So here is what I was thinking. I have a leaking freeze plug on my 67 Plymouth it is right behind the motor mount. Even with removing the mount I don't see any way I can change the plug with the engine in the car. I am planning to pull the motor next winter and pull it apart. At the very least all new gaskets, freezer plugs, oil pump, clutch, etc. Work is busy and I have several other projects that need to be done. I just want to drive the car once maybe twice a week to work. So I was thinking can I put some JB Weld or similar product around the leaking freeze plug to ge me through the summer and fall? Can not remeber the last time I used JB Weld. If it did seal the leak can I easily get it off when it comes time to replace the freeze plug? Any suggestions other than to just do the job right and pull the motor. I usually don't like to do repairs like this but just don't have the time right now.
JB Weld Engine Block
- Thread starter mopar66
- Start date
mayday0017
Well-known member
why not put a jack under the motor, or use an engine lift and just pick motor up, remove the motor mount, and replace the freeze plug? Do it once and do it right and don't look back... that is my motto anyways...
mayday I don't think I can get enough room even with motor mount removed to replace it. With the front K frame in the way it is next to impossible. I should just pull the motor even if it is to just change the one freeze plug and put it back in. Doing a half *** job on a repair is really not my style.
2fat2fly
Well-known member
If it's leaking now that means it's probably rusted. You really need to lift the engine and do it right so you don't get stranded by it completely letting go while you're driving.
mtwaterguy
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- Nov 16, 2007
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- 3,518
^^^^^^^^^^
Do it right or let it sit til you can
Do it right or let it sit til you can
Rodhotz
Well-known member
You can get to the plug it is just a pain, get it out and put in one of those rubber bolt in ones. try it on a 64 if you think the 67 is hard. You have to remember also that their is going to be more that are just waiting to go! you could pull it and replace all of them in a day with no problem.
Milton Shaw
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Do it right, too much area rusted out for JB Weld to be able to hold 15 psi, and you will find this out some Saturday night 200 miles from home. The air driven installation tools from matco/SnapOn will install freeze plugs in a lot of places you wouldn't think they would.
bcook07
Well-known member
If you can get the old one out but cant drive the new one in, then the rubber one with the bolt is definately the way to go for temp fix.
Capt Chrysler
Well-known member
No Biggie!
Even if you have to lay on your back. I used this set for years.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=675585&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
Sure the heck didn't pay that much back in the day!
A socket and a pry bar will work to install some.
What Body and engine?
Capt. Chrysler
PS: PLEASE! NO JB WELD!
Even if you have to lay on your back. I used this set for years.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=675585&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
Sure the heck didn't pay that much back in the day!
A socket and a pry bar will work to install some.
What Body and engine?
Capt. Chrysler
PS: PLEASE! NO JB WELD!
Outlawmws
Well-known member
How much is it leaking; a lot, or a trickle?
If a trickle, get a tube of Alumaseal from any car parts store. What it does is clog the small holes and oxidizes (I think they used to call it a "cold solder joint") the powdered aluminum in place. It works well on any non-flexing pinholes. Anything that flexes however, (rubber hose radiator seam, etc...) it won't work. bigger holes, again, it just washes through.
For a temp fix until you tear it down, it can work.
If a trickle, get a tube of Alumaseal from any car parts store. What it does is clog the small holes and oxidizes (I think they used to call it a "cold solder joint") the powdered aluminum in place. It works well on any non-flexing pinholes. Anything that flexes however, (rubber hose radiator seam, etc...) it won't work. bigger holes, again, it just washes through.
For a temp fix until you tear it down, it can work.
mayday0017
Well-known member
Might just be me, but I believe any type of "stop leak" is only intended for when you are stranded in the middle of no where and need to get home. All of these products should never be used to "fix" anything because they normally have side effects... Don't believe in this theory go open up a tire someone put fix a flat in 10,000 miles ago....
But then again this is just my belief, lots of people do these things...
But then again this is just my belief, lots of people do these things...
At this point it is only a small amount. When I look at the rest of the plugs they look ok. Although I can't see the one on the opposite side of the engine behind the motor mount. Going to ask around and see if anyone has a similar tool to the one that Capt had a link too. Depending on the length it might work. If not I am going to try the rubber expansion plug. So no JB Weld for me. If that does not work I am going to take a vacation day and pull the motor and put in all new freeze plugs and put on new oil pan gasket, timing cover gasket etc and drop it back in. Which i know is the right thing to do. The car is a 67 Belvedere GTX 440 4spd.
As I mentioned earlier I would never do this type of repair normally. I am usually the one telling everyone to do the right thing and fix it right the 1st time. But the last couple of years between work, working on my house and every day life seems like no time to work on my things. Now I am not complaining I feel very lucky to have a job that is busy and a house and toys to work on. I know most here probably have the same problem either not enough money or time or both. No time, no money, no energy could be post of its own.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
He's looking for a reasonably clean temp fix. If you have no experience with Alumaseal, don't even bother trying to compare it to "Fix a Flat" or even the old radiator standby, Bars Leaks, which is utter trash.
The only place the powder reacts is where it can react with air. Other than that it remains in suspension in the coolant or water (if you are using a vehicle that old...) once reacted, I've seen it make a seal that lasted the remaining life of a vehicle, in some cases over 5 years, and I have used it on at least a dozen old junkers to "get them by" I stated it's limitation, and that is flexing holes (seams and hoses) and large holes.
Rodhotz
Well-known member
With rust it will be there till it comes through then it is to late, if you look at any rust you will see a small pin hole on the surface but turn it over and it will be at least 10x bigger tapering towards the pin hole. i guarantee their are more that are ready to go, start poking them with a screwdriver and you will find the weak ones.
Capt Chrysler, same set i have but only paid like 90 bucks.
Capt Chrysler, same set i have but only paid like 90 bucks.
May Pop
Well-known member
I also feel J B would be a horse **** repair BUT in a pinch I think it will work. The trick will be to clean it extra well and fill the whole freeze plug with the epoxy. Wait 24 or what ever it says on the package. I have repaired fuel level leaks in gas tanks that have held for years.
The paint rust and leaking coolant MUST be cleaned out first. The spray dry with brake clean. Fill the whole plug about 1/2 inch deep or more. You may need to build a dam to hold it in. That way it can hold pressure in.
Ron
OUTLAW that alumaleak is great stuff. I had a V8 vega and the fan hit the radiator racing one nite. I added a tube of that stuff and it sealed up at least 20 spots where the tubes had been eaten through.
The paint rust and leaking coolant MUST be cleaned out first. The spray dry with brake clean. Fill the whole plug about 1/2 inch deep or more. You may need to build a dam to hold it in. That way it can hold pressure in.
Ron
OUTLAW that alumaleak is great stuff. I had a V8 vega and the fan hit the radiator racing one nite. I added a tube of that stuff and it sealed up at least 20 spots where the tubes had been eaten through.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
A tube of it is in each of my vehicles just for that reason. Fair warning though; either keep it in the original blister pack, or use some electrical tape to seal a loose tube so the caps don't pop off. an opened tube is MESSY!
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kald
Well-known member
JB weld is fine for the temp repair. He is pulling the engine later anyway.
The problem with any of the radiator additives it that they can be abrasive while in suspension and shorten the life of the water pump impeller and pump seal which requires coolant to keep the seal lubricated. With that said they are useful and I've used them in the past.
The problem with any of the radiator additives it that they can be abrasive while in suspension and shorten the life of the water pump impeller and pump seal which requires coolant to keep the seal lubricated. With that said they are useful and I've used them in the past.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Do you have anything to back that up for Alumaseal, because in 40 years of using and recommending Alumaseal I've never encountered a case of this happening.
Just put a rubber plug in it or fix it right!! The rubber plug will out last any hokey poke repair, you'll spend more time trying to patch a $2 freeze plug than it would take to knock it out and stick a rubber plug in and tighten it.
Well I put aside my work last night for a few hours and dug into the leak. The motor mount was a pain in the *** to take out. I have done them before when replacing a worn mount and forgot what a pain they are. I stopped on the way home and picked up a expansion plug made by Dorman and some Alumaseal. Once I got the mount off it was clear I was going to have to use the expansion plug. Although it was not leaking that bad I knew by the rust and corrosion on the outside it was rusted twice as bad on the inside. When I hit the freeze plug with a rod to pry it out I poked a hole in it. Got it out pretty easy and cleaned up the block and put the expansion plug in. By then it was getting late so I called it a night. This weekend I will fill it back with fluid and check for leaks and hopefully all goes well. Still have to put the mount and other items back on but I should driving it this weekend. Obvioulsy as someone mentioned if one is bad the rest of them are probably not far behind. I don't remember ever seeing the expansion plugs in the past. But I have always put new plugs in when I had engines out or pulled them if they had a leaky plug. Thanks for all the replys! I got just what I needed a fix for the leaky plug and found a new item for the in car tool bag (Alumaseal). Here is a quick pic of the car. It looks way better in the pic than in person. It really needs a paint job and a bunch of other work.
Attachments
2fat2fly
Well-known member
I think she's a beautiful car.
Rodhotz
Well-known member
Man that is a B body i was thinking you had an A body, try one of those if you think yous was hard! I got a nice 67 date code 440 if ya want to improve it a little.
kald
Well-known member
No I don't have a "link" and while I'm reasonbly sure it's not as abrasive as casting sand or silicate dropout it certainly more abrasive than the water/coolant mix which lubes the pump seal.
It's a useful product, just ask GM, but with anything it's not perfect.
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The outer side of the freeze plugs usually always look fine because they RUST from the INSIDE out....because the water is on the INSIDE.
David Paul
Well-known member
Ummm, this thread is 12 years old….lol