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Jamming door locks fix?

wcp0611

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Rockvale, TN
So since I've had my shop done in 2016, I've replaced the locks twice as they keep seizing. The hole on the handle and the deadbolt become almost impossible to put a key into. They fight you the whole way in. Is there a fix for this? I need to be able to lock the door when leaving and know that I can get in the next time I'm there.

I'm assuming all of this stems from the fact that they are facing west in my yard and get rain blowing at them the most during a storm.

I ask this because my second set of locks are now seizing and I need a better solution that just to replace them again.

I want to build a canopy for the door/entry system but that's not in the budget right now.
 
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dogdog

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I don't know what locks you have... usually if it is jammed that bad.. it's either the pins are sticking worn, or the spring in the pins are weak, or foreign matters in the pins... causing it not to raise properly..

what I usually do if I am too lazy to break out the pins and clean.. just take out the cylinder or the lock inverted it, squirt in a lot of wd40... run the key in and out a lot of times to work the wd40 into the pins.... after that I dunk the lock (usually just the cylinder) into the ultra sonic cleaner for a few cycle ... dry and re-lube...


works every time for me... yes you are suppose to use dry lubes...
 

RKA

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It's odd that 2 went bad, but I would start by lubricating the lock. 3 in 1 makes a dry lube for locks, and as much as I hate products marketed for single purposes, this one is nice to keep on hand. A quick spray, then work it in with a key and it will dry out and the lock will operate as smooth as silk. It's probably been close to 2 years since I last lubed it and I'm just starting to get a small amount of resistance, so it's ready for another squirt. And this is an exterior door that gets a fair amount of rain, snow, sun, etc. The lock isn't protected in any way from the elements.
 

The Cobbler

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what kind of deadbolts?
a good brass cylinder is very long lived without a lot of maintenance.
are you using some el cheapo lock with a cast zinc or something cylinder.
also no on the graphite too. a light lubricant such as WD40 or something is all my locksmith says to use .
 

SGKent

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if you have electronic locks graphite will kill them. In its day it was used because it didn't get gummy when cold. Today it is not the best lock lube.
 

rlitman

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Don't use graphite is what the locksmith told me. Use a light lube instead. Dry graphite is both a lube and an abrasive....

Graphite also promotes corrosion. Medeco suggests only lubricating their locks with Fluid Film. I tend to go with CRC Heavy Duty Silicone spray.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXKZUG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Walmart has been my cheapest source, as they carry the bigger cans.

Anyway, you want something that repels water.

Make sure you're installing with the pins in the lock facing up. When you insert the key, the teeth need to be facing up. Good Schlage keyway will go a long way towards solving the problem. Qwikset or similar jam up a lot easier. Lubricate with dry lubricant as previously recommended, after spraying silicone type spray in as a cleaner/solvent to washout the old residue.

There's a good point here. Water drains downwards, and water draining through a lock will carry dirt. For this reason, you ideally want your pins on the top of the lock, so they stay clean. That's not always an option though. My front storm door for example was reversed to be left handed, and the only way to do that was to flip the lock. That lock requires cleaning far more frequently than my others. Cleaning consists of flushing with lighter fluid followed by silicone.
 

Zeke

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Make sure you're installing with the pins in the lock facing up. When you insert the key, the teeth need to be facing up. Good Schlage keyway will go a long way towards solving the problem. Qwikset or similar jam up a lot easier. Lubricate with dry lubricant as previously recommended, after spraying silicone type spray in as a cleaner/solvent to washout the old residue.

I re-key a lot of locks and the difference in construction between the 2 homeowner brands is minimal. If the lock is functioning properly it doesn't matter which way the teeth face. The problem here with the OP's locks as he describes it, is undoubtedly dirt and the pins are hanging up.

Taking the cylinder out and cleaning thoroughly is the answer. No need to remove pins. Brake cleaner, a little gentle air, works good followed by a lube. I have no problem with WD 40. Remember, the keys go in your pocket so you don't want a lot of oil on them if you're wearing your Sunday best.
 

DHCrocks

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I know everyone's going to cringe, but WD40 actually works. I don't really get why people hate on it so much., its the duct tape of lubricants. I've used it many times on many different locks and it always freed up a stuck lock. I don't see any negatives to it either, even after many months the locks still work perfectly with no sticking.
 
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uscarry45

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They make spray lubricant specifically for locks so that should be on your list of things to try

If it were me I would think about a commercial lockset that designed for exterior use and designed to be lock and unlocked multiple times a day. Many commercial doors face into the weather so their has to be an option that will work for you

Being this is garage journal i am intrigued with a dust cap or the like. You could easily buy and uncut key that go into the lock but not unlock it and fabricate a rubber piece to connect or even a cork of the right size would do the trick. If you are concerned about asthetics i am sure someone can think of something more creative.

What about a storm door that you dont lock but just adds protection to your door and in turn the door lock?

What about a different type of lock such as a magnetic lock system? This would be less susceptible to the elements?

What about a good junk yard guard dog Rottweiler a french mastiff would do the trick - ok now i am just trying to be funny!
 

Pate

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Being a locksmith I can tell you that graphite of any kind is a bad idea. Use a silicone based lube with Teflon. Super Lube, Triflow, Houdini, etc.
 

PoorOwner

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I use bicycle chain lube. Put it on the key and work it in.
No more issues. By the way this seem to only happen to cheap $15 locks
 

rayra

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I know everyone's going to cringe, but WD40 actually works. I don't really get why people hate on it so much., its the duct tape of lubricants. I've used it many times on many different locks and it always freed up a stuck lock. I don't see any negatives to it either, even after many months the locks still work perfectly with no sticking.


Folks usually hate on it because they try to use it as a lubricant and it gums up in the wrong environments.
It's pretty much perfect for what the OP wants, if it's put in a non-sticking lock in the first place.
The brass in there is already oxidized and is going to need a penetrating oil to really get it free and won't ever really work smoothly without a lot of exercising of the mechanism and yes some graphite.
But if you start with the new lock and a spritz of WD-40 in the mechanism a couple times a year / before the wet season, it will work pretty much forever.

I've got some Masterlock combo locks I've used since boot camp in '87, STILL use (and custom ordered a bunch more with the same combo, at almost no markup, because that combo is seared in my brain) them outside in SoCal weather and I shoot them thru the hasp hole right into the mechanism with WD and they still work great, 32yrs and counting.
 

foodie

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Being a locksmith I can tell you that graphite of any kind is a bad idea. Use a silicone based lube with Teflon. Super Lube, Triflow, Houdini, etc.
Thank you Pate!!!! I had the same problem with my lock on my one door at home a Primus. I could lock it but it would not unlock. Tried the Super Lube, on the key, then sprayed some in the lock itself,...works as smooth as butter, locking and unlocking the door!! :beer:
 

rlitman

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Being a locksmith I can tell you that graphite of any kind is a bad idea. Use a silicone based lube with Teflon. Super Lube, Triflow, Houdini, etc.

FYI, it was somewhere on this site that I learned about Hexagonal Boron Nitride as a lock lubricant. It is more slippery than graphite, is white (so it doesn't stain your clothing), and doesn't lead to corrosion or wear like graphite. It's also MUCH better than teflon.

If you want a dry lock lube, you might want to look at this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MICROLUBRO...hBN-Powder-ULTRA-FINE-0-5-micron/271324539638
 

LS6 Tommy

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Being a locksmith I can tell you that graphite of any kind is a bad idea. Use a silicone based lube with Teflon. Super Lube, Triflow, Houdini, etc.

X2. I have my Dad's old tube of graphite powder, but it hasn't been used since a locksmith told me the same thing. Super Lube gets the nod for all my locks that are exposed to weather.

Tommy
 
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Pate

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Graphite was the standard for Lube on old wafer style locks, but modern locks have too tight of tolerances for that. It also attacks moisture and eventually packs up in the back of keyway bad enough to stop the key from going all the way in.

Super Lube Dri-Film is also a great product. It goes on wet and dries too a fine white powder. It doesn’t attract dust so it’s great for hinges, garage doors, etc.
 
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wcp0611

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Rockvale, TN
To follow up, I went the route of least work and spritzed some PB Blaster in the holes and ran my key in and out for a while. It glides in like butter now. I'll update if they start to bind again. I didn't know you could lube lock cylinders until now. Thanks guys.
 

bulletpruf

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Good tech in this thread. I didn't realize there was so much controversy involved in selecting something to lube locks with. I'm going to use silicone spray.
 
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