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Jeep Hardtop Hoist Build

rockcrawler

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Jan 11, 2013
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930
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Dallas, TX
I’m just learning to weld and I need to fabricate a bracket assembly to mount a hoist to for my LJ hardtop. I’m not really a fabricator, but I want to learn to build my own stuff. Hardtop is about 150 lbs and I already have a hoist (400 lb electric) and hanger assembly. I have red steel cee purlins under roof. I need some help with ideas on a design. Complete weight with top, hoist and brackets should be around 200 lbs.

1. Will one cee purlin be strong enough to hold the weight of the hardtop, brackets and hoist?

2. Will I need to run something between two purlins and mount the hoist in the middle?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Hoist and roof pics included.

Welder is a Hobart Handler 140
 

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matt_i

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I would try for something like back-to-back unistrut (strut channel) and "window" clamps with the square U-bolt and bent plate that pinches another steel part. Use it across two Cees and try to get the pinch-plate as close to the vertical leg of the Cee as you can.

Then fabricate your hoist hanger bracket for wherever it makes sense.
 
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rockcrawler

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I would try for something like back-to-back unistrut (strut channel) and "window" clamps with the square U-bolt and bent plate that pinches another steel part. Use it across two Cees and try to get the pinch-plate as close to the vertical leg of the Cee as you can.

Then fabricate your hoist hanger bracket for wherever it makes sense.



Not exactly sure what some of those things are, but I’ll research. Thanks for the ideas.

Since the purlins are not level due to roof pitch, I’m assuming that I’ll have to do a drop leg of some sort. I’ll have to to keep the hoist level or the cable will bunch up on one side of the spool. Or, I guess I could weld up a triangle shaped bracket to attach the hoist to the unistrut. That would probably be easier.
 
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rockcrawler

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There are a couple of brands, I'm most familiar with Eaton/Cooper/B-Line strut channel.

The clamp I'm referring to is a B441-22AZN

https://www.gordonelectricsupply.co...dmJhkI2_6UT2KUldljWqzAGF2ROij8LcaAkNWEALw_wcB

Ok, I see. Would those clamps be just as strong as bolting the unistrut directly to the Cee? Or, best not to drill holes in the Cee? I’m assuming the bends in the unistrut makes it pretty strong. A little worried about it bending. But, I guess I could mount the hoist to one side instead of in the middle.
 

zippyslug31

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Central Oregon
Years ago I owned a CJ7 w/ a hard top. Each spring I'd swap it for my soft top/each fall it would go back on. I just had a couple of pulleys rigged on a branch of a tree. Sling the rope up thru the hard top, cradling it evenly where needed. Using a block and tackle setup, you can lift it off the ground by yourself pretty easily, and then tie it off to suspend it. Drive under it and lower it down. Pretty easy, if not a bit ghetto.
Just wanted to offer that up. Don't discount the simple solutions!
 

matt_i

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Ok, I see. Would those clamps be just as strong as bolting the unistrut directly to the Cee? Or, best not to drill holes in the Cee? I’m assuming the bends in the unistrut makes it pretty strong. A little worried about it bending. But, I guess I could mount the hoist to one side instead of in the middle.

The back-to-back unistrut is pretty stout. There's engineering data if you really want to research it but I see it holding up big sprinkler trunk lines and such.

You could probably drill the Cee but my personal preference is not to drill the building steel if you don't have to. Best to drill beams on their neutral axis which in that case is the middle-height of the vertical leg, could be buried in the foam...

For 150 lbs, small 1/4-20 hardware would be very adequate though.
 
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