Jack for the Car

[johnsdeere850j]

I think this guy is a card, funny stuff

 

[MrMark]

He's as full of it as the Christmas Goose.

 

[Hiball]

Just like 150 ft lbs lug torque is unheard of on a vehicle?

I never said 150ftlbs was unheard of, Normally found in 3/4 ton and up wheels.

Nine lift points right there, I better call and inform them that Mr.Mark says that is nonsense :

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...a=X&ei=R9BhTcOjIoTWgQfQmtzCAg&ved=0CEcQ9QEwCA

And how many of those points where designed to be worked with the OEM scissor jack? During a Roadside Emergency? And Yes there are more lift points on a Rear Wheel drive car versus the FWD drive cars that make up the majority of the whats on the Road.

 

[Techniker]

This is the medical student who works as a front end man and took EE courses for awhile. Talk about a pile. Like the post about measuring DC current with an "inductive clamp" and how inaccurate it is and how "we" engineers wouldn't do that. It must be tough going to Med school while beating on those Ford front ends, lol. No wonder it's hard to find a decent doctor these days.

I am waiting for you to tell us where I am wrong.

You can't measure DC current with an inductive clamp- it's the nature of induction- it requires a fluctuating field. You can however get induction with the immediate "spike" in current from the instant on you may see in DC, but then it's not truly DC. This is how the battery/charging system testers at Autozone work.

You can't accurately measure low current (mA range) with an inductive clamp.

Again, waiting to see where I am wrong.

 

[MrMark]

Yeah, that solid axle Mustang is a blast from the past. Most unibody cars have the 4 corners, usually a pinch weld or a puck, the rear diff (if RWD), maybe an engine cradle, and maybe the lower control arms. Finding someone who knows how to safely pick up a car with a jack, and to get solid info on this, is a challenge in and of itself.

 

[MrMark]

I am waiting for you to tell us where I am wrong.

You can't measure DC current with an inductive clamp- it's the nature of induction- it requires a fluctuating field. You can however get induction with the immediate "spike" in current from the instant on you may see in DC, but then it's not truly DC. This is how the battery/charging system testers at Autozone work.

You can't accurately measure low current (mA range) with an inductive clamp.

Again, waiting to see where I am wrong.

Here's what you posted:

Back in undergrad, I did a lot of electrical engineering work. There really isn't that much difference among digital multimeters as long as you get a quality one (I know that's vague). There are a couple of features specific to auto techs that are relatively unimportant to electrical engineers though. You want one with a thermistor (temperature sensor) so you can check coolant temperature and the like. You also want a DMM with a clamp, induction-style ammeter. EEs aren't as concerned with induction-style ammeters because they're notoriously inaccurate in microelectronics (we have to interrupt the circuit instead which is a major inconvenience in auto work). In auto work, induction-style ammeters are usually good enough. If you need more, you're probably an avionics technician and not a mechanic.-Techniker


Nothing more needs to be said.

 

[Hiball]

Yeah, that solid axle Mustang is a blast from the past. Most unibody cars have the 4 corners, usually a pinch weld or a puck, the rear diff (if RWD), maybe an engine cradle, and maybe the lower control arms. Finding someone who knows how to safely pick up a car with a jack, and to get solid info on this, is a challenge in and of itself.

Yep.. Normally 5 points, 2 (1 each side) behind the Front Tires on the double seamed Metal piece and 2 (1 each side) in front of the Rear wheels with the 5th in the front where the suspension comes together. I suspect the picture of Pontiac was a Failure because it wasnt in the Correct spot. With that said there is NO-Where Near 12 safe spots and its best to use a Lift for Maintenance.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Latter.

As for the rest of your post: [citation needed].

No need for a citation, let it rip. I'm curious to see if you are an expert about something. So far, you have missed on every post although you are getting better with a lighting fast riposte ( that misses.....).

 

[johnsdeere850j]

LOL I love this site, this is the best thing since sliced bread toasted with peanut butter and a 12 pack of beer to kill an evening. I can't stop hitting refresh to see what clever response y'all come up with. Classic!

 

[Bull]

I'm not amused.

If someone says that they don't care about their behavior here, that for me raises a sea of red flags.

Here we have another thread where instead of talking about tools or equipment, people are talking about each other.

I'm shutting this down until I can clean it up.

Just for the record: around here, Hiball is on the short list of people we go to for expert jack advice. He has more experience than most/many/all of us.

Below are Hiball's final thoughts on the matter, at least until this is opened again, assuming I can find the time to sweep away the debris.

This Thread as gotten so far out of hand and is full of lots of miss information. Lets Review..

Always keep the OEM jack in the Vehicle.

The majority of your roadside repairs will Probably be Tire Changes, No one in there right mind would use a Scissor jack to swap a ****** on the side of a Highway.

Unless you are in a Pickup truck you Probably wont be able to get a Bottle jack anywhere near a "Safe" Lift point to swap the tire as the lift location is very close to the actual tire in Unibody vehicles.

Hydraulic Jacks work better than Scissor type but with there convenience comes other factors such as making sure its in Good operating condition and ready for the Emergency sitsuation that you wont see coming.

Become familiar with the lift points on your vehicle, These locations are outlined in your manual, They are NOT negotiable..