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It's all over but the curing.

Jaguar Fan

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Joined
Mar 13, 2008
Messages
5,507
Location
Park City for Ski Season; Las Vegas for Poker Seas
Many thanks to the pros, DIY-ers, and vendors who chimed in with advice.

Now it is all over except for the curing. (Cue the Carly Simon song, "Anticipation...")

This is about 1100 sf of garage in my new home.

First, I acid etched - but that wasn't enough to get the slab in good condition for epoxy; in several places, tradesman had contaminated the slab with who-knows-what and it was flunking a water bead test.

So then I used a 7" grinder to prep the floor - and the result was satisfactory.

I had about 210 lineal feet of control joints to fill. I used a control joint & crack filler that is 100% solids flexible epoxy paste - about like working with cold peanut butter. http://apfepoxy.com/product-epoxy-300-flex#.VTQZ2FXBzRY Then I used a grinder on the high spots.

The design is decorative, and mirrors the rectangular design in the driveway & courtyard & backyard hardscape: decorative concrete in light, medium & darker grey rectangles in a pattern. Each epoxy area in the garage has two colors of flakes: the light areas have white & light grey flakes; the medium color area has light and medium grey flakes; and the dark grey areas have medium & dark grey flakes.

I wanted a medium broadcast -- about 40 to 50 pounds of flakes for the slab.

First I primed the slab.

Next, I masked the dark areas, applied a dark grey epoxy & broadcast flakes.

Then the same for the light areas.

Finally, the medium color areas.

Finally, a clear coat that has UV absorbing qualities (to protect the underlying epoxy) with Shark Grip mixed in.

All the above I did myself -- with encouraging words from Mrs. Jaguar Fan such as, "If you goof this up, will a professional be able to salvage it??"

I did most of the work at night between about 9pm and 2pm on consecutive days, with a break because of very high winds blowing dust around Las Vegas (40+ mph winds).

Because I was doing it all myself without help, I opted for epoxies with a long pot life. 100% solids epoxies have a much shorter pot life, and while I really wanted to do it in 100% solids, at the end of the day, as a DIYer, I decided to be cautious and go with a high solids product with a 77% solids Devran 224v product http://www.international-pc.com/PDS/4690-P-eng-usa-LTR.pdf . It supposedly has a 6 hr pot life, but my experience was it was much shorter than that. I know I would not have made it with 100% solids.

For the clear coat, I used the compatible Devthane 379 http://www.international-pc.com/PDS/4410-P-eng-A4.pdf

Now it is time to let it cure. Then, its time to go get it dirty. :evil:

IMG_0521_zpsysgp2sbj.jpg



IMG_0518_zpsd4mnmlcs.jpg
 
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Shea

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Sep 19, 2012
Messages
2,866
Location
California
Very cool! I thought I was looking at some shadows or the effects of a skylight on the floor until I realized that it was applied in the different colors.
 
OP
J

Jaguar Fan

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Joined
Mar 13, 2008
Messages
5,507
Location
Park City for Ski Season; Las Vegas for Poker Seas
Your water softener, did you take it out? Or work around it?

Looks very nice. I applaud DIY'ers.

I worked around the water softener. I probably should have taken it out.

By working around the water softener, using a 3" brush, I could get within about a half inch of the two tanks. Then, after the epoxy was done, I came back with a "sample size" of paint (not epoxy) and a fine brush and carefully filled in the gaps. Yeah, it isn't perfect, but if you're not looking for the flaw, you won't notice it.
 
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J

Jaguar Fan

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 13, 2008
Messages
5,507
Location
Park City for Ski Season; Las Vegas for Poker Seas
Very cool! I thought I was looking at some shadows or the effects of a skylight on the floor until I realized that it was applied in the different colors.

The different colors were easier to do than I expected. After asking how to achieve this, I heard pieces of advice:

  • Use a concrete saw to cut in "control lines" to define each section
  • Use weatherstriping with adheshive back to create a "dam" for the borders of each section
  • Can't be done with masking tape
  • "you really should hire a pro"

The weatherstriping was a good idea, but the adhesive didn't work well.

I ended up just using 3M tape from a concrete supply store to mask the sections and hoped for the best. It worked very well. There was no bleed under the tape. This particular tape is green -- but NOT green painter's tape. It is very, very sticky and designed to adhere to concrete. You will not find this tape in a paint supply store.

When I pulled the tape, I had one "oops" where the color epoxy section wasn't cured enough, and about a 1" section of epoxy pulled up from the primer. It was like a thin flap of rubber, and the epoxy had cured to the tape sooner, so it came up with the tape. This happened because I pulled the tape too soon. If I had waited longer, this wouldn't have happened.

I fixed the "oops" when I applied the adjoining color epoxy. Even though the epoxy was a different color, I carefully masked it so the "oops" spot would be coated, then hand placed correct color flakes in the 1" oops to fully cover it. You can't see the repair unless you get down on your hands & knees.

Oh -- for anyone who wants to do something like this in the future -- I used sheets of OSB as my "straight edge" when applying the tape. I laid it out in advance using Google Sketchup.
 
Last edited:
OP
J

Jaguar Fan

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 13, 2008
Messages
5,507
Location
Park City for Ski Season; Las Vegas for Poker Seas
Looks amazing! Was grinding the whole floor with just a 7" grinder a pain?

Certainly a walk-behind grinder would have been easier, and would probably give a better result, but I didn't have a way to transport it from HD. So I bought the angle grinder (hey - another excuse for another tool!).

The issue with using a 7" grinder is by the time you're done with the slab, you know what you're doing - but when you begin, you don't. There is always the risk of the grinder getting away from you - and it did. The good news is epoxy + flake (at least a medium broadcast) covers lots & lots of "oopses".
 

spectrum1c

Active member
Joined
Nov 19, 2016
Messages
26
Many thanks to the pros, DIY-ers, and vendors who chimed in with advice.

Now it is all over except for the curing. (Cue the Carly Simon song, "Anticipation...")

This is about 1100 sf of garage in my new home.

First, I acid etched - but that wasn't enough to get the slab in good condition for epoxy; in several places, tradesman had contaminated the slab with who-knows-what and it was flunking a water bead test.

So then I used a 7" grinder to prep the floor - and the result was satisfactory.

I had about 210 lineal feet of control joints to fill. I used a control joint & crack filler that is 100% solids flexible epoxy paste - about like working with cold peanut butter. http://apfepoxy.com/product-epoxy-300-flex#.VTQZ2FXBzRY Then I used a grinder on the high spots.

The design is decorative, and mirrors the rectangular design in the driveway & courtyard & backyard hardscape: decorative concrete in light, medium & darker grey rectangles in a pattern. Each epoxy area in the garage has two colors of flakes: the light areas have white & light grey flakes; the medium color area has light and medium grey flakes; and the dark grey areas have medium & dark grey flakes.

I wanted a medium broadcast -- about 40 to 50 pounds of flakes for the slab.

First I primed the slab.

Next, I masked the dark areas, applied a dark grey epoxy & broadcast flakes.

Then the same for the light areas.

Finally, the medium color areas.

Finally, a clear coat that has UV absorbing qualities (to protect the underlying epoxy) with Shark Grip mixed in.

All the above I did myself -- with encouraging words from Mrs. Jaguar Fan such as, "If you goof this up, will a professional be able to salvage it??"

I did most of the work at night between about 9pm and 2pm on consecutive days, with a break because of very high winds blowing dust around Las Vegas (40+ mph winds).

Because I was doing it all myself without help, I opted for epoxies with a long pot life. 100% solids epoxies have a much shorter pot life, and while I really wanted to do it in 100% solids, at the end of the day, as a DIYer, I decided to be cautious and go with a high solids product with a 77% solids Devran 224v product http://www.international-pc.com/PDS/4690-P-eng-usa-LTR.pdf . It supposedly has a 6 hr pot life, but my experience was it was much shorter than that. I know I would not have made it with 100% solids.

For the clear coat, I used the compatible Devthane 379 http://www.international-pc.com/PDS/4410-P-eng-A4.pdf

Now it is time to let it cure. Then, its time to go get it dirty. :evil:

IMG_0521_zpsysgp2sbj.jpg

Could you give an update on how the devran has held up?
 
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