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Joist hanger alignment

LoTec

Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2020
Messages
6
Location
Arkansaw, WI
I am in the process of installing a new 16x10 insulated garage door in my shop addition. I have the door panels and vertical tracks installed. Next I need to install the overhead horizontal tracks, and to do that I need to to install some ceiling joists for the track hangers to attach to.

It's a pole building with trusses 8' on center, running parallel to the wall the door is in. I eventually will install 2x8 ceiling joists running perpendicular to all the trusses, and insulate and install a ceiling. (Don't know yet what I'll use for ceiling material; I planned to use the ribbed steel liner panels Menards sells, but sheet rock would cost 1/3 the price.)

Anyway, for now I am just installing the ceiling joists I'll need to fasten the door track hangers. I am using joist hangers nailed to the trusses.

My question is, how to align the bottom of the hangers? The eventual goal is to install a ceiling, so ideally the bottom of the joists should be flush with the bottom of the trusses. But, although the joist hangers are pretty thin (18 gauge?) they do have some thickness.

So, do I align the bottoms of the joists with the bottoms of the truss? Then there is a slight protrusion from each joist hanger. Or, do I align the bottom of the joist hanger with the bottom of the truss? It seems like then the variation in mounting surface for the ceiling might be more gradual.

Maybe I am overthinking this, and either way the thickness variation is within the acceptable margin of error for sheet rock or ceiling tin.

Thoughts?
 
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KenC

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2009
Messages
2,576
I am in the process of installing a new 16x10 insulated garage door in my shop addition. I have the door panels and vertical tracks installed. Next I need to install the overhead horizontal tracks, and to do that I need to to install some ceiling joists for the track hangers to attach to.

It's a pole building with trusses 8' on center, running parallel to the wall the door is in. I eventually will install 2x8 ceiling joists running perpendicular to all the trusses, and insulate and install a ceiling. (Don't know yet what I'll use for ceiling material; I planned to use the ribbed steel liner panels Menards sells, but sheet rock would cost 1/3 the price.)

Anyway, for now I am just installing the ceiling joists I'll need to fasten the door track hangers. I am using joist hangers nailed to the trusses.

My question is, how to align the bottom of the hangers? The eventual goal is to install a ceiling, so ideally the bottom of the joists should be flush with the bottom of the trusses. But, although the joist hangers are pretty thin (18 gauge?) they do have some thickness.

So, do I align the bottoms of the joists with the bottoms of the truss? Then there is a slight protrusion from each joist hanger. Or, do I align the bottom of the joist hanger with the bottom of the truss? It seems like then the variation in mounting surface for the ceiling might be more gradual.

Maybe] I am overthinking this, and either way the thickness variation is within the acceptable margin of error for sheet rock or ceiling tin.

Thoughts?

The red above is your correct answer to the question.
 

Sumboodie

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 20, 2021
Messages
10,653
Location
AK
Garage door isn't too fussy. Had doors at a shop that the horizontal track went downhill a good 4".
Thought was it'd keep the door from wanting to come back down.

Well, it did that, but it also would rip the door out of your hands and good up really quickly after the 4-5ft mark.
 
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Viper98912

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 20, 2012
Messages
1,124
Location
GA
If you're drywalling, the extra height/movement of the drywall in the corners will not be noticeable by anyone. Leave the hangers and wood as tight as you can and just drywall over it.
 

Firebrick43

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
13,974
Location
West central Indiana
Why run 2x8 ceiling joist? Around here on 8’ centers they run 2x4s screw flat into the bottom on 2 or 3’ centers. Buy fiberglass insulation in 8’ rolls for between the trusses. It will bring enough savings to eliminate the price differences
 
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