Its time to decide

[JCQuick]

either epoxy or urethane on my new floor and I just can't decide so here are some facts
concrete was poured in October 2014 so its cured
aprox sq ft 950

my attached 3 car was done with U-coat it 10 years ago and believe it or not has held up fairly good but i want better with this floor.
I'm not real keen on grinding the concrete but I will if it will make it that much better I did and acid wash on my UC
And help me with filling in the control cuts is this for looks? does it affect how the control joint functions?

I'm willing to pay to have it done if the labor is reasonable but most likely it will be DIY

So help me out flooring guys

 

[Garage Flooring]

either epoxy or urethane on my new floor and I just can't decide so here are some facts
concrete was poured in October 2014 so its cured
aprox sq ft 950

my attached 3 car was done with U-coat it 10 years ago and believe it or not has held up fairly good but i want better with this floor.
I'm not real keen on grinding the concrete but I will if it will make it that much better I did and acid wash on my UC
And help me with filling in the control cuts is this for looks? does it affect how the control joint functions?

I'm willing to pay to have it done if the labor is reasonable but most likely it will be DIY

So help me out flooring guys

So I just hopped over to your build post. Lots of info there and obviously I did not read it all. What I was looking for is exactly how the garage / shop is to be used.

 

[benwah]

JC, in all honesty grinding is a far superior method of surface prep compared to acid etching. That being said, the acid etch works in most cases, there is just a larger margin of error and less of a profile for the coating to adhere to.

I always, always suggest using epoxy AND urethane. Epoxy is your build coat(s) and the polyurethane is your finish. Urethane's are generally harder (tougher), and more resistant to certain chemicals, and UV. Hence the reason to put them on top. If you were to have a chemical spill or cosmetic damage, they can easily be re-coated. There is a reason this type of system is an industry standard.

If you really cannot grind, be sure to contact the coating manufacturer you choose to use to make sure their products will be compatible with that method of preparation.

 

[JCQuick]

So I just hopped over to your build post. Lots of info there and obviously I did not read it all. What I was looking for is exactly how the garage / shop is to be used.

it will be a working garage maintaining the 6 vw's we have. Some body work no painting. There will be some welding and I will put something on the floor to protect it in those cases we've been pretty rough on the attached garage and it shows in some spots needs to be chemical resistant.

Thank you I'm open for suggestions

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Epoxy/urethane systems are excellent. Our Nohr-S is another option if you like your high performance coatings served EASY.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Armorpoxy]

For best performance we recommend grinding, then our 100% solid Armorclad System with primer.

40% discount to GJ members. See www.armorcladepoxy.com

 

[3sum]

Wow, 40%?? I wish I'd gone this route instead of the run of the mill epoxy I did five years ago.


Chris Pope Locust Grove, GA
07 Sprint ABS, 07.5 Tuono, 85 V65 Magna

 

[Armorpoxy]

Yes, we offer a 40% discount to all GJ members on most of our coatings including SPGX and Armorclad.

SupraTile Interlocking Tiles and some other products may have lower discounts depending on product group.

 

[MouldsPI]

JC,

If you're interested in more cost-effective solution, please check out http://exeliausa.com/. Our LW tiles are made from pure PVC, are durable and chemical resistant.

Here is a great picture from one of our customers...

Goodluck with your project!

Cheers.

 

[Garage Flooring]

it will be a working garage maintaining the 6 vw's we have. Some body work no painting. There will be some welding and I will put something on the floor to protect it in those cases we've been pretty rough on the attached garage and it shows in some spots needs to be chemical resistant.

Thank you I'm open for suggestions

There are several options. If stain resistance and not a color coat is the primary concern, you could go with our TLPPC urethane. It would give a gloss but is clear. It is a sealer with urethane in it. Penetrates and protects, but leaves a little shine.

For a coating you could do Rust Bullet or even a full epoxy / urethane system. Tiles are another option. If you go with PVC as suggested, you will want to make sure you protect them

either epoxy or urethane on my new floor and I just can't decide so here are some facts
concrete was poured in October 2014 so its cured
aprox sq ft 950

my attached 3 car was done with U-coat it 10 years ago and believe it or not has held up fairly good but i want better with this floor.
I'm not real keen on grinding the concrete but I will if it will make it that much better I did and acid wash on my UC
And help me with filling in the control cuts is this for looks? does it affect how the control joint functions?

I'm willing to pay to have it done if the labor is reasonable but most likely it will be DIY

So help me out flooring guys

JC,

If you're interested in more cost-effective solution, please check out http://exeliausa.com/. Our LW tiles are made from pure PVC, are durable and chemical resistant.

Here is a great picture from one of our customers...

Goodluck with your project!

Cheers.

Love your product! Not sure it is a perfect fit for this application but it is an awesome product.

 

[MouldsPI]

Thanks Justin

 

[James-W]

I have to say, that was one heck of a floor transformation!!!

 

[NotV8]

For best performance we recommend grinding, then our 100% solid Armorclad System with primer.

40% discount to GJ members. See www.armorcladepoxy.com

I guess it's time to order and stop reading. I'll probably do mine this spring or early summer whichever time is best to apply it…