I've started my garage floor...

[gabeancounter]

Cretecoater,
That sounds easy enough! I am sure the concrete has no sealer on it. I have maybe a half dozen quarter sized chips in the concrete from when the house was framed and they nailed blocks to the concrete for support. Also have one saw cut expansion joint. Can you recommend a filler from HD or lowes? Thanks for the help.

Banker
I am going with the gray and the chips that I posted above. Looking to do a heavy flake with the 25 lbs. Not sure on the price diff for custom colors. Kind of gray or tan world?

 

[AlphaGarage]

The muriatic acid available retails will vary in strength, generally from a low of 30% to a high of 37%. Couple that with the fact that concrete also varies greatly in content and you can see why recommendations also vary greatly.

As pointed out the right ratio is the one that is strong enough to cause a reaction, but not much stronger than that. Too weak and it won't etch, too strong and it releases dangerous gases, may over etch the concrete, or may allow still reactive acid to seep into the concrete, where it can cause problems later on.

It's right when you can see or hear a bit of fizzing, if you see smoke - it's too strong, if it just sits there - it's too weak or there's a sealer. I first try 1:2 or 1:3 acid to water and go from there.

Always add the acid to the water, DO NOT pour water into the acid.

Keep in mind that muriatic acid is probably the most dangerous chemical sold in a hardware store - so read and follow all package directions.

There are other etching chemicals that are not as caustic, toxic, or dangerous, but they will cost more.

It still amazes me that muriatic acid - hydrochloric acid - is one of the main ingredients in gastric acid, or stomach acid. Although we like to blame spicy foods, the hydrochloric acid is actually secreted by the stomach. When you have heartburn or have one of those nasty belches - that burning sensation is cause by the same chemical that we're using here to etch concrete!

 

[gabeancounter]

Alpha,
Thanks for the info. Good reminder on not adding water to acid but acid to water! Will pickup some baking soda and gloves tonight and try to get it etched tomorrow evening.

Yes, with cost always being a factor I decided to go with muriatic acid instead of the clean & etch products. $60 versus $10.

 

[tncatadjuster]

When you do the etch be mindful of the fact that if you wash it across a drive it will still etch. Helps to wet all outside concrete that will see wash water. It will eventually neutralize.

 

[firemailwv]

I have two floor drains in my floor using standard PVC piping to a storm sewer. Will the acid hurt the plastic? My gut says yes, but I know I'm not the only one to etch with acid and deal with plastic drains.

Thanks,

 

[TheBanker]

Actually plastic may be okay, the stuff is sold in a plastic jug. I think its the metal that it kills. But I don't know, hopefully someone that knows more will answer.

 

[TheBanker]

Do I need to etch the concrete under raised cabinets and where there will be very little traffic? How careful do I need to be along the sheetrock? Do I need to etch vertical pieces?

 

[gabeancounter]

firemail,
the acid should have no effect on the plastic drain, but the drain probably has a metal grate on top? If it has metal on it I would just sprinkle a little baking soda directly on top of the drain then start etching the floor or it may have a couple of screws to just remove while you etch?
I finished etching my floor Tuesday night. I bought the $5 garden watering can from lowes (2 gallon). The acid from HD comes in a two pack kit- out in the garden center $10. I filled the watering can almost full then just poured in about 1/4 gallon of acid. So it is actually about 1/8 strength like crete coater mentioned. I seemed to get a good etch with that strength. Started a little weaker and then moved up to this mix. It fizzed as soon as it hit the floor real well but only lasted a couple min. I used about 10 of the 2 gallon batches to cover 800 sqft. Scrubbed lightly everywhere with a deck brush. Broke out the pressure washer and rinsed the whole floor. Squeegee the floor off, then rinsed again with the pressure washer. Could really see all the dirt etc coming off the floor. Never let the acid wash dry anywhere! Have been running a fan and a dehumidifier the last two days. Hopefully by Sat it will be dry and ready!
Banker,
There should be enough mixture on the floor to push around under the cabinets. Anything you are going to epoxy I would etch. You should not have to worry about the sheetrock. The watering can kind of gives you a shower effect that will allow you to get the ledges without to much on the drywall. FYI- It looks like you still have a lot of grease/oil on the floor. Get some "Purple Power" from Walmart and give those strips a good scrub with full strength!

 

[TheBanker]

gabean,
Good to hear you got yours done. I picked up acid and degreasers and pressure washer last night. I will work on the oil stains and get those up. Alot of what you see is mostly tire marks. Just one of my concerns is getting the sheetrock all wet.

 

[gabeancounter]

I was very worried about my sheetrock as well. With all the water from the pressure washer my sheetrock got soaked. I tried my best to keep it to a minimum and squeegeed the water out as quick as possible. With those ledges I think you have very little to worry about. A quick spray down on the sheetrock did not hurt anything.

 

[TheBanker]

It seems I will have time to paint this weekend but I have not ordered the product. ok well clean and etch only...maybe one of the next two weekends.

 

[nolatoolguy]

Ausome job, nice to see you did it yourself not like you hired someone for something simple

 

[Ruddy]

I like the way you caught the beer signs in the reflection!

 

[Rocker]

I'd definitely use the squeegee, it is the easiest way to spread the epoxy evenly in the area. I used what came in the kit and put it on an aluminum pole I picked up at Home Depot. The squeegee that comes in the kit looks like it is inexpensive, but does the job well. It wasn't the serrated type.

I would buy or make some spike shoes. If you have some old golf shoes you don't care about, they should work fine. I'd definitely get some inexpensive squeegees and 3/8" nap rollers for fine surfaces. Having a pole to put the roller and squeegee on made it a lot easier to spread the epoxy without bending over the whole time. Use the squeegee to spread it evenly in the space you are doing, then follow up with the roller to even it out. You will see what a difference the rolling makes. After the initial rolling, I was back-rolling perpendicular to the first rolling after 10 minutes. I'd also get a mixer that goes into a drill motor, and some buckets.

Man, Frogday, you've got some of the best looking floors I think I've ever seen sober. They really turned out nicely - I just finished mine and am waiting on them to cure right now, but seeing yours really makes me wish I would have bought extra flakes and gone a lot heavier with them. And the clear coat really makes it nice!

Couldn't agree more about the squeegee - it is a must-have. I bought a cheap 12 inch one from Lowes because I didn't think the ones that came with the Epoxy Coat were worthwhile.

And speaking of making your own spiked shoes, I went to Lowes, Super Walmart, Ace, and a local building and garden supply and COULD NOT find any spiked gardening shoes anywhere. I would have never thought it'd be so hard to find them, so I got a couple packs of peg board double-hooks and electrical taped them to the bottom of my shoes...total investment was less than $5 including the tape and it worked great until the other end of the pegs started poking completely through the soles into my feet towards the end, but I wore them that way the entire job.

 

[TheBanker]

Good idea on the shoes.

 

[gabeancounter]

ok. Banker. I am ready for the updated pics of your floor etched and ready! Ordered any epoxy yet? If I get home in time I hope to put the base mold down so I can see what it looks like finished. Tighten up!
Just kidding with ya.

 

[TheBanker]

ok. Banker. I am ready for the updated pics of your floor etched and ready! Ordered any epoxy yet? If I get home in time I hope to put the base mold down so I can see what it looks like finished. Tighten up!
Just kidding with ya.

I know, I know...I move to slow. The etching looks good, I think its fine. The wife refuses to park elsewhere so I will have to clean it well again before I put down the epoxy. I have not ordered yet. I won't have time to do it this week, 6 days of work, 1 day of school with 2 papers due. Hopefully next week. In the meantime I am palying with flake colors to match the cabinets.

 

[Frogday]

ok. Banker. I am ready for the updated pics of your floor etched and ready! Ordered any epoxy yet? If I get home in time I hope to put the base mold down so I can see what it looks like finished. Tighten up!
Just kidding with ya.

The baseboard molding will really give it a nice finished look.

 

[CreteCoater]

lol pretty innovative on the spiked shoes! I like it!

 

[ml504]

Not trying to hijack, but when acid-etching the floor and trying to keep it off metal surfaces, what is the safest way to do this to my floor for my metal building? The baseplate that goes all around the base of the building will definately get acid on it...is this ok?

 

[TheBanker]

I will let smarter people comment on that but I would just tape it with blue tape. I can't remember where but I think I read about it on here somewhere about cleaning metal after using the acid. It may need to be cleaned or treated.

 

[Frogday]

Not trying to hijack, but when acid-etching the floor and trying to keep it off metal surfaces, what is the safest way to do this to my floor for my metal building? The baseplate that goes all around the base of the building will definately get acid on it...is this ok?

If it is bare galvanized metal, it will turn dark where the acid hits it. Muriatic acid is used when soldering galvanized sheetmetal and it acts quickly. I would get some plastic drop cloth and use the blue tape to cover the bottom 12" of the wall. If the metal is coated or painted, it might stand up better to the small splashes if you rinse it off right away.

 

[ml504]

Thanks. What I am mainly concerned about is the angle iron (red primered) that is fastened to the concrete all along the bottom which the sheet metal screws to. I know that when cleaning that the water/acid will get under the metal and don't want to harm it.

 

[tncatadjuster]

The old style golf shoes with metal cleats work great if you have any, or can pick up a pair at a garage sale. They are comfortable too, compared to the lawn spikes or the rube goldberg thing a few post back.

 

[TheBanker]

 

[bremsm]

I'm a newbie here and wanted to ask about how you deal with expansion joints. I have a rubber type material that seperates the floor and the vertical stem wall. I would like to expoxy the stem wall in addition to the floor but can you epoxy over a flexible joint type material?

 

[TheBanker]

I'm sure the pro's will be along shortly bremsm. I think they will probably tell you that you need to fill it. You won't want to have any movement under the epoxy. But don't take my word for it....I'm sure they will answer soon.

 

[gabeancounter]

bremsm,
You will be fine covering the expansion joint w/ epoxy. Same thing as using caulk in a saw joint then applying epoxy. I know its a different material. I am not a pro - but you can double check with which ever vendor you plan to use for the material.

Banker, no progress I can find on this thread. lol

 

[TheBanker]

Hopefully this weekend, or I have a couple days off of work the first week of April. Everything else is done except for the floor and baseboards....I'm getting very impaitient.

 

[gabeancounter]

Alright- I will give you a break. This has to be the longest thread that only has a garage floor that was hosed out. Ohhh. Frogday helped show what its suppose to look like...just playing with you banker. I know going to school, working etc is tough.

 

[nathank]

Alright- I will give you a break. This has to be the longest thread that only has a garage floor that was hosed out.

Hahaha!

 

[TheBanker]

Ok, this coming week is the week!

 

[Ruddy]

Ok, this coming week is the week!

Right on!
When you finish. go down to Lockhart and go crazy with some BBQ!

 

[Rocker]

They are comfortable too, compared to the lawn spikes or the rube goldberg thing a few post back.

Hey, I resemble that!

 

[ponjohn]

Frogday-

That is THE best color combo I have seen....Fantastic.

Did you get the flakes from Epoxy coat?

How is it that you can do sections of basecoat at different times? Does the second area chemically bond to the first?

thanks-
john

 

[Frogday]

Frogday-

That is THE best color combo I have seen....Fantastic.

Did you get the flakes from Epoxy coat?

How is it that you can do sections of basecoat at different times? Does the second area chemically bond to the first?

thanks-
john

I ordered everything from Epoxy-Coat. The areas I did a week apart don't really overlap much. I just taped a line where I wanted to stop and when I did the next area I put the epoxy down up to the line. There was a probably a slight overlap, but it is hardly noticeable. The bond between the sections overlapping might not be perfect, but it is maybe 1/4" overlap at most, so not a big deal.

 

[ponjohn]

I ordered everything from Epoxy-Coat. The areas I did a week apart don't really overlap much. I just taped a line where I wanted to stop and when I did the next area I put the epoxy down up to the line. There was a probably a slight overlap, but it is hardly noticeable. The bond between the sections overlapping might not be perfect, but it is maybe 1/4" overlap at most, so not a big deal.

Frogday-

Thanks for the explanation and to clarify; each section you did, you applied the basecoat and clear? The following week you again did basecoat and clear....correct?

 

[Frogday]

Frogday-

Thanks for the explanation and to clarify; each section you did, you applied the basecoat and clear? The following week you again did basecoat and clear....correct?

That is how I did mine. I put the clear over the base within 18 hours as the instructions recommended. It would be easiest to clear out the whole garage and do everything in one shot, but that was not possible for me.

 

[TheBanker]

Ok, is there anyway to get epoxy faster than 7 days?? Epoxy-coat can't get it to me until next monday and I need to do this, this weekend.

 

[AlphaGarage]

If this is freight 2 days in transit to most of TX from our SC facility - 3 days to west TX.