empty.

 

[LXCam]

Wonder if it got some debris in it. I’d pull the coil off it and take the plunger assembly apart and check for that as well as if you bent it not allowing to fully seat.

 

[micromind]

That valve is normally open meaning that when the coil is not energized, the valve is open. Its purpose is to relieve the pressure in the line that goes from the pump to the tank. If this line stays pressurized, the motor will have a hard time starting and might not start at all.

Most likely, then problem is with the check valve in or very close to the tank. It is supposed to allow airflow into the tank but not out of the tank.

In normal operation, when the compressor stops, there will be a bit of air coming out of the electric valve but it'll stop within a few seconds. If it doesn't stop, the check valve is not sealing and allows air to be released from the tank.

If you can get the check valve out, there's a good chance there's stuff in it that doesn't allow it to seal.

 

[Tinkerer2]

It doesn't bleed until full pressure or when I turn it off. In other words, it doesn't continuously bleed from the start.

There is a bleeder that bleeds until the motor has run for a short time to release the startup pressure when the tank starts out completely empty. See the photo.

 

[Tinkerer2]

That valve is normally open meaning that when the coil is not energized, the valve is open. Its purpose is to relieve the pressure in the line that goes from the pump to the tank. If this line stays pressurized, the motor will have a hard time starting and might not start at all.

Most likely, then problem is with the check valve in or very close to the tank. It is supposed to allow airflow into the tank but not out of the tank.

In normal operation, when the compressor stops, there will be a bit of air coming out of the electric valve but it'll stop within a few seconds. If it doesn't stop, the check valve is not sealing and allows air to be released from the tank.

If you can get the check valve out, there's a good chance there's stuff in it that doesn't allow it to seal.

Any idea how to take it apart? Does the clear part pull off? I'll need to disconnect the wires in order to try to remove it. Looks like I'll have to take the hose off, disconnect the wires in the clear section, then unscrew the unloader and fitting from the tank. Then deal with the unloader.

Or might it be possible to remove the part where it is bleeding from and try to blow some air from that direction? How deep in the tank would the check valve be?

And there was some brown water when I drained the tank after turning it over. By turning it over, I mean essentially laid it on its back - not turned upside down. It was an accident as I was trying to tilt it to remove more water which I did finally accomplish.

 

[The Cobbler]

I suspect the magnet comes off by unscrewing the wheel type plastic on the top . a screw is visible in the base, probably another one under the magnet .
removing those will probably get you into the guts of the valve .
blowing air backwards might work, I would actually try to blow some water thru it .
could have got bent in the fall over too, and misaliged something .

 

[nadogail]

Your unloaded is unloading the tank, it may have become bent or contaminated from the water in the tank.

Change it and report your progress in repairing the compressor.

 

[micromind]

The clear plastic part has a screw in the middle, Remove the screw and it pulls off. There are 3 prongs on the coil (black part). It only plugs in one way.

 

[micromind]

If you can't get the valves to work properly, there are other types of check/unloader valves that can be used, some with little modification.

The one I would use is commonly called a 'Load Genie'. It is a combination check and unloader valve. They have basic pipe threads that screw into the tank and some have pipe threads that connect the pump output to the valve, others have ferrule type connections.

Either way, there are several of us around here who can walk you through how to hook it up.

 

[Tinkerer2]

I suspect the magnet comes off by unscrewing the wheel type plastic on the top . a screw is visible in the base, probably another one under the magnet .
removing those will probably get you into the guts of the valve .
blowing air backwards might work, I would actually try to blow some water thru it .
could have got bent in the fall over too, and misaliged something .

Are you saying blow air or water through the top into the tank once I remove the magnet? Or do I need to unscrew the portion that is screwed into the tank (brass part) and blow air or water backwards through that? Btw, when/if I need to screw what's there back into the tank what type of thread sealer should I use?

If you can't get the valves to work properly, there are other types of check/unloader valves that can be used, some with little modification.

The one I would use is commonly called a 'Load Genie'. It is a combination check and unloader valve. They have basic pipe threads that screw into the tank and some have pipe threads that connect the pump output to the valve, others have ferrule type connections.

Either way, there are several of us around here who can walk you through how to hook it up.

I really appreciate the help.


I'll be heading out later today for a couple weeks so I can't tackle working on this until I get back. Y'all have given me hope that this is fixable. Please keep commenting and I'll respond when I can.

 

[dogdog]

If that thing is bleeding your tank empty.

That brass piece is also a check valve to the tank. Your problem might be that and not the unloaded.
At least on two of the craftsman I have that valve have some kind of things that prevented the valve from complete sitting. Slow leaks over 24 hours. Couldn’t figure out till I dunk that into the ultra sonic cleaner for few cycles and let dry. So ymmv

 

[dogdog]

Is CAT comes with excessive red loctite now a days
?

 

[The Cobbler]

That brass piece is also a check valve to the tank. Your problem might be that and not the unloaded.

that's a great point, and you're spot on. if the tank is bleeding to zero, the check valve is not holding.
so the unloader is opening when the compressor reaches it's max pressure to unload the head... It's doing it's job. the open check valve is allowing the compressed air to backflow into the unloader, and since it's open, it will bleed the tank empty.

 

[dogdog]

that's a great point, and you're spot on. if the tank is bleeding to zero, the check valve is not holding.
so the unloader is opening when the compressor reaches it's max pressure to unload the head... It's doing it's job. the open check valve is allowing the compressed air to backflow into the unloader, and since it's open, it will bleed the tank empty.

Yes, not sure if it is me of that valve and area is over excessive of red stuff all over. Hope OP didn’t have excessive locktite on that valve…. I think acetone or denatured alcohol will soften it. Not 100% but a little heat from a butane lighter will also do. Not from mapp torch though.

 

[Tinkerer2]

Removed the "plug". Cleaned the area inside the fitting and also cleaned the rubber valve. That plug was only snug and had an o-ring. Very easy to unscrew with a wrench. Got it back together and it works correctly now. THANKS EVERYONE !!!!!