Jet Cabinet Table Saw

[Pen & Wrench]

I’m looking at a Jet 10 inch cabinet table saw to possibly buy. It’s a model JTAS-10-1, Stock Number 708510. I have only seen pictures so far, but it appears to be a pretty decent saw. It has a 3 hp motor, 220 volt With 52 inch cutting capacity. From what I am told the fence is similar to a Biesemeyer fence. It has a set up to put a router in the extended table to the right of the blade. Does anyone know if this is a decent saw? I also understand this exact model is not produced anymore, and that it used to be compared to a Delta Unisaw. I always planned on buying a SawStop, but if I can get this bought reasonably, and if it is a decent saw, maybe I will buy it and save the expense of a new 3 hp Professional SawStop. Or if this is a saw to avoid, I’d appreciate knowing that as well. I’ve had a Delta 10 inch saw that has the old Delta miter saw motor (brush type motor) with a fairly narrow table, except that it has a homemade table extension. It doesn’t really like cutting stuff over 3/4”. I plan to build some furniture and could use a better saw than the one I currently have. If anyone can give me some feedback on what they think of a saw like this, it will be much appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Renegade1LI]

3 hp is good, is it a left or right tilt? Left tilt is preferable, the router lift is a nice feature too. I believe it's a knockoff on the powermatic 66, it's a simple saw easy to repair & set up, for the right price I would buy it. There's nothing like ripping on a heavy powerfull saw with a good fence.

 

[rieferman]

Price? Also search sawmill creek and lumber jocks for reviews

 

[Pen & Wrench]

I believe it is a right tilt, but I will verify when I look at it. Thanks for the info!

 

[Masheen365]

From the picture it looks like a right tilt, the adjustment handle is on the left. I have a saw extremely similar to this one and I love it! I believe mine is the JTAS-10XL-1. I don’t have a good picture for reference of my setup but it’s nothing fancy. It’s an older saw and as such doesn’t have some of the newer safety features that are standard now, specifically a riving knife. That is my only complaint. I use a micro jig splitter to help but I’d much prefer a true riving knife. The 3 HP motor is awesome and I haven’t put anything through it yet that it struggled with. Admittedly, I haven’t put it through it’s paces with 3/4” plywood, but it handled some 4/4 hard maple with zero issue. I built the extension table and plan to add a router insert plate next in the next few weeks, so you are money and time ahead there.

The only complaint I have so far is that the arbor nut is hard to get off. It binds a bit so after you break it loose you have to keep after it with a wrench until it is all the way off. That’s a little frustrating when swapping between dado stacks and blades.

For price reference, I paid $800 for mine last year. I went to pick it up in Jacksonville, FL and the guy threw in an old dado stack he had laying around for nothing more than some conversation.

 

[PCustoms]

Good saw, pretty sure I have the exact one minus the router setup.

Great power, smooth once you dial it in and accurate/consistent. I picked mine up about 8 years ago with a mobile base, forest dado stack and a tenoning jig for $800

 

[nadogail]

The pleasure of taking a new tool home and making it your own is in great.
I really enjoy taking several “ good enough” tools home and making them mine with cash left over.
My saw was purchased from a bankrupt contractor for cash just under the nose of the creditor who intended to repossess it. I have been using that saw for almost 50 years.

 

[Firstram]

The only complaint I have so far is that the arbor nut is hard to get off. It binds a bit so after you break it loose you have to keep after it with a wrench until it is all the way off. That’s a little frustrating when swapping between dado stacks and blades.

The nut could be the wrong one but, it would only take a few minutes to loosen that fit with some lapping compound.

 

[Dumber than lumber]

I believe it is a right tilt, but I will verify when I look at it. Thanks for the info!

I have one. Excellent saw. I bought mine from a woodworker’s widow. If yours has the upgraded Jet fence (Xacta Fence?) I think that is a bonus.
Mine is right tilt.

 

[Pen & Wrench]

I am going to go look at the saw today. It has a mobile base, and it appears it may be a router lift in the table. The guy selling it wants $600. The only concerns I have is that it is not a Saw Stop and the issue that it doesn't have a riving knife, but the price and what's included seems to be pretty tempting compared to what I would have to spend for the new equivalent with a Saw Stop.

 

[glentre]

From my experience as an architectural woodworking business owner, my opionion is that the Jet equipment is kind of between the cheap quality of big box store homeowner machines and the commercial lines. Certainly a good choice for a homeowner if it's not beat to death.

Glen

 

[mike93lx]

I'd jump at that for $600 and I don't have space for it.

You should be able to add a riving knife.

That said, if you really want the safety feature of the saw stop, stop shopping for anything else and just get one. You'll be thinking about it all the time if you don't

 

[Renegade1LI]

600$ is a no brainier, could always flip it. The key to table saw safety is in using the correct cutting aides, use feather against the table and fence as much as possible, they make a huge difference. Always use push blocks and sticks, keep the guard on as much as possible and i have a yellow mark before the blade as a visual aide. I recently added a power feeder, completely covers the blade and gives excellent cut quality.

 

[jar944]

In today's market 600 is a bargain.

 

[manwithtools]

In today's market 600 is a bargain.

Agreed! BTW, Jet and Powermatic have been owned by the same holding company for years. Not a thing wrong with that saw. I had the left tilt version for 15 years and never a problem.

 

[Bent Handle]

$600 you better be running not walking otherwise it’s going to be gone. If money is no object, go buy whatever you want and don’t look back.

 

[Jayman17]

I agree that’s a great deal especially with the extension wing set up for a router table and possibly a router lift included. You will love the 3 hp motor compared to what you have now.
A cabinet type SawStop saw will be big $$$.

Jay

 

[PoorUB]

$600?? If you don't buy it I will be over and slap you along side the head!

The Jet is a good saw. It was on my short list of saws to buy when I found my Unisaw. I would take a good look at the arbor and make sure the threads are good. The blade should be snug all the way to the end of the threads. The threads are Acme and should have flats on top.

Unless the saw looks rough and abused buy it! It will be as good as Unisaw. The best part is Jet is a strong company and still building tools. Delta is a fragment of it's former self and many parts for Unisaws are getting hard to come by. As something as simple as the plastic cursor for a Delta Unifence is unavailable. Delta was bought out by the same Chinese conglomerate that owns Ryobi and Milwaukee tools. Jet is Asian too, but IMO they are a step up over Delta at this point in time.

There was a saw for sale here that looked like someone took a flap wheel on a 4-1/2" grinder and cleaned the rust off the top. Ruined it as far as I was concerned!

I looked over the Sawstop but I just can't justify $5,000 for table saw for messing around with.

Here is my Unisaw,

 

[Pen & Wrench]

Well, I bought the saw for $600. It included a Jet ExataLift Router Lift made by Jessem. There is a very small amount of rust on the cast iron table, but not very much and it can be cleaned up. I will follow up with a couple extra pictures once I get it set up like I want it to be. I haven't turned it on but it appears to be a good deal. The guy I bought it from is a salt of the earth kind of guy, and he never used this saw very much at all, I think it might outlast me if I take good care of it. Unloading it was a bit of a project but all went well.

 

[PCustoms]

Excellent price!

That top should clean up with some evaporust, worst case use very scotch Brite.

 

[PoorUB]

My Unisaw top was slightly rusty. I took a utility knife blade and scraped it off and then wet sanded with some 220 grit and mineral spirits. It came out fairly decent. Sand in straight strokes, the length of the table.

I just bought a tub of the good old Johnson's Wax and plan to wax the cast iron top, and the melamine extension table too. Keep it waxed and it will help prevent rust, plus wood sides better.

Do not use car wax!! Much of it has silicone and you don't want silicone on your wood projects.

 

[jar944]

Rust is easy to fix on a cast iron top. Scrape then sand

 

[wssix99]

I always planned on buying a SawStop, but if I can get this bought reasonably, and if it is a decent saw, maybe I will buy it and save the expense of a new 3 hp Professional SawStop.

If each of your fingers are worth less than $1000, this used saw might sound like a good deal. A lot of people also neglect to take into account the cost of the surgery if you have an accident. (Regardless if you get to keep the fingers or not.) That expense would be far greater than any money you'd save on the used saw.

 

[mike93lx]

If each of your fingers are worth less than $1000, this used saw might sound like a good deal. A lot of people also neglect to take into account the cost of the surgery if you have an accident. (Regardless if you get to keep the fingers or not.) That expense would be far greater than any money you'd save on the used saw.

That's a little alarmist. Millions of people use table saws without cutting their fingers off.

I would like the safety that a sawstop offers, but they are undeniably expensive.

If you always spent lots of extra money to mitigate any danger, all you would have is less money.

 

[PoorUB]

If each of your fingers are worth less than $1000, this used saw might sound like a good deal. A lot of people also neglect to take into account the cost of the surgery if you have an accident. (Regardless if you get to keep the fingers or not.) That expense would be far greater than any money you'd save on the used saw.

Simple sollution that costs nothing, pay attention, use a bit of care and keep your fingers away from the blade. Use push blocks or sticks, feather boards.

More people get hurt in their bathtub every year than table saw injuries.

 

[jar944]

If each of your fingers are worth less than $1000, this used saw might sound like a good deal. A lot of people also neglect to take into account the cost of the surgery if you have an accident. (Regardless if you get to keep the fingers or not.) That expense would be far greater than any money you'd save on the used saw.

Plenty of ways to remove fingers In a woodshop not covered by a sawstop.

Just keep your fingers out of the spinny parts.

 

[wssix99]

That's a little alarmist. Millions of people use table saws without cutting their fingers off.

It's not alarmist considering the position the OP is at and the decision being articulated in the original post.

Hundreds of thousands of people (not millions) use table saws safely every hear, but tens of thousands don't.

The OP is weighing a decision regarding an insurace policy against a catastropic accident. This insurance policy isn't right for everyone. IMO - the question of to-SawStop or not-to-SawStop should be answered first. One can't weigh that question equitably in the midst of valuing of a used piece of equipment.

 

[PoorUB]

I have been doing wood working and remodeling for decades. Table saw, radial arm saw, routers other hand head power tools. I have yet to injure myself with one. I have done more damage to myself with a simple hammer!

A Sawstop is a great machine, but tough for the weekend warrior to justify to cost. If I had intentions of buying a new cabinet saw then I would certainly consider one. But at $5,000 I will take my chances. We all take some chances in our lives somewhere. Some people ride motorcycles, some jump out of airplanes.

 

[Renegade1LI]

If each of your fingers are worth less than $1000, this used saw might sound like a good deal. A lot of people also neglect to take into account the cost of the surgery if you have an accident. (Regardless if you get to keep the fingers or not.) That expense would be far greater than any money you'd save on the used saw.

What about all the other tools in the shop, table saw can be very safe if you follow procedure. Chop saws have very little safety and I’ve heard of plenty of accidents with them. This is from 2 years ago with a metal cutting saw, blade guard on, clamped in vise, a tip broke and grabbed the steel and smashed it across my hand, an accident.

 

[wssix99]

I have been doing wood working and remodeling for decades. Table saw, radial arm saw, routers other hand head power tools. I have yet to injure myself with one. I have done more damage to myself with a simple hammer!

Me too! Although, my perspective was changed when I had to rush someone (a seasoned and experienced professional tradesperson) to the hospital after they ran four fingers through a table saw.

A Sawstop is a great machine, but tough for the weekend warrior to justify to cost.

I actually think its easier for a weekend warrior to justify the cost. Professionals (should) have workman's comp and other protections. Particuarlaly if a weekend warrior relies on their hands for their full time job or profession, the long term consequences of a shop accident can be much greater.

As pointed out above, the insurance "policy" provided by SawStop is not for everyone, but it is a unique proposition. Their tools are very nice and the quality is on par with a the premium price.

 

[PoorUB]

I actually think its easier for a weekend warrior to justify the cost. Professionals (should) have workman's comp and other protections. Particuarlaly if a weekend warrior relies on their hands for their full time job or profession, the long term consequences of a shop accident can be much greater.

As pointed out above, the insurance "policy" provided by SawStop is not for everyone, but it is a unique proposition. Their tools are very nice and the quality is on par with a the premium price.

Speaking from a pure financial point of it, if a shop has one man lose a finger their workman's comp rates might go up enough to pay for a new Sawstop every year or two. A shop with five guys and their rates jump 2% might buy a new Sawstop in a year with the increase.

Plus if a professional cabinet shop needs a saw generally they are not going to take the time look through Craig's List or Facebook market place. They will buy a new saw. They can not take the chance of buying something used and having issues with it. So if it becomes a choice from a $4500 Powermatic or a $5000 Sawstop the Sawstop wold probably win out.

If I loop off a finger my health insurance covers the bulk of it. My out of pocket is much less than the price of the saw. Loss of income? Well I am retired now, so no issue there, but the last few years when I was woking I was in sales so as long as I could drive and dial a cell phone I was good!

 

[Pen & Wrench]

There's no question that the SawStop offers a level of protection no other table saw has. And you don't know if you need one till after you need one. I ran my thumb into a saw blade once many years ago, and I know it can happen. In a "former life" I worked for a company that made up to 20,000 plaques per day. I used to saw up to 6,000 lineal feet of MDF on an old Rockwell fixed arbor table saw and never had a problem till I was making a prototype product and didn't have a prescribed safe process of doing things, and grazed my thumb on the saw I was using. But this Jet saw and and unused router lift was just too tempting for me. I have to agree, the SawStop is the safer choice, and only time will tell if I am able to continue to be safe without it. I do not fault anyone for making a wise choice on buying and using a SawStop. I am making a new mobile base for the Jet saw, so it can be rolled around or picked up with a forklift, and once I get it up and running, who knows, maybe I will make a few dollars on a sale, and still end up going for the SawStop, or maybe I will just keep using the Jet. I always think it is a good idea to be as safe as possible, I guess that would be "Do as I say, not as I do", at least at this time.

 

[mike93lx]

In a commercial environment when you can't ensure people will be safe but you are accountable for their actions regardless, a saw stop is a no brainer, IMO. One minor injury costs far more than a sawstop

A home shop is a different story.

 

[Jackfre]

Having one, I’d vote for the SS, but you have made the choice so I hope the saw does what you need. Now that you have saved all this dough on the saw, look at a Harvey G700 for dust collection.

 

[Pen & Wrench]

Well, I figured I'd post an update. I did build a base that can be moved with pallet forks. I plan to change it a bit and lower the saw into the frame as much as possible, but I've been using it quite a bit just as it is in the picture. I bought a Sawstop outfeed table and had to modify it a bit to make it fit on this saw. Because of the blade guard mount at rear of the table, I had to move the outfeed table over about a foot to the right, and I found square tube to match up to the outfeed table and I widened it to match up to the left side of the saw table. I put a Milwaukee 3 and a half hp router in the Jessem lift and have enjoyed the use of that also. Once I get a shop properly built I will probably put the saw on a more traditional base, but this allows me to move the saw to another building if necessary for storage. It is so much better of a saw than what I have used for the last 35 years, I should have upgraded long ago.

 

[nadogail]

When my son told me that he felt he was ready to use my 12" floor saw I told him I have only one Safety Speech to give you; this saw is so dumb that the only difference it knows between fingers and boards is "Fingers are easier to cut".

That was about 37 years ago, he has yet to use the saw.

 

[Showkey]

When my son told me that he felt he was ready to use my 12" floor saw I told him I have only one Safety Speech to give you; this saw is so dumb that the only difference it knows between fingers and boards is "Fingers are easier to cut".

That was about 37 years ago, he has yet to use the saw.

All tools and activities have some risk. They also have utility, purpose and enjoyment.

How do feel about chain saws, band saws, lawn mowers, welders, ladders, knives, hand power saw, skiing, Mtn biking and taking a shower with out a helmet ?

 

[mike93lx]

All tools and activities have some risk. They also have utility, purpose and enjoyment.

How do feel about chain saws, band saws, lawn mowers, welders, ladders, knives, hand power saw, skiing, Mtn biking and taking a shower with out a helmet ?

There is always someone who gets overly dramatic when a safety risk is mentioned...

 

[Firebrick43]

$600?? If you don't buy it I will be over and slap you along side the head!

The Jet is a good saw. It was on my short list of saws to buy when I found my Unisaw. I would take a good look at the arbor and make sure the threads are good. The blade should be snug all the way to the end of the threads. The threads are Acme and should have flats on top.

Unless the saw looks rough and abused buy it! It will be as good as Unisaw. The best part is Jet is a strong company and still building tools. Delta is a fragment of it's former self and many parts for Unisaws are getting hard to come by. As something as simple as the plastic cursor for a Delta Unifence is unavailable. Delta was bought out by the same Chinese conglomerate that owns Ryobi and Milwaukee tools. Jet is Asian too, but IMO they are a step up over Delta at this point in time.

There was a saw for sale here that looked like someone took a flap wheel on a 4-1/2" grinder and cleaned the rust off the top. Ruined it as far as I was concerned!

I looked over the Sawstop but I just can't justify $5,000 for table saw for messing around with.

Here is my Unisaw,

I wouldn't say that about jet. Not bad stuff per say but they have lousy support for anything over 5 years old or so. Previous shop manager bought a lot of grinders, 14x36 lathes, mill drills, drill press, belt sanders, and such. All jet. When it started getting some wear and needing a part or two, pretty much the standard reply we would get about parts was NLA

 

[lkjk]

For $600 that's a steal, even the router bits for a sawstop are at least that if not more.

Paying attention and using common sense, as long as you have some, should alleviate the need for a sawstop. If you're planning on spending a few thousand anyway on a new table saw then it's a no brainer, but that's not the case.