Issue with saw horse design

[fourjeepin]

So I have been thinking about building some horses for about a year now and finally got the opportunity last weekend. I started with a design (folding with a shelf) from
http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Tools---Tips/DIY-Skills/Carpentry-Skills/sawhorse-plans/View-All

I modified it to be a little shorter so it would be at the same height as my rolling hardware bins. This took some remembering as it has been decades since I used trigonometry. I can't remember the last time I had a real world use for that knowledge, but I digress. My issue is the lack if a sacrificial board on the top of this (and all of the other) designs. Really? Did they not consider this? Or do people no longer cut into the horse?

I ended up adding a 2x4 sitting vertically, then added a ripped piece on either side for stability. Any thoughts on how I could have done it better? Also, thoughts on why they didn't have this board in their design?

My pics below. Only cost was a couple of 2x4s. The hardware and plywood was leftover.

Here's the first one I built and my shop dog scoping it out.

And a second view, unfolded.

 

[srmofo]

Looks good but your pictures are upside down.

 

[Jim_No_Garage]

Could you just have the second 2 x 4 laying flat like the other? The top one would be the sacrificial layer.

How sturdy is the final product?

I have a pair of 20 year old Hirsch saw ponys that are ok for holding up light stuff.

I actually break out the matched set of B&D Workhorses when I have something heavier.

Cheers

Jim

 

[fourjeepin]

Could you just have the second 2 x 4 laying flat like the other? The top one would be the sacrificial layer.

I measured the cutting depth of my circular saw and its 2-1/4 if memory serves. So cutting anything 3/4" thick or less would mean I was cutting into the structural 2x4. And one of the first things I used these for was cutting beadboard sheets.

How sturdy is the final product?

Very sturdy. I am really pleased with the way these turned out. Just very surprised about the design from Family Handyman. Imagine how upset someone would be if they followed that design and first usage was to cut a piece of plywood. It would cut completely thru the structure and your new pair of horse would be broken, two pairs of legs.

Looks good but your pictures are upside down.

Really? Sorry about that. They look straight on my view.

 

[trboxman]

Depth of cut is adjustable on every circ saw I've ever used....

 

[retrobuilder]

Definitely better than big box ready made stapled horses.

I'd lay down the sacrificial board.

Looks like it can spread out. I'd put 1/2" steel or wood vertical dowels in the cross board and drilled hole to pin the plywood piece firmly. Perhaps make the drilled hole oversize for ease of assembly.

Threaded fasteners better than nails for sure.

Photos looks like you hinged both sides?- I would if not.

Looks good and simple.

Check out www.fishmaster.com to see a folding tower of mine..

 

[theknurl]

fourjeepin;
keep the bottom of your design the same ....

now look at the end view of the sawhorse with a single hinge......its like a pair of pliers
you just need 4 wedges screwed/bolted/glued to the legs above the hinge to clamp a sacrificial 2x4,6, in to remove it just lift your shelf or cross brace and fold it up

 

[Prototyper]

Definitely adjust your depth of cut to be around 1/4" deeper than your material. Helps with chip-out on the top, and limits damage to your sacrificial layer.

 

[Larwyn]

Keeping the weight down of folding sawhorses is often a concern in their design(cold be why they did not add the weight of a false top). I generally use loose bits of scrap between my sawhorses and the stock that I am cutting so seldom cut into the horse itself. I would have more issue with the stability of folding sawhorses than with the lack of a sacrificial top.