Jack Stand Question

[Kilgore Trout]

Quick question for you guys. I am about to jack up my Mazda Tribute to change the front pads and rotors. I have found the right jack points and placement for the jack stands, however, the saddle on my HF 3 ton jack stands isn't wide enough to surround the reinforced portion of the frame.

I know I am not supposed to use wood (which would allow the flat frame to lay flat on the jack stands) but it seems like a bad idea to have the car resting on the two little nubs at the end of the saddle on the jack stand.

Assuming that is a bad idea, do I just go buy some bigger jack stands or ones that have a flat top?

I have changed brakes on a bunch of cars before, but my jack stands have always had a wide enough saddle. This is the first time I've had to jack up the Tribute. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Jeepster04]

Ive had to set it down on the nubs before and I dont like it. Sometimes the frame is just too wide. Does the vehicle not have slotted areas to place the jack stands in?

Those have unibodies, correct? Probably very thin metal so I would be careful setting it on the nubs. While you said not to, I have solid blocks of oak I use to put between the jack stand and the frame at those locations. I would recommend people NOT do this. I only do it when I feel its safe. Wide flat area on the frame, nubs against the wood grain, and nice oak blocks.

 

[CJM8515]

Put the stands under the front subframe and not on the pinch welds.

 

[Kilgore Trout]

I was planning to do it this way:

The "official" jack point is the control arm in the front. I was going to lift it via the areas noted in this video and then place a jack stand there. The video is an escape, but the tribute is basically the same thing.

The issue is that my jack stands are not wide enough to sit on that part of the frame. I could go buy some 6 ton stands which should have a wider saddle.

 

[Kilgore Trout]

Just figured I would update this thread in case anyone else runs into the same problem.

Since I was concerned about having the car rest on the raised nubs of the jack stand saddles, I figured I would get some flat topped jack stands. I bought some ESCO 3-ton stands from tooltopia.

I haven't been able to find anything definitive on whether you can let a car rest on the raised nubs, but I know I'll feel a lot better when I am yanking on the car if it the jack stand has full contact with the frame. I'll report back after I get the stands and complete the brake job.

In the end, I decided the $90 for new stands was worth my piece of mind (and slight chance I would lose a piece of my body!).

 

[tcianci]

Just figured I would update this thread in case anyone else runs into the same problem.

Since I was concerned about having the car rest on the raised nubs of the jack stand saddles, I figured I would get some flat topped jack stands. I bought some ESCO 3-ton stands from tooltopia.

I haven't been able to find anything definitive on whether you can let a car rest on the raised nubs, but I know I'll feel a lot better when I am yanking on the car if it the jack stand has full contact with the frame. I'll report back after I get the stands and complete the brake job.

In the end, I decided the $90 for new stands was worth my piece of mind (and slight chance I would lose a piece of my body!).

Sounds like you feel better about what you're doing without actually knowing what you're doing. As long as you feel better, what could possibly go wrong?

Figure out what the hell you're doing. There are about ten thousand places under any automobile where you can add a jack stand that will save your bacon. And always leave the primary jack in place as well.

 

[padroo]

It seems that new front wheel cars aren't as user friendly as the old cars were when it comes to jack stands.

I have a Grand Marquis and they say not to jack it from the rear differential.
That was always the first choice on older rear wheel drive cars.

Sometimes good blocking comes in handy.

 

[Absentglare]

Just figured I would update this thread in case anyone else runs into the same problem.

Since I was concerned about having the car rest on the raised nubs of the jack stand saddles, I figured I would get some flat topped jack stands. I bought some ESCO 3-ton stands from tooltopia.

I haven't been able to find anything definitive on whether you can let a car rest on the raised nubs, but I know I'll feel a lot better when I am yanking on the car if it the jack stand has full contact with the frame. I'll report back after I get the stands and complete the brake job.

In the end, I decided the $90 for new stands was worth my piece of mind (and slight chance I would lose a piece of my body!).

The nubs should ideally fit into the notches around the jack points. My car has two different sizes of notches for jacks and jack stands. The nubs help prevent the car from sliding across the jack stand.

I bought a set of these once to, in theory, help distribute the weight evenly and keep the frame from bending:



Unfortunately, i didn't like how they made it difficult to align the jack stand with the frame. You want the frame to rest dead center along the contact patch of the jack stand. That is extremely important. Those rubber covers make it more difficult to accomplish that. If you do attempt to use anything between the jack stand and the vehicle, there is a great deal of risk and you should be extremely careful.

For ordinary under-car work (oil change), i recommend ramps.



If the wheels have to come off (adjust suspension or breaks), you'd have to jack up the car, but you might not have to go underneath.

 

[JJThrasher]

Sounds like you feel better about what you're doing without actually knowing what you're doing. As long as you feel better, what could possibly go wrong?

Figure out what the hell you're doing. There are about ten thousand places under any automobile where you can add a jack stand that will save your bacon. And always leave the primary jack in place as well.

This. If its the same body as an Escape there's both a frame and a pinch weld that are suitable jacking and supporting points. Not to mention all the various suspension points that would also be suitable.

Sounds like you should have just spent your money hiring someone to do you brakes.

Honestly what harm do you think will come from the car sitting on the ears? If you pull it off the stands you done screwed something up bad, and odds are you would have tipped the stand anyways. Hell your new flat top stands don't have anything to prevent you pulling the car off of them.

I know I probably sound like and ***, but you sound like you're about to kill yourself .

 

[ImportTuner]

Those 20 Ton truck ramps are cool ... but can't afford $600~900 for a pair.

 

[_Stang_]

I hate the idea of jacking or supporting on a pinch weld. They can/will be crushed or rolled over unless you're using a factory jack (who does that?) with a slot or if your floor jack has a deep saddle or slot. Also your stands need a deep enough saddle so the pinch weld isn't resting directly on it. Plus with some age and corrosion they can break off. Bad deal all around when you have frame and suspension points in the same area.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[kylerohde]

I hate the idea of jacking or supporting on a pinch weld. They can/will be crushed or rolled over unless you're using a factory jack (who does that?) with a slot or if your floor jack has a deep saddle or slot. Also your stands need a deep enough saddle so the pinch weld isn't resting directly on it. Plus with some age and corrosion they can break off. Bad deal all around when you have frame and suspension points in the same area.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Agreed on the pinch welds getting wrecked - that's why I love these "jackpads" - https://zl1addons.com/collections/jackpads-magpads. They go on top of your jack pad and prevent the crushing. It doesn't help the jackstand placement question but definitely helps with jacking the car up.

It drives me nuts that manufacturers won't tell people where the correct jack/jackstand positions are. I realize it's a liability thing but all they will tell you is where to put the spare tire scissor jack, which is typically the pinch welds. And you can't put jackstands there since that's where the jack has to go. The only one I've run into that made it easy was Honda on my sister's '09 Civic. The manual was crystal clear that the correct front jack point was the cradle under the engine and, in the rear, the tow hook was made to be the other jack point so the pinch weld areas were free to be used as jackstands if you wanted. I learned the hard way those tow hooks aren't all engineered like that on my sister's new Hyundai Elantra. Luckily, didn't do any damage but when I jacked at that point, it definitely didn't sound right.

 

[_Stang_]

Agreed on the pinch welds getting wrecked - that's why I love these "jackpads" - https://zl1addons.com/collections/jackpads-magpads. They go on top of your jack pad and prevent the crushing. It doesn't help the jackstand placement question but definitely helps with jacking the car up.

It drives me nuts that manufacturers won't tell people where the correct jack/jackstand positions are. I realize it's a liability thing but all they will tell you is where to put the spare tire scissor jack, which is typically the pinch welds. And you can't put jackstands there since that's where the jack has to go. The only one I've run into that made it easy was Honda on my sister's '09 Civic. The manual was crystal clear that the correct front jack point was the cradle under the engine and, in the rear, the tow hook was made to be the other jack point so the pinch weld areas were free to be used as jackstands if you wanted. I learned the hard way those tow hooks aren't all engineered like that on my sister's new Hyundai Elantra. Luckily, didn't do any damage but when I jacked at that point, it definitely didn't sound right.

Those look REALLY well made, thanks for sharing. The only vehicle I've owned where they made it crystal clear was on an Acura TL. They had a HUGE arrow embossed in the plastic cover under the front of the car that pointed to a really beefy area on the cross member in front of the engine. Three pumps with a floor jack and you had the entire front of the vehicle off the ground. That was over 10 years ago and haven't seen anything as good since.

 

[glentre]

From experience with a near leg-crushing accident, I never get under a car unless there are two methods of support. Trusting a single jack or jack stand at any lifting point, IMO, is not wise.

Glen

 

[kylerohde]

Those look REALLY well made, thanks for sharing. The only vehicle I've owned where they made it crystal clear was on an Acura TL. They had a HUGE arrow embossed in the plastic cover under the front of the car that pointed to a really beefy area on the cross member in front of the engine. Three pumps with a floor jack and you had the entire front of the vehicle off the ground. That was over 10 years ago and haven't seen anything as good since.

They are definitely well made - I've been using mine for probably 3 years and it's in perfect shape still.

Yep, what you had on the Acura is about what I was talking about on my sister's Honda. They're so good at what they do.

 

[tcianci]

From experience with a near leg-crushing accident, I never get under a car unless there are two methods of support. Trusting a single jack or jack stand at any lifting point, IMO, is not wise.

Glen

This! I mentioned this in my first reply. Jack and stand and then a wheel/ tire if it's coming off. No worries about jacking points, pinch welds or anything else if you have enough **** under it