Jagged Soff-Cut control jonits

[biscuits]

My original plan was to densify the slab and be done with it but I'm not sure if my fragile sensibilities can stomach the butchered joints; which may lead me to diamond polishing into the aggregate in order to make them crisp.

Any other way for these joints to be cleaned-up while still keeping the concrete exposed?

I should have put a ruler next to the joint for reference but I was not thinking clearly. The cut was to be 1/8" and that should be the approximate size of the white joint-protector at the intersection of the pictured cuts.

The Soff-Cut machine was cutting within two hours of the finish and the slab was watered continuously with a sprinkler for seven days.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Densify, let cure and then fill your joints.

 

[stealman]

My control joints look just like the ones pictured. I would like to acid stain or dye the concrete then finnish it with a clear coat. Is the densifier sugested when doing this? Also, What would you sugest to fill the control joints with?

 

[biscuits]

Re: Jagged Soff-Cut control JOINTS

Densify, let cure and then fill your joints.

If I were a normal person I'd do just that. Unfortunately, trivial cosmetic issues affect me and I will probably obsess over the less-than-clean edges of the filled joints.

I'm considering taking a wet-saw to each side of the 1/8" cut. The depth of the original cut will remain at 1.25" but the two cosmetic cuts would be something closer to .33" and slightly angled towards the center.

Any thoughts on this or a similar type of solution?

 

[pauls340]

Biscuts, I like your idea of chamfering the edges with a wet saw however having used a few wetsaw's it would be physically impossible to be consistant on the cut. The water will make it difficult to see. Try to find a saw craddle?? As far as the actual cutting of concrete, your idea might work until you hit an aggregate stone on the edge. ACS might have an idea here. But if it works a nice quality joint filler like Seal Bond CS-5200 would work beautifully. this pic is of a 1" wide joint. IMO

 

[dcs Inc]

Use a crack chaser blade. It will widen the cut taking out the chipped edge. Use a 4" grinder with a straight edge. Easy to do. The crack chase blades come in several widths. I sell them for around $45.00 for a .375 width.

 

[joes169]

Soff-cut has both a round and 45 degree chamfer blade & shoe set-up just for their saws to take care of issues like this, but I don't think they're nearly wide enough to take care of joints that "un-raveled"....................

You can try to chase them with a tuckpointing blade as mentioned above, but it looks like those joints may be chipped for at least 1" wide in spots. Personally, I think I'd be looking into semi-rigid joint filler similar to this:

http://www.euclidchemical.com/product_detail.asp?cselect=261&id=117&pselect=236&tselect=288

 

[biscuits]

Thank you all for the detailed replies.

 

[biscuits]

Any thoughts on this advice:

You might look into concrete patching mortars
- perhaps the edges of saw cut can be filled in prior to putting a sealant
in the joint. There are high strength products available. I think that
would be cleaner looking. A 1" wide joint filler might wear a little
quicker.

 

[dcs Inc]

You'll see the patching and it will high light it even more. If you are going to coat it then it's a moot point. I'd still go with the crack chaser. Get a .500 (1/2") and round the edges. Fill it with a flexible joint filler, keeping just below the surface and they will go away. It will still not be as wide as a regular tooled joint when putting them in wet concrete.

You can get crazy with this and grind some crete in an area you can't see. Save the dust and mix it into a paste with an epoxy. Fill the joint (carefully), let dry and then recut them. A rounded edge would be the least expensive and have the best results removing just about all the rough edges. You're over thinking a small problem.

 

[pauls340]

I clicked on your pic to get a better view. I would do what DCS suggested. Set the crack-chase blade at a 1/4" deep and try it. It should work but every job is different. Also, I wasn't suggesting to cut that joint 1" wide in my first post.

 

[biscuits]

Unfortunately, it would take about a 1" wide cut to completely remove the rough edges.

 

[dcs Inc]

OK, My soft cut saw has a really thin blade. I've cut too early and had to go back and clean the chipped edges up. This has been my remedy. Good luck with what ever you do.

 

[biscuits]

OK, My soft cut saw has a really thin blade. I've cut too early and had to go back and clean the chipped edges up. This has been my remedy. Good luck with what ever you do.

I will most likely do exactly as you have recommended. If I am too **** to accept the areas that still show chipped edges after widening to .5", I guess I can always epoxy the floor.

Can you please tell me more about what you use as a straight edge in these situations? My initial thought is to kneel on top of a board.

 

[rburke65]

So educate a "non concrete" guy......what cause this saw to produce such a jagged edge in the first place. I will be having a floor place around Labor day and would rather not have this condition when they cut my floor. How do I avoid this....what to look for.....what to ask of the finishers? Thanks guys.....gals.

 

[dcs Inc]

biscuits, I use anything that has a straight edge on it. 1x4 works well. I have a 12' piece of 1/4"x2" aluminum I like using because of the low profile. Yes keep a knee on it and even someone on the other end to keep it stable.

rburke65, when using a regular saw it chips on early concrete. Even a soft cut will chew the edges if too early. They have different blades for them. One has a slight bevel that wont do that.

 

[stealman]

biscuits, I use anything that has a straight edge on it. 1x4 works well. I have a 12' piece of 1/4"x2" aluminum I like using because of the low profile. Yes keep a knee on it and even someone on the other end to keep it stable.

rburke65, when using a regular saw it chips on early concrete. Even a soft cut will chew the edges if too early. They have different blades for them. One has a slight bevel that wont do that.

When using a angle grinder and a stright edge what part of the grinder runs along the stright edge? My grinder does not have a fence. And what about the depth, Do you need something the control it?