John Deere Mower, 2000 Model

[Jmellc]

My old Toro Wheel Horse is about dead. My mower guy says it’s not worth fixing. He has a 2000 John Deere, 14 HP, 38 inch deck, with trailer & bagger for $600. This is a true JD, not a big box version.
I can’t pay the price of a new mower but is a 20 year old model a good risk? OTOH, I bought a new Simplicity some years back that was nothing but trouble.

Thanks for any feedback.

 

[kd3pc]

JD model # would help. I have an x300 that has been rock solid. I did replace a coil, replaced the fuel system hoses and cleaned the tank twice. I have the parts to rebuild the front end, it started binding up on turns this summer.

Hours would be the tell, lower hours and regular maintenance.

Likely a better machine as it is, than a new box store unit.

 

[XJSuperman]

Gotta know the model of the tractor bud, anything else is useless.

I would be hesitant to give up an old WheelHorse, but you don't tell us that model number either. WheelHorse was a fantastic machine and system back in the day. Attachamatic toolless installation of any and all implements. Good Kohler engines, simple designs. Too bad Toro/MTD ruined them. If you can still get parts for your model, its worth keeping.

 

[gungatim]

STX-38?

 

[finn]

It’s a 21 year old mower. I wouldn’t recommend it to someone who’s not a tinkerer that enjoys working on old stuff, and the fact that your old mower is at a shop suggests you don’t enjoy that type of work.

You’re not going to find a low hour, reliable machine for $600. At 21 years old, its best days are gone.

 

[Jmellc]

The John Deere is a 175 Hydro

the Toto/Wheel Horse is a 14-38 HXL.

See pics, I just went & looked it over. Starts right up, seems to run smoothly.

 

[jrsavoie]

Our 1980 John Deere 400 is still used at least weekly. It has required work from time to time and needs some now. I have the parts, just no ability right now.

 

[Jmellc]

Sorry, this didn’t post first time.

 

[redmondjp]

If it's really a Deere 175, I think he's a decade off on the age of that unit (1987-90 production run):

TractorData.com John Deere 175 tractor information

www.tractordata.com

At least it has an Eaton hydrostatic and not the dreaded Tuff Torque K46 (google that one and you can read for weeks). Deere definitely made heavier-duty units back in that time frame, designed by the same folks that also designed farm equipment which gets the living snot beat out of it.

Still, that's a 30-year-old machine at this point. I'm daily-driving (so to speak) a 1990 Deere F510 with the same 14hp Kawasaki engine on it, and it's got 770 hours or so and still going strong. I bought it for $300, and then had to do a full deck rebuild and tuneup on it when I bought it (think was around $500-600 in parts all total since I used OEM deere $pindle$ and idler$), but now it runs like new. Had I brought it in to do all of this work, it easily would have cost me $1000+ on top of what I paid for the machine.

I agree with other poster above that your Wheel Horse may definitely be worth keeping going. Unless you need a new transaxle or the frame is rusted in half or the deck itself is rotted away, I'd seriously look at what it needs - if you post back here with more details of exactly what is wrong with it, that would be helpful to give you correct guidance.

OTOH, if the Deere is in excellent mechanical condition (all blade spindle bearings, idler wheels, and other bearings smooth and quiet when you turn then) with good blades, belts, clean fluids, fully tuned-up, tight steering, it starts up quickly, runs smooth and doesn't smoke, $600 isn't a bad price for what you described.

Oh, if you are test-driving any used, older hydrostatic tractor, the acid test for the transmission is to get the fluid nice and hot and then try to drive up a hill. This may require 20-30 minutes of operation. Cold transmission fluid has much higher viscosity than when hot, and this can make the difference in a worn transmission whether it will pull a load or not. That was the big issue with the non-serviceable and undersized K46 transaxle - you would get a few hundred hours on it and then it would not drive uphill when hot.

 

[ed_v]

I gave away an STX-38 last year to a young couple that needed a mower. Those are big box store John Deere's made by MTD about 20 years ago. Not worth $600, but they are good mowers and the trailer and bagger make it a decent deal. They have a manual transmission instead of a hydrostatic. I would not buy a used mower that has a hydrostatic. That is usually the first to go and most expensive component to replace. I see STX-38's going between $300-400 regularly without the added attachments.

Sor
Ed

 

[Jmellc]

He’s letting me try it on my lawn tomorrow to see if I like how it works. If it mows well I will buy it.

 

[Jmellc]

I tried it out yesterday & it started out ok but after about an hour, it started cutting off. After a few times I had to let it cool for an hour to start it again. It started cutting off again & I took it back to him. He said it was probably a carburetor solenoid & he can fix it. I passed on it; too afraid other stuff will follow.
It did mow well & climb ditch banks well, I’ll say thy for it.

 

[finn]

Good decision to pass. Stuff gets old and wears out, then your tool becomes the project.

I long ago decided that I want to work with my tools, not on them. They are consumables, for the most part.

 

[Sumboodie]

It’s a 21 year old mower. I wouldn’t recommend it to someone who’s not a tinkerer that enjoys working on old stuff, and the fact that your old mower is at a shop suggests you don’t enjoy that type of work.

You’re not going to find a low hour, reliable machine for $600. At 21 years old, its best days are gone.

I paid $1000 for my 2009 Cub Cadet zero turn in 2011. It had under 100hrs on it. With bagger and weight kit, it was around $4300 new.

I've put probably 150 hours on it since.
(Mowing season is only about 3.5 months, so figure maybe 15 mows a year at ~45 mins each.

Used it for a while to tug a cart to move firewood and what not, but now my Polaris Ranger handles that.

Have a 1999 Craftsman garden tractor, I think I gave $1800 for in 2009. Has a 48" snowblower. Had a deck and bagger, but I eventually sold that and just keep the blower on it.
It's got maybe 250hrs on it.

 

[Sumboodie]

Good decision to pass. Stuff gets old and wears out, then your tool becomes the project.

I long ago decided that I want to work with my tools, not on them. They are consumables, for the most part.

Not that much on a mower to fix, and it's all simple.
Carb solenoid is a $20 part and a few mins to replace.

All depends on the hours on it and how it was stored and operated too.
Some folks can destroy a new piece of equipment in a hurry while others can make an old worn out machine still pay the bills without much fuss.

 

[jives]

Wheel Horses are almost always worth fixing -- but not your 14-38 HXL model. Your model is a light duty lawn tractor. WH (then with Toro) did make light duty mowers with vertical shaft motors, aluminum case transaxles, and splined rear axles. The repairable WH garden tractors are in an entirely different class, with cast iron bullet proof trannys, quality horizontal shaft motors, 5-bolt rear hubs and more. Your HXL model is probably not worth saving, so you can move on. The I'm not sure the continued repairability of the JD 175.

In my area $600 will get you a real WH, or a Simplicity, or a Cub Cadet, but they will be 20+ years old with the inevitable aging. $600 won't get you a quality old JD.

 

[ed_v]

I tried it out yesterday & it started out ok but after about an hour, it started cutting off. After a few times I had to let it cool for an hour to start it again. It started cutting off again & I took it back to him. He said it was probably a carburetor solenoid & he can fix it. I passed on it; too afraid other stuff will follow.
It did mow well & climb ditch banks well, I’ll say thy for it.

That is typical for Kohler motors. Mine did it also

 

[redmondjp]

That is typical for Kohler motors. Mine did it also

Read the earlier part of the thread - the unit he tried out was a Deere 175 with a Kawasaki engine in it. If it was cutting out when hot, I would suspect a bad coil. Personally, I wouldn't turn down a machine because of this - get it fixed and run it.

 

[65ranchero]

cutting out when hot

Or maybe a clogged vent hole on the fuel cap ( seen it)
I know the OP doesn't have it but when it cuts out 1st to do is check spark

 

[jrsavoie]

Everything needs to be fixed at some point. I had friends urging me to buy new whenever we had an issue with our 1996 Toro 223D.

Last fall at last mowing the Toro got overheated because the water pump went out and the temp gauge wasn't monitored.

I was a little nervous about replacing the water pump, because I didn't know how badly overheated the Mitsubishi L3E engine had got and did not know how hard it would be to find an engine.

We got lucky and it has run without issue all summer at 4 acres a crack. The deck belt did have to be replaced.

A friend bought a brand new high dollar Ferris 2 years ago and it needed work last year. Equipment will need repaired or replaced. You just have to make a call on which.

 

[65ranchero]

I also bought new (2013) Cub Cadet shaft drive 54" GT and take care of it but it still need maintenance wear items
1) mule pully for deck drive belt (bad bearing)
2) battery ( after 6years)
3) drive belts
4) steering sector and rack
5)Stripper roller ( broken)
It's kinda like us older people we break down!

 

[jrsavoie]

I also bought new (2013) Cub Cadet shaft drive 54" GT and take care of it but it still need maintenance wear items
1) mule pully for deck drive belt (bad bearing)
2) battery ( after 6years)
3) drive belts
4) steering sector and rack
5)Stripper roller ( broken)
It's kinda like us older people we break down!

But we're harder to fix and keep running.

 

[bas157]

Is your current one usable at all to give you time to look for something else? Good deals are out there, found my brother an LX266 with ~$300 hours for $500 last year and I got my LX280aws with only 45 hours for I think it was $1400 (new was over $5000). Need to jump on a good deal when you find them, around here, I know some people flip mowers (buy cheap and relist for much higher, sometimes not even taking new pictures!)

 

[Sumboodie]

I also bought new (2013) Cub Cadet shaft drive 54" GT and take care of it but it still need maintenance wear items
1) mule pully for deck drive belt (bad bearing)
2) battery ( after 6years)
3) drive belts
4) steering sector and rack
5)Stripper roller ( broken)
It's kinda like us older people we break down!

What is a stripper? Other than a boobie girl.

 

[James-W]

I don't usually buy used equipment, I tend to go with new equipment. Not saying you can't get good deals on used equipment, just saying you are taking a chance when you buy used. On the other hand, if you enjoy fixing the equipment you buy as soon as you get it, then I guess buying used can be a good idea. Once again, you may buy a used piece of equipment and have no issues with it at all. But to my mind, old equipment is just that, old equipment, and as we all know, nothing lasts forever.

My suggestion is to buy a new mower even if you have to take out a loan to do it. Interest rates are VERY low right now and since we are getting on towards Fall and the lawn mowing season is winding down, you may be able to get a really good deal on a new mower.

 

[jrsavoie]

I don't usually buy used equipment, I tend to go with new equipment. Not saying you can't get good deals on used equipment, just saying you are taking a chance when you buy used. On the other hand, if you enjoy fixing the equipment you buy as soon as you get it, then I guess buying used can be a good idea. Once again, you may buy a used piece of equipment and have no issues with it at all. But to my mind, old equipment is just that, old equipment, and as we all know, nothing lasts forever.

My suggestion is to buy a new mower even if you have to take out a loan to do it. Interest rates are VERY low right now and since we are getting on towards Fall and the lawn mowing season is winding down, you may be able to get a really good deal on a new mower.

In my experience, the old stuff 1970's through 2000's is much better made, needs fewer repairs and lasts longer.

For diesels, I like 1999 and older. Or at least before the emissions on off road. I definitely prefer diesels.

We have always had 3 to 15 acres to mow and still use our 1980 John Deere 400 - bought 1985. - and 1996 Toro 223D - bought in 2000 - weekly.

Both were bought used and we used them both a fair amount of time before they needed repair.

We saved thousands of dollars buying used

 

[JOE.G]

I say let him fix it, I would suspect the ignition coil, But If the mower is in good shape, then $600 is not a terrible price. If the size matches what you need. I have a 2001 Model JD and a 80's Model JD 214 both are used to tow carts as I have removed teh decks ( which are solid ) as I use a zero turn for mowing now. Both run and drive perfectly. Around $600 isn't getting you much.

 

[jrsavoie]

It’s a 21 year old mower. I wouldn’t recommend it to someone who’s not a tinkerer that enjoys working on old stuff, and the fact that your old mower is at a shop suggests you don’t enjoy that type of work.

You’re not going to find a low hour, reliable machine for $600. At 21 years old, its best days are gone.

Not necessarily true. There are always bargains too be had if you are lucky enough to find them. We got our 1996 Toro 223D for $2300 when it was 4 years old and have been using it ever since.

 

[finn]

Not necessarily true. There are always bargains too be had if you are lucky enough to find them. We got our 1996 Toro 223D for $2300 when it was 4 years old and have been using it ever since.

He’s not talking about a four year old mower. The title says early 90s, which is thirty years old, and someone else said that model was discontinued in the mid eighties, which makes it more like thirty five years old.

I had an eighties Cub Cadet about ten years ago. One of the last made before International Harvester jettisoned the money losing business and sold it to MTD.

it was great when everything worked, but it was a money pit and time waster keeping it running. Parts were available, but it took hours searching on the internet at times to find them. I gave up on it wen I couldn’t find a reliable source for parts, and decided mower repair wasn’t my thing.

I don’t even like mowing.

I sold it to a collector who had a couple dozen restored models. Mine filled a gap in his collection.

I bought a scratch and dent entry model Ariens, made by Husqvarna from HD for $8-900, put a new battery in it and have run it for maybe ten years with little maintenance, save a couple of spindles and a deck belt (I hit a half buried logging chain once, and a large rock, both of which took out a spindle).

It’s a homeowner model, but guess what: I’m a homeowner, who mows about two and a half acres with a couple of hills.

if it broke tomorrow, I would replace it with something similar, or maybe an inexpensive ZTR.

The local John Deere dealer has several dozen of those twenty to thirty year old mowers sitting behind his shop. Worn out, obsolete junk that isn’t worth repairing, given shop labor rates. Great for someone with a lot of free time and who likes to repair junk, though.

 

[jrsavoie]

He’s not talking about a four year old mower. The title says early 90s, which is thirty years old, and someone else said that model was discontinued in the mid eighties, which makes it more like thirty five years old.

I had an eighties Cub Cadet about ten years ago. One of the last made before International Harvester jettisoned the money losing business and sold it to MTD.

it was great when everything worked, but it was a money pit and time waster keeping it running. Parts were available, but it took hours searching on the internet at times to find them. I gave up on it wen I couldn’t find a reliable source for parts, and decided mower repair wasn’t my thing.

I don’t even like mowing.

I sold it to a collector who had a couple dozen restored models. Mine filled a gap in his collection.

I bought a scratch and dent entry model Ariens, made by Husqvarna from HD for $8-900, put a new battery in it and have run it for maybe ten years with little maintenance, save a couple of spindles and a deck belt (I hit a half buried logging chain once, and a large rock, both of which took out a spindle).

It’s a homeowner model, but guess what: I’m a homeowner, who mows about two and a half acres with a couple of hills.

if it broke tomorrow, I would replace it with something similar, or maybe an inexpensive ZTR.

The local John Deere dealer has several dozen of those twenty to thirty year old mowers sitting behind his shop. Worn out, obsolete junk that isn’t worth repairing, given shop labor rates. Great for someone with a lot of free time and who likes to repair junk, though.

Apparently I've been lucky and haven't had to get crazy repairing my old stuff. Makes a difference if you buy a quality machine to start with. Inexpensive new usually = junk to be pitched in a couple years.

Our John Deere 400 is a 1980. Still used at least weekly and the snowblower kicks ****.

 

[kelpaso1]

if it broke tomorrow, I would replace it with something similar, or maybe an inexpensive ZTR.

Err, those 2 words don't belong together

 

[65ranchero]

What is a stripper? Other than a boobie girl.

OK how about striper (and its not a fish)

 

[finn]

Err, those 2 words don't belong together

For a couple of acres, they most certainly do

I don’t need or want a ten or twenty thousand dollar mower to do what a two thousand dollar mower will do, especially since I hate mowing. The same crew pushing the unnecessary overpriced ztr mower would ridicule my $800 Ariens / Husqvarna, but it has proved entirely satisfactory for my use for many years.

One has to set priorities. My priorities are my wife, multiple homes, shop, RV, and hobby car fleet.

Neighbor renting across the street from my shop has one of those fancy stand up commercial mowers. Nice mower, but he had to delay building a house because of lumber prices… the lumber premium this year is probably only slightly greater than what he paid for the professional mower. It’ll last him a lifetime mowing the half acre of his rental, though.

 

[James-W]

In my experience, the old stuff 1970's through 2000's is much better made, needs fewer repairs and lasts longer.

For diesels, I like 1999 and older. Or at least before the emissions on off road. I definitely prefer diesels.

We have always had 3 to 15 acres to mow and still use our 1980 John Deere 400 - bought 1985. - and 1996 Toro 223D - bought in 2000 - weekly.

Both were bought used and we used them both a fair amount of time before they needed repair.

We saved thousands of dollars buying used

My experience is just the opposite, the older stuff tends to be worn out and that is why the original owner got rid of it in the first place. If someone enjoys repairing old well used equipment, then I am all for them buying old stuff and restoring it. But for most of us who just want to cut the grass and not have to stop and do repairs on a regular basis, then I would suggest buying new. If you take care of a new mower and do the regular maintenance, like oil changes, keeping the blade sharp, and picking up the sticks and rocks before cutting the grass, there is no reason why a new rider mower won't last at least 10 years with little or no trouble.

 

[kelpaso1]

For a couple of acres, they most certainly do

I don’t need or want a ten or twenty thousand dollar mower to do what a two thousand dollar mower will do, especially since I hate mowing. The same crew pushing the unnecessary overpriced ztr mower would ridicule my $800 Ariens / Husqvarna, but it has proved entirely satisfactory for my use for many years.

One has to set priorities. My priorities are my wife, multiple homes, shop, RV, and hobby car fleet.

Neighbor renting across the street from my shop has one of those fancy stand up commercial mowers. Nice mower, but he had to delay building a house because of lumber prices… the lumber premium this year is probably only slightly greater than what he paid for the professional mower. It’ll last him a lifetime mowing the half acre of his rental, though.

Show me a zero turn mower for 2 grand new.

 

[Fierljeppen]

More praises for the John Deere 400. I paid $1000 for the tractor and mower deck about 10 years ago. I initially rebuilt the mower spindles, changed all the fluids and filters. It ran great for a couple of years before it started running rough after it got hot. Replaced the ignition coil, spark plugs / wires as well as rebuilt the original Kohler carburetor. Other than changing the engine oil annually and the belts as necessary, it's been rock solid ever since.

Not everyone wants to work on their mower, I get that. For me, I don't mind at all. Parts are not expensive and the work that is necessary hasn't been excessive. One thing that I really like about my 1981 JD400 is that it's worth at least what I paid for it 10 years ago, with no end in sight.

It may not cut as fast as a zero turn mower, but it's a lot easier to drink a beer while I'm cutting the grass.

 

[Sumboodie]

OK how about striper (and its not a fish)

I didn't know such a thing existed. Looked up what it was. Been mowing for easy 30 years and never heard of it. Never saw one at the OPE shop I spent 7 years at. We didn't work on mowers a ton though. Mostly chainsaws.

 

[finn]

Show me a zero turn mower for 2 grand new.

Straw man argument. Bump it to $3 k if it makes you feel better.

The point is that there’s a reason the market provides mowers (and tools, as far as that goes) to meet a wide range of requirements from a wide range of users.

My mini excavator is a small Deere 26g. It meets my needs quite well. I could have spent four times as much for a larger machine, or a quarter as much for a worn out piece of junk, one that I would be working on, not with.

I have a fair number of Snapon wrenches, sockets, and ratchets, along with other brands. I would never in a million years recommend Snapon to my brother-in-law. Most any import would more than meet his needs at his skill level. In fact, I personally don’t even need the Snapon tools. I buy them because I like them, as a pure luxury. I often use the “lesser brands” for fear of damaging the good stuff in some situations. The bargain stuff, HF excepted, has never let me down.

 

[finn]

More praises for the John Deere 400. I paid $1000 for the tractor and mower deck about 10 years ago. I initially rebuilt the mower spindles, changed all the fluids and filters. It ran great for a couple of years before it started running rough after it got hot. Replaced the ignition coil, spark plugs / wires as well as rebuilt the original Kohler carburetor. Other than changing the engine oil annually and the belts as necessary, it's been rock solid ever since.

Not everyone wants to work on their mower, I get that. For me, I don't mind at all. Parts are not expensive and the work that is necessary hasn't been excessive. One thing that I really like about my 1981 JD400 is that it's worth at least what I paid for it 10 years ago, with no end in sight.

It may not cut as fast as a zero turn mower, but it's a lot easier to drink a beer while I'm cutting the grass.

I think this is a good example. Fierl… bought an older tractor, but he enjoys working on it and he apparently has the time and skills. The $1k tractor probably has another $5k in parts and labor if he was paying shop rates, which are $125/hr here near the end of the earth.

Most people see the tractor as a tool to mow the lawn with, and are better off buying a new, relatively inexpensive, tractor every ten or so years.
Nice tractor, by the way.

 

[65ranchero]

I didn't know such a thing existed. Looked up what it was. Been mowing for easy 30 years and never heard of it. Never saw one at the OPE shop I spent 7 years at. We didn't work on mowers a ton though. Mostly chainsaws.

Ok its really a 6" or 9" roller on the front lower of the deck that kind off roll the grass ( they break) anti scalp is another name
similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HSDABW/?tag=atomicindus08-20