Jaw gap in needle nose
- Thread starter dogdad
- Start date
d.mcfarland
Well-known member
I guess that design eliminates bad units. It almost ensures the tip (where you need them to touch) will always work even if the forging isn't absolutely perfect.
barrybeefburger
Well-known member
I was told that they make them this way, apparently, its to do with the flex in the nose of the plier, if you only need a light grip the tips still touch and always will, but if you grip them tighter then they "come together" further down.
It make sense to me, but how true it is...
It make sense to me, but how true it is...
dadsEH
Well-known member
Stick em in a vise and bend shut
anndel
Well-known member
Send them back/return them
Sine Swept
Well-known member
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- Feb 2, 2014
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- 440
Buy Klein needlenose pliers.
I love my Knipex but not thrilled with either set of needlenose and electrical needlenose that I have. The first pair I do not like as they do not grab onto my work piece. The finish on the second pair have rusted up to **** I hate to look at them let alone put them to work.
I love my Knipex but not thrilled with either set of needlenose and electrical needlenose that I have. The first pair I do not like as they do not grab onto my work piece. The finish on the second pair have rusted up to **** I hate to look at them let alone put them to work.
Deej-79
Well-known member
This is what I've always heard too
r_olson_06
Well-known member
I bent my knipex as well bending a plastic knockout out of an electrical box. Mine a alot worse that those in the picture.
Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk
Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk
Good point. I have some pliers, the cutters are worn, and sharpening them only makes matters worse because the gap widens and the edges don't meet...
bareass172
Well-known member
I absolutely love every set of Knipex I own with the needlenose being the one exception. I actually wrote a post about it like 2 years ago. The cutters and other pliers are all incredible, but my needlenose don't touch well and they flex like crazy making it hard to truly grip things.
Klein, Snap On and Channellock needle nose pliers all manage to close tightly at the tips. Their pliers with cutters all manage to have the tips and cutters close simultaneously. (or the tips close with just a sliver of gap at the cutters so that increased pressure completes the closing of the cutter edges.).
I can't believe Knipex would design needle nose pliers with gaps in the jaws to allow for future sharpening of the cutters
I must of got a pair of poor quality escapes.
I can't believe Knipex would design needle nose pliers with gaps in the jaws to allow for future sharpening of the cutters
I must of got a pair of poor quality escapes.
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rlitman
Well-known member
Klein, Snap On and Channellock needle nose pliers all manage to close tightly at the tips. Their pliers with cutters all manage to have the tips and cutters close simultaneously.
I can't believe Knipex would design needle nose pliers with gaps in the jaws to allow for future sharpening of the cutters
I must of got a pair of poor quality escapes.
Look up the Snap On 96CF. These have the same length jaws as their needle nose companions, and are designed with a huge gap on the inside when closed.
And they're awesome pliers to boot.
The gap gives better odds that there will be more surface contact when gripping something as the jaws will be parallel to each other when holding something the thickness of a small gauge wire instead of when fully closed.
At least that's my guess, I also wouldn't be surprised if it was due to cover manufacturing imperfections like previously mentioned.
At least that's my guess, I also wouldn't be surprised if it was due to cover manufacturing imperfections like previously mentioned.
Here's another image of the Knipex. It appears there is nothing along the jaws that make contact. (inconsistent gap). Only the cutter edges make positive contact:
These are SO. The tapered gap ensures that whatever you grip at the very tip will get as much holding pressure as your hand can apply.
These are SO. The tapered gap ensures that whatever you grip at the very tip will get as much holding pressure as your hand can apply.
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Here are a couple more. Channelock is very similar to SO. Positive contact at tip and cutters with tapered gap in jaws:
Klein Journeymans are truely parallel when closed with absolutely no gap anywhere:
My $.02 worth:
- Go with SO if you need absolute maximum holding pressure at the tip. The tiny gap in the cutters will allow you to apply lots of pressure at the tips. (the talon grip serration pattern will also help with holding).
- Go with Klein if parallel holding is important. They'll grip thin materials inward from the tip.
- The Channelocks lack a slight gap at the cutter edge which will limit the force you can apply to the jaw tips.
- Knipex ?????
Klein Journeymans are truely parallel when closed with absolutely no gap anywhere:
My $.02 worth:
- Go with SO if you need absolute maximum holding pressure at the tip. The tiny gap in the cutters will allow you to apply lots of pressure at the tips. (the talon grip serration pattern will also help with holding).
- Go with Klein if parallel holding is important. They'll grip thin materials inward from the tip.
- The Channelocks lack a slight gap at the cutter edge which will limit the force you can apply to the jaw tips.
- Knipex ?????
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Tooling Around
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- Oct 23, 2015
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- 70
I've just bought some new Knipex pliers that also have a gap between the cutters. I've sent an email to Knipex UK so I'll see if they'll exchange them.
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Why is that a problem?? Do the cutters close all the way with pressure?
You want the jaw tips to make initial contact with a very slight gap at the cutters. Then when you squeeze the handles the cutter gap should close the rest of the way.
I have a pair of Knipex 31 11 160, they're fairly thin and the jaws will flex easily with normal or high grip pressure.
If they didnt contact at the tip first, with a good gap near the pivot, they would not be able to apply much gripping pressure on thin/small objects if the area just ahead of the pivot closed right away. After the gap near the pivot closes any further squeezing is not transmitted to the tip...A mechanical short-circuit.
They also would not keep gripping well over time as they gradually span out, bend, or wear.
Needle nose with cutters... I avoid them completely, wont buy them at all except for those with wire stripers and crimps, the dedicated electrician variety.
I'd kill off a cheap pair quickly, whereas a good pair of non-cutter needle nose and a pair of 6-8" dedicated cutters will last many many years and be more capable and versatile for the duration.
They might be handy, but plier/cutter combinations are just weaker and rarely mesh perfectly - either the tip area hits first leaving a gap in the cutter, or the cutter hits first and leaves a gap at the tip, made worse as the tip grip/knurling wears down.
I have a nice pair of 8" Mac needle nose/cutters that have become nearly worthless (in a short time) with a visible gap at the tip when closed. They wont hold a sheet of paper at the tips nowadays.
I do have a pair of Wiha 6.5" needle nose/cutter's that came free with a set of screwdrivers. That particular pair is excellent, the cutter edges come together just barely off-center and they cut really well, but the edges still bypass each other enough that full pressure makes it all the way to the tip with a little gap between the tip and the cutter.
They're made in Taiwan for Wiha and are very precisely ground for their $20'ish price tag. Just as good or better than Knipex's finish work.
The Wiha's are a really good "disposable" pair perfect for a go-bag or light around-the-house use.
If they didnt contact at the tip first, with a good gap near the pivot, they would not be able to apply much gripping pressure on thin/small objects if the area just ahead of the pivot closed right away. After the gap near the pivot closes any further squeezing is not transmitted to the tip...A mechanical short-circuit.
They also would not keep gripping well over time as they gradually span out, bend, or wear.
Needle nose with cutters... I avoid them completely, wont buy them at all except for those with wire stripers and crimps, the dedicated electrician variety.
I'd kill off a cheap pair quickly, whereas a good pair of non-cutter needle nose and a pair of 6-8" dedicated cutters will last many many years and be more capable and versatile for the duration.
They might be handy, but plier/cutter combinations are just weaker and rarely mesh perfectly - either the tip area hits first leaving a gap in the cutter, or the cutter hits first and leaves a gap at the tip, made worse as the tip grip/knurling wears down.
I have a nice pair of 8" Mac needle nose/cutters that have become nearly worthless (in a short time) with a visible gap at the tip when closed. They wont hold a sheet of paper at the tips nowadays.
I do have a pair of Wiha 6.5" needle nose/cutter's that came free with a set of screwdrivers. That particular pair is excellent, the cutter edges come together just barely off-center and they cut really well, but the edges still bypass each other enough that full pressure makes it all the way to the tip with a little gap between the tip and the cutter.
They're made in Taiwan for Wiha and are very precisely ground for their $20'ish price tag. Just as good or better than Knipex's finish work.
The Wiha's are a really good "disposable" pair perfect for a go-bag or light around-the-house use.
The Toolest Guy
Banned
The gap at the end is to allow the cutter to operate correctly.
How often do you need to grip something that is less than 0.5mm?
Using a feeler gauge all of my Japanese Engineer brand pliers have a gap at the tip of less than 0.25mm.
All of these pliers have the cutters contact first to ensure proper cutting.
I also have 2 pairs of no name (supercheap auto) pliers. One pair closes together and one pair closes first at the tip, leaving a gap at the cutters. They are different designs and I doubt that either was deliberate....
How often do you need to grip something that is less than 0.5mm?
Using a feeler gauge all of my Japanese Engineer brand pliers have a gap at the tip of less than 0.25mm.
All of these pliers have the cutters contact first to ensure proper cutting.
I also have 2 pairs of no name (supercheap auto) pliers. One pair closes together and one pair closes first at the tip, leaving a gap at the cutters. They are different designs and I doubt that either was deliberate....