Jack Stand Support On 4-Post Lift

[MikeMalibu]

I’d like to set the frame of my ‘49 Plymouth level for some restoration/modification work. The width of the frame (center to center) is about the same as the distance between the runways on my 4 post lift, so not enough runway width under the frame rails for jack stands. I have a bridge jack and jack tray that I can use for lifting. Appreciate suggestions on methods to support the frame rails. Thought about using 4x4 lumber or rectangular steel tubing across the frame supported by jack stands on the jack tray - doesn’t sound safe unless welded in place? Also thought of using 0.125 or 0.250” wall thickness rectangular tubing across the runways to support the jack stands, like 12”x 2” or 12” x 4” - too heavy? I’ve seen this method used on YouTube but can tell about wood / steel / dimensions. Thanks for your suggestions.

 

[Firebrick43]

C clamp (with quality clamps) a length 2x2 steel tubing across and under the frame rails and place that on quality jack stands or cribbing.

 

[e015475]

I use some simple 2x4s as 'fixtures' on my four-post (IIRC it is three boards sistered together. This is the ride-height fixture for the air suspension system for the truck in my avatar . It allows me to keep the truck at ride-height on the lift with the airbags deflated so I can align the suspension or work on it. If I want to take a wheel off I just put a bottle jack under the lower control arm. I have a similar setup for holding up the IRS. After I shot this picture, I added some blocks to the bottom of the 2x4s to constrain it better on the lift. The one for the rear has some 'shoes' about 15" long that run fore and aft along the lift's ramp for more stability

 

[finn]

I would probably go with simple 2x4s, but consider springing for a rotisserie. The cost is hard to swallow, but that’s forgotten once you have one.

I think mine ran about $1600, which, in retrospect, isn’t exorbitant, if you consider it a long term investment or can sell it for 60% in a couple of years.

 

[MikeMalibu]

C clamp (with quality clamps) a length 2x2 steel tubing across and under the frame rails and place that on quality jack stands or cribbing.

Good suggestion. I have 2x2 steel on hand and quality clamps and jack stands. Wouldn’t have a problem with tacking the 2x2 to the underside of the frame rails for extra stability.

 

[MikeMalibu]

I use some simple 2x4s as 'fixtures' on my four-post (IIRC it is three boards sistered together. This is the ride-height fixture for the air suspension system for the truck in my avatar . It allows me to keep the truck at ride-height on the lift with the airbags deflated so I can align the suspension or work on it. If I want to take a wheel off I just put a bottle jack under the lower control arm. I have a similar setup for holding up the IRS. After I shot this picture, I added some blocks to the bottom of the 2x4s to constrain it better on the lift. The one for the rear has some 'shoes' about 15" long that run fore and aft along the lift's ramp for more stability

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[MikeMalibu]

I would probably go with simple 2x4s, but consider springing for a rotisserie. The cost is hard to swallow, but that’s forgotten once you have one.

I think mine ran about $1600, which, in retrospect, isn’t exorbitant, if you consider it a long term investment or can sell it for 60% in a couple of years.

Yes, a rotisserie is in the near future. I’m trying to level the frame rails as the measurement reference for some major reconstruction. The car needs inner and outer rockers and floor braces, among other stuff before going on the rotisserie. For this phase, the body (what’s left of it) needs to stay on the frame.

This phase may take a while, so I’m thinking supports made of steel would be more consistent over time than lumber.

 

[charbar]

If I was doing it I would just run some tubing under the frame, tack weld it to the frame, and then have your jack stands either on your runways or jacking trays depending on where they will be out of your way. Further out on the runways would obviously be better for stability if they wont be in your way.

 

[BruceMc]

Seems some simple blocking inside the jack tray to bring it level with the runways would do it? The you'd have a flat surface the entire width to place your jackstands wherever you needed them.

 

[CraigStu]

I would put the jack stands out in the runways. Then a piece of steel tubing long enough to span the stands. Since it may be a while, I'd weld the tube to the top of the stands. Doesn't need to be a super structural amount of weld. A 1/2in bead on each side of the stand would be fine. You can cut through the welds w/ a 3-4in cutoff wheel when done and still have usable tubing and stands.

 

[MikeMalibu]

I would put the jack stands out in the runways. Then a piece of steel tubing long enough to span the stands. Since it may be a while, I'd weld the tube to the top of the stands. Doesn't need to be a super structural amount of weld. A 1/2in bead on each side of the stand would be fine. You can cut through the welds w/ a 3-4in cutoff wheel when done and still have usable tubing and stands.

Thanks for the suggestion. This would work for this phase of my project.

 

[MikeMalibu]

Thanks everyone for your input.

 

[05snopro440]

I'm about to do this with my Model A chassis. My plan is to do the idea with the steel tubing and jack stands, as steel tubing doesn't change with temperature and humidity as much as wood.

The additional thing I'm planning to do is run a heavy duty ratchet strap around the runway to hold the jack stand/tubing in place. For my purposes that will work well enough to do all my required chassis work.

 

[MikeMalibu]

I like your idea of using racket straps instead of tack welds