Joining a roller chain....

[SpeedCoach]

Alright - I know this is a total newb question, but I've never had to do this before....so pardon my ignorance (I may have to turn in my guy card after asking....)

how in the world does once connect a roller chain to itself? I've got the connector links and the breaker tool.....it looks to me like the little clip on the connector link should slide off, so you can remove the "2nd side" and expose the pins to slide them into the 2 end links on your chain....is this clip removal a job to "manhandle" or am i completely wrong here??

 

[A_Pmech]

Coach,

The master link clip should slide out with moderate effort. I like to use a 90 degree pick and a short, sharp, pulling motion. Don't poke yourself!

Assembly goes best with needle nose pliers.

Otherwise, you have the idea.



What's the project?

Alright - I know this is a total newb question, but I've never had to do this before....so pardon my ignorance (I may have to turn in my guy card after asking....)

how in the world does once connect a roller chain to itself? I've got the connector links and the breaker tool.....it looks to me like the little clip on the connector link should slide off, so you can remove the "2nd side" and expose the pins to slide them into the 2 end links on your chain....is this clip removal a job to "manhandle" or am i completely wrong here??

 

[SpeedCoach]

Thanks! That was about the only way I could conceive to make it work...

Not a terribly cool project....

I''ve recently started racing Karts and I need to replace the chain as after my last run I have a link about to pop....For the cost of a pre-assembled chain from the race-shop I bought a bulk length with enough to make me 3 chains....I need to learn to join the ends myself....("breaking" the chain seems simple enough....)

 

[tdkkart]

kart racing is tough on chains, so there are some special techniques to use, the first invovles throwing away the replaceable master links. They will do nothing but cause problems.

You need a chain breaker like this:

The chain is laid in the breaker so that the bolt with the pin in it is lined up with the point you want to break the chain. The bolt is screwed in till the chain's pin is pushed almost all the way out and the chain is seperated.

When ready to reassemble lay the chain back in the breaker with the protruding pin in the slot and crank in the other bolt to push the pin back in.
It's a bit tricky the first time, but with practice it works really well.

Also, hardware store bulk chain is ****, buy good chain and you will be much happier.

 

[D KRAGER]

You can also do it without that fancy tool. Just take a hand grinder to the head of the pins grind flush with the connector, then drive the pin out with a punch. Always done it this way, never used one of those tools.....

 

[tdkkart]

You can also do it without that fancy tool. Just take a hand grinder to the head of the pins grind flush with the connector, then drive the pin out with a punch. Always done it this way, never used one of those tools.....

Yes, that works, I do it all the time at work, however the point of the above tool is to be able to put the chain back together without using a master link.
Pushing the pin out and then back in makes for an endless chain, and works much better than it would seem.

 

[A_Pmech]

Interesting tool...

I'm not sure I like the idea of re-using the pin. It would seem to me that the upset head of the pin would gall upon removal and again on installation. Thus, when reinstalled it would not have the same level of push-out strength as before and might eventually walk out.

I suppose that probably isn't an issue with karts as your experience indicates, but there's definitely no way I'd do that on my motorcycles. Riveted master links only for me. (Part of the reason why I asked the application.)

 

[tdkkart]

I suppose that probably isn't an issue with karts as your experience indicates, but there's definitely no way I'd do that on my motorcycles. Riveted master links only for me. (Part of the reason why I asked the application.)

Would I use it on a motorcycle that I was riding on the highway?? No, but then again I've never had a problem with a standard master link on a motorcycle.

I thought the same about re-using the pins when I first started out, but I've put 30+HP through a 219 pitch chain with no issues, and I know guys that regularly put 40-50HP through a #35 chain with no issues. You replace them alot, but you don't have problems with the re-used pins.

When I ran a twin engine kart weekly I had to replace the front drive sprockets and chains every 4-5 race nights, $100 bill each time. $500+ just in sprockets and chain for a season of racing.

 

[A_Pmech]

Why such a small chain for the power? Is there a rule limiting drive chain size, or is it that competitive that the field is running light chains for a weight advantage?

 

[GJN]

Why such a small chain for the power?

Karts almost universally use a 219 chain. Low friction losses, light weight and cheap. I run road-race karts here in Oz running 30 hp at 100+ mph through a #219 chain. I use D-I-D gold chain and with oiling before each race I get a couple of seasons out of each chain.

It may end up being a false economy going for a cheaper chain stock.

 

[tdkkart]

Why such a small chain for the power? Is there a rule limiting drive chain size, or is it that competitive that the field is running light chains for a weight advantage?

One of the primary advantages to the smaller chain is that the drive sprocket actually lasts longer. Because of small track sizes many karts use very high numerical drive ratios, 9 or 10-1. in order to get this you end up with a drive sprocket that is not much larger than the crankshaft. A 9T #35, or a 10T #219. The 10t 219 sprocket actualy puts more teeth in the chain than the 9T #35, even though the chain is smaller, the sprocket lasts longer. And yes, it's lighter, and slightly more ratios available in the smaller chain.
It makes enough of a difference that when some of the Briggs racers started picking up on it the sanctioning bodies outlawed the #219 chain because it was a competative advantage, and some whined that it was gonna cost too much to switch over all their equipment to remain competative.

It is indeed HUGELY competative. Go to a kart race if you get a chance and wander through the pits, these ain't Grandpa's old yard kart.

 

[SpeedCoach]

Also, hardware store bulk chain is ****, buy good chain and you will be much happier.

I race in a "spec" series at a local track. The track owners have tried to establish this class as an affordable entry into racing with the emphasis on the driver more than the kart....but it's still a blast!

The rules of my class require a 420 roller chain.....hence the "cheap bulk chain." Which yes, is ****....but I'd rather have enough bulk chain for multiple replacements than pay for 1 premade chain....which is still the same ****...

That said, I dig some of the fancier karts that race out there (HPV, TAG, etc). At 55-60mph I'm having a blast, but watching some of those guys up in (they say) the 80-90 mph range looks like a too much fun to resist for long.....I think as i get further into this those classes will become much more appealing....but their costs may not!

 

[tdkkart]

The rules of my class require a 420 roller chain.....hence the "cheap bulk chain." Which yes, is ****....but I'd rather have enough bulk chain for multiple replacements than pay for 1 premade chain....which is still the same ****...

That said, I dig some of the fancier karts that race out there (HPV, TAG, etc). At 55-60mph I'm having a blast, but watching some of those guys up in (they say) the 80-90 mph range looks like a too much fun to resist for long.....I think as i get further into this those classes will become much more appealing....but their costs may not!

I assume, since you're using 420 chain, that we are talking a shifter motor class?? Your chain issues will be far fewer than those of us that run dirt and have to deal with sand and rocks, but you will still have issues.
You can still get "better" chain, and IMO it's a worthwhile investment. Nothing ruins a race day faster than failures on the track, because you have to add in the cost of your wasted entry fees along with the parts that cause you to drop out of the race.

I know where you're coming from looking at the upper classes, but as you suggest, building a good base program first will help you control both your success and costs later on if you decide to make the jump.

Check my website:
http://www.tdkmotorsports.com/

 

[SpeedCoach]

you've got me wondering now....where can one get "better" chain?

 

[Here2Learn]

D.I.D.
RK
Tsubaki
Renthal
Sidewinder
Regina

many others make motorcycle chain

The 420 you mention is the size used on 85cc two-stroke MX bikes.