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J-Trim and OSB

mod600

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 2, 2012
Messages
82
Location
Central Minnesota
When I sheet the inside walls of my shop I was going to get some steel J-trim to put on the bottom of the wall. I'd nail/screw it to my bottom purlin/plate and liquid nail/silicon it to the floor I figured that would help seal the wall from any water that may get to the wall...then let the OSB sit in the J-trim or raise it up slightly, that way it never contacts the floor/cement. OSB is 1/2" thick and J-trim has a 1" channel in it...so I'd leave a 1/2" gap in the J-Trim, not sure if that'd be a big deal or not. I think it'd be a nice way to finish the wall to floor corner off without having to worry about water wicking up the OSB. Has an one else done this or recommend any other ideas?
Thanks!
mod600
 
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Falcon67

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Joined
Jun 11, 2009
Messages
18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
In most places in my shop, since the walls are built to standard house dimensions (sole plate - stud - double top plate) the sheets naturally sit 1/2" off the floor. The old shop had a wall right by the man door that would have water come under the plate during heavy rains. The OSB wall panel sat right on the floor so it would get wet. All thanks to a design flaw in the slab pour. After 12 years, the only thing it did was discolor the OSB a bit. So IMHO your trim will look good but don't over think the water issue.
 
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mod600

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Joined
Apr 2, 2012
Messages
82
Location
Central Minnesota
I guess I should give more info here...it's a pole shed. I plan to run a treated 2x6 between the poles that will sit on the floor. I might space them up 1/4" off the floor and fill the gap with great stuff to seal it up. I will have purlins running horizontal for the OSB to be nailed/screwed to. I could alway space the OSB up a little bit off of the floor too, since I'll have a partial sheet to cut anyways due to 10 sidewalls. I just thought using the J-trim might finish it off nicer and be away to seal it up to keep water from getting underneath.
 
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trbomax

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Joined
Mar 21, 2010
Messages
2,556
Location
starvation lake,mi.
Put a run of exterior rat gard on first,then the J. This way the edges of the osb will be both covered and about 1 1/2" up off the concrete.

edit) for an even better seal,run a bead of calk-tube roof cement under the rat gard. Warm the tube before useing,it will flow better.A single small tube should do about12 feet.
 
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trbomax

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Mar 21, 2010
Messages
2,556
Location
starvation lake,mi.
On the outside of the building it is used along the bottom of the steel sideing to close off the open ends of the corregation. Its triangular with a nailing fin on the top edge.If u use iy on the inside,u just set the bottom edge on the cement and nail/screw to the studs.Then set the J on the ledge with the nail fin up on it as well.

edit) if u dont keep the bottom edge of that osb off the floor by at least an inch,it will swell. The rat gard will put it up about 1.5". I would also lay a bead of good paintable exterior calk along the joit between th J and the osb to keep water splash from running down into the J,or just forget the J like I did and set the bottom edge of the osb ind a large bead of exterior calk,keeping in mind that if you dont see the squeeze out,u didnt use enough.
 
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mod600

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Apr 2, 2012
Messages
82
Location
Central Minnesota
trbomax - Thanks for the info. I think I found what you're talking about..google search... When they built my shed, the put 2" foam 2' down and 2' out around the bottom purlins. The had a custom trim cap that covered the upper 6" of the foam and then bent back 2" to cover the top face of the foam and then bent straight up for a nailing tab. The installed this before the outside tin. So the tin set right on the trim and sealed off the gaps between the ridges of the tin. I found some base trim that I think might work and will eliminate using J-trim, and will give the OSB a shelf to sit on that will be above the floor.
 
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