Joining Racedeck Tiles without Interlocking Pegs (**** Joints)

[mwilson6192]

I have a situation where a two-post asymmetric lift is installed in my two car garage. The lift was set at a deliberate 30-degree angle in one of the car bays to accommodate the car with the workbench, cabinets and rolling tool chest installed.

I wanted to orient my Racedeck tile in this bay with an outline of bright red tiles, with a checkerboard pattern within the red border. My dilemma is how to connect the Racedeck tiles at the 30-degree "connection point" with the other bay, which will be installed conventionally as a rectangle? In order to accomplish this cut, I will have to sacrifice some connection points (e.g. cut the connecting loops and pegs). This will create some "****" joints with no connections on these initial tiles. Once the angle is started, the tile installation will proceed normally until it again meets up with the "standard" rectangle installation at the side of the garage and the back of the garage.

Any advice for me on these types of **** joints using Racedeck tiles (by the way, they are Racedeck Tuffshield Diamond 12x12 tiles)? Any tips on making an alternate connection? Any other tips and tricks or warnings you kind folks can provide in advance?

Thanks!

 

[Garage Flooring]

Any chance you can post a layout?

 

[mwilson6192]

Hopefully these pictures better frame my questions:

 

[RaceDeck1]

I will try to locate some photos we may have of similar design installs. The trick to doing this type of layout is to perfectly cut the tiles at the cross point and **** up against each other, creating the illusion of being locked togther but really you will have multiple interlocked floors

 

[RaceDeck1]

here is one

 

[Armorpoxy]

The nice thing about interlocking tiles is that they interlock. We find that when customers cut and piece them together that problems can arise.

Just a suggestion, maybe do the floor all interlocked and then use like a Krylon paint for plastics to paint lines on the the tiles? We have seen that and it looks nice and may give you the look you want, but keep the integrity of the floor.

Interlocking tile floors need to move/float a bit, unless glued down fully, and removing the interlocks may prevent this from happening as they are designed. Just our 2 cents, but hate to see a lot of money and time spent, and then problems down the road!

 

[mwilson6192]

Thank you to RaceDeck1 and Armorpoxy for your replies - I appreciate them.

Are there no alternatives to "interlocking" the tiles? There are no "mechanical crimps" that can be employed between the **** joints (with a channel cut in the bottom tile structure to accommodate)? Another mechanical connection thought I had was to use a small threaded rod and by cutting a "channel" between the two tiles, use nuts with nylon in them and compress the tiles together, like so:

tile 1...........|...............................|...tile 2
connector...||-------------------------||
tile 1...........|...............................|...tile 2

Maybe wishful thinking, but trying to think outside-of-the-box if you will and get the tiles to **** joint with some type of mechanical compression versus any bonding agent.

Still thinking about the solution ...

Thanks again for the thoughts!

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi
We have clients that cut and fit and it can be done. You would need to glue the floor down with our epoxy adhesive.

Hollow type tiles really can't be glued well to the floor since there isn't enough surface inter bottom to adhere but our solid tiles can be easily affixed.

You would lay out the floor, make all your cuts and fit it together then pick op sections and glue them back down. Our special adhesive must be used.

We know of no other method. Thanks!


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[piker28]

here is one

Wow, props to that guy. I would have pulled my hair our in laying that out to make sure it came out perfect.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Here is a pic of a custom logo made from tiles that were water-jet cutted and fitted with adhesive. This is an extreme case of showing how the tiles can be fitted and such without the 'teeth'.

Each of these colors are separate pieces that were cut, painted with special paint, clear coated, and then fitted in.

We made this for NBC News Operations in NYC for where they keep all of their camera gear for worldwide transport and test prior to shipping.

 

[mwilson6192]

Here is some progress that I have made using the technique suggested by Racedeck1. I have essentially made two floors using this technique, and I have taken pains to keep the orientation of all of the tiles the same (I didn't have to, but decided that with the orientation the same across the entire garage floor, if any tile needs to be replaced they will all come out the same way).

Fitting, measuring and cutting the angled tiles does require quite a bit of patience, and I have managed to cut 3 tiles incorrectly in trying to maintain tile orientation as well as erroneously cut the angle backwards (flipped the tile on the sliding compound miter saw and flipped it the wrong way ... twice!).

The **** joint is very tight, and I have found it better to make the cut "proud" and sneak up on the cut versus cutting the tile directly. Of course, this relies on my skills at the saw, which are getting decidedly better now after about twenty cuts (border cuts as well as the angled cuts). I have noted how easily the large assembled tile "mass" moves with tapping by a rubber mallet. Time will tell, but I have decided that in lieu of a mechanical retention mechanism, a few taps with a rubber mallet and a half-inch wood spacer block at either edge of the garage will move any gap back together to make this floor layout feasible. Or at least I hope so ...

Pictures follow (the "line" crossing the tiles is sunlight streaming through the windows).

 

[mikereno1]

Looks great!

 

[mwilson6192]

More progress this evening. The angle cuts are a complete PITA, and significantly slow down progress. It's coming along, but maintaining the lift angle (of which I lied earlier - it is actually 20-degrees) is really causing slow progress. But, the red outline will really help steer the cars to the 2-post Mohawk lift.

 

[gonmad54]

I like it!


#54

 

[DocRock]

Way cool. Yup, it's a lot of work, but going for something unique is worth it, IMHO.

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[RaceDeck1]

This is going to be a very cool floor design, can't wait to see the finished floor

 

[mwilson6192]

I have reached a milestone in completing the two lift bays. I have a 4 foot section at the rear of the garage left to tile, and then I have a 12-foot by 13-foot triangle to the left of the garage to complete. I am just about out of tiles (I under ordered on purpose), so I'll have to layout, count and order the remainder of the tiles. You may notice from the earlier pictures that I change the 2-post lift bay, adding a complete border of red tiles. My wife thought that it would look better - and she was right. However, I had to completely disassemble the tiles in this bay, and (of course) adding an additional tile border completely threw off the previously cut tiles because the geometry changed.

A couple notes to help those who would like to tackle a layout similar to mine. First, have a large dose of patience. You will orient tiles incorrectly and make a cut (or two or three or ten) that will make you very unhappy. Second, have a set of good tools. You may laugh at me, but a DeWalt (or Stanley) utility knife with a continual set of fresh carbon blades does absolute wonders in making fine cuts. The 12-inch sliding compound miter saw I used works well, but some of the panels "walk" slightly from time to time, and using 3M Blue Painters tape as a line guide to outline an errant angle or line, the utility knife trims up the tile edge remarkably well (you will have to push hard to get through the "matrix" in the bottom of the tile - but it works and is controlled).

For the complex cuts with lots of corners with short radius cuts (my Mohawk 2-post lift for example as a picture below illustrates), a good jigsaw with a laminate blade is wonderful. The plastic tends to melt together from the heat generated from the jigsaw blade from the tight radius cut, but using the aforementioned utility knife, they cut apart quite easily (the melted joint is held together with a very thin bond of melted plastic). The main thing to remember is nothing comes easy with any complex angles or corner radius cuts, and it requires lots and lots of extra time and attention to detail.

For tracing angles and corner radius complex cuts onto the tiles, I used printer paper for making a template of the cut, then transferred the template tracing to the tile by using a black Sharpie marker on the 3M Blue Painters tape that I placed over the "projected" cut line. This also helps protect the surface of the cut (I used the Painters tape on all of my cuts). This method worked well for me, and almost eliminated bad cuts (except for the tile orientation problem I seem to have a knack for).

I will say using the compound miter saw was frustrating, as even with a brand new 96-tooth Freud blade for laminates, the tiles have to be held down firmly or they will walk. There is nothing so frustrating as making an angle cut, bringing the tile to the proper location, joining the tile to its neighbor, and the cut is off a sixteenth or even an eighth-of-an-inch. Did you know that a RaceDeck Tuffshield tile makes a good Frisbie substitute? Who knew (as I sailed one across the front yard - perhaps as a result of this very situation - did I mention having a healthy dose of patience)?

Some pictures follow below of my progress.

A view from the rear of the garage (note the inside of my garage door is painted to match my walls - an extra painting step that has really grown on me):

A view of the seams of the 20-degree angle cuts joining the "standard" rectangle:

A view of some of the complex cuts that were required:

Access to the 240-volt 20-AMP plug for both lifts (this cut was made in the middle of a tile - I used a hole saw to cut a hole at two corners, and used a drywall saw to cut the actual electrical outlet access hole):

Finally, a close-up shot of the detail between the "standard" rectangle and the 20-degree angle cuts.

 

[alberto]

Wow, those cuts look perfect. Great job on the tile job.

I guess there wasn't any other way to orient the lifts so that the four post doesn't interfere with the two post on approach? It almost looks like you need to drive in straight and then make a left to get onto the two post? Or is it an illusion enhanced by the tile orientation?

Regardless, great job on the tiles.

 

[mwilson6192]

I guess there wasn't any other way to orient the lifts so that the four post doesn't interfere with the two post on approach?

There are two ways to deal with this situation: 1) as you note, drive in straight (but at as much of an angle as I can without hitting the left rear 4-post lift leg ... it won't be straight in because there is more room than it appears in the picture), or 2) use the castors I bought with the 4-post lift and push the lift to the edge of the wall (gaining about another 12-inches or so), making the approach to the 2-post lift that much easier.

I did not originally plan for two lifts - only the 2-post lift was planned and installed. Due to the length of the garage (24-feet deep), and my desire to have a workbench, tool chest and cabinets along the back wall, to ensure the full lift height for a car on the 2-post lift as well as avoiding concrete kerf cuts which the installer would not cross with the lift column, the 2-post lift was oriented at a 20-degree angle. This afforded full vehicle lift height with or without the garage door closed. My garage has a vaulted ceiling with a 15-foot maximum height in the center of the garage and the garage door travel follows the vaulted ceiling using a jackshaft garage door opener. If I didn't have the workbench where it is presently located, I could have had the 2-post lift oriented normally. After much planning and measuring, the 2-post lift was oriented accordingly. It works out very well in actual practice.

Why did I subsequently buy the 4-post lift? Unexpectedly I bought another car, and the strong desire to stack/store the cars in one bay arose, preserving the 2-post lift bay to store my pub table and chairs, which is where the guys hang out. If I was starting from scratch, I would have only purchased the 4-post lift (which by the way is a Backyard Buddy). However, now that events are what they are, having two lifts is the ultimate.

 

[Pay2play]

Great job in those tiles. Very nice looking garage space!


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[piker28]

Wow, have to admit. I really like the painted door.

 

[iowa4x4dieselman]

Wow, have to admit. I really like the painted door.

that is for sure! that racedeck floor looks awesome, and the intricate cuts around the lift look top notch

Awesome job!

 

[hazexban]

This is absolutely amazing, great job all around. I love that you painted the garage door to match. You obviously do have a lot patience and a good eye.

Great job

 

[TONE]

Great jog. Your efforts are an amazing result. Congrats, it's awesome!

 

[DocRock]

Very well done.

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[SALIV8]

looks great! that looks like it took some patience..

quick question: it appears your 4 post is sitting on top of the racedek. is that recommended?

 

[mwilson6192]

quick question: it appears your 4 post is sitting on top of the racedek. is that recommended?

Officially, I don't know the answer to your question.

In the RaceDeck website picture galleries, there are several lifts pictured, two of which to my eyes show a 4-post lift sitting cleanly on top of the tiles with bolts holding the lift legs in place. Somewhere along the line in my research I recall that a 4-post lift could be installed directly on top of the RaceDeck tiles with references to bolting directly to the concrete floor through the tile(s) - but I don't have written evidence of that.

I will note that there is almost no deflection that is apparent in the tiles where the lift leg is sitting, and I have my Shelby GT500 parked on the lift. Another reason for choosing the model and manufacturer of my specific 4-post lift is that no bolting of the lift to the floor is required or recommended, and the lift is therefore mobile (as well, I purchased optional castors). With the 80,000-pound rolling resistance rating, I'm not too worried about this situation.

Time will tell I guess.

 

[mwilson6192]

I guess there wasn't any other way to orient the lifts so that the four post doesn't interfere with the two post on approach? It almost looks like you need to drive in straight and then make a left to get onto the two post?

There are two ways to deal with this situation: 1) as you note, drive in straight (but at as much of an angle as I can without hitting the left rear 4-post lift leg ... it won't be straight in because there is more room than it appears in the picture)...

Well alrighty then.

I pulled in my Challenger Hellcat to test the approach to the 2-post lift with the 4-post lift that was installed this week, and surprise! There is NOT enough room even with an angled approach to get the car aligned correctly with the lift angle. That is annoying.

I will have to use the castors to move the 4-post lift the 18-inches or so to the side of the garage to make room for a proper approach. At least I have the mobility option to do this (at least part of my research and planning will come to my assistance).

 

[Pay2play]

Looks very nice and clean. You have some cool cars and great equipment! How easy is it to use the two post? Pics make it look real close to the back wall.


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[RaceDeck1]

One of the most unique RaceDeck design/ installs to date! nicely done

 

[mwilson6192]

How easy is it to use the two post? Pics make it look real close to the back wall.

The 2-post lift is very easy to use. The angled installation give plenty of room to work on the engine bay (which is why the lift was angled, in addition to enabling full lift height when raised).

Another two feet to the depth of the garage would be ideal, but I make do with the existing size of the garage. I count myself lucky to even have a lift, so everything is good.

 

[mwilson6192]

So I finally finished the garage floor. All I can say is that this was a labor of love (and money for extra tiles). I ended up having to cut about 100 angled cuts including 20-degree cuts, 25-degree cuts, and 45-degree cuts to fit the various angles of the garage.

Now that it is done, I am very happy that I endured the additional pain and torture of cutting tiles to fit the angled lift and triangular storage area. It added a dimension of interest that looks better in person that the photos show. Every neighbor who has seen the floor simply says "That is so cool".

Enough talking ... pictures (many) to follow.

Detail of the 12-foot by 13-foot "triangle" section of the garage - without then with the storage shelf:

Detail of the rear door and workbench area:

Several views of the entire garage area:

 

[Shea]

Wow! That is one sharp looking garage and floor! Definitely a labor of love to get that technical with the layout and making all those cuts. Bravo!

 

[mwilson6192]

One of the best accessories to go with a new garage.

Beer, anyone?

 

[RaceDeck1]

Cheers to you What a fantastic design and incredible installation " Pro Level" - that is one cool garage sir!

 

[mwilson6192]

Thanks for all the kind comments. It makes the endeavor all the more worthwhile.

 

[Pay2play]

I really like how you carried the paint scheme all around including the garage door. Well done! Cool cars. Envious of your space. [emoji106]


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