To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Joist hanger question.

gayler

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2011
Messages
3,272
Location
Lakin Kansas
I discovered today while in my garage attic that when my 2x6's were put up between the trussed, which are 2x6 on the bottom and 2x8 on the top, that the hangers are put up with what looks like drywall screws in the flange only.Nothing in the hole that angles through both pieces of wood. Also keep in mind the trusses are spaced ten feet apart. What is the correct fastener,screw size or nail size for this. This scares the **** out of me because I have put up insulation and 1/2 sheetrock two years ago. I don't want this falling on my head! Thanks everyone!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

kf4mwx

New member
Joined
Mar 2, 2012
Messages
2
10d nails in the joist/angled holes
There is a special nail for the flange holes.
They are a heavier gauge than common nails and also hot dipped galvanized to facilitate use in treated lumber.
 

pattenp

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 4, 2008
Messages
10,175
Location
Virginia - USA
10d nails in the joist/angled holes
There is a special nail for the flange holes.
They are a heavier gauge than common nails and also hot dipped galvanized to facilitate use in treated lumber.

There is no difference in the gauge of a 10d hanger flange nail vs. a 10d common. The shank diameter on both are listed as .148. The hanger flange nails come in lengths shorter than the standard penny lengths.
 

tolken4

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Messages
330
Need more information to know your exact nails you need. But, most likely it is going to be a 10d nail. Just make sure the two double shear nails are longer common nails and not the shorter ones the box stores sell as JOIST HANGER NAILS. You can use the shorter ones if need be on the Face nailing, but the shear nails need to be the 2.5" common nails.

If you can use them with out going thru the wood, use all common size nails for added strength. Also, I found the screws they sell, structural screws, not normal ones, were helpful in some tight spots where nailing was difficult.

They will try to sell you the shorter nails for the whole shebang. This is not correct. They are not long enough and will not do their job.

http://www.strongtie.com/ftp/catalogs/c-2011/C-2011-p024-p025.pdf
http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/nails.asp


024b-2011_175px.gif

024c-2011_175px.gif



Nail Design Information:

In some cases it is desirable to install Simpson Strong-Tie face mount joist hangers and straight straps with nails that are a different type or size than what is called out in the load table. In these cases these reduction factors must be applied to the allowable loads listed for the connector.
024a-2011.gif
 
Last edited:

tolken4

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Messages
330
There is no difference in the gauge of a 10d hanger flange nail vs. a 10d common. The shank diameter on both are listed as .148. The hanger flange nails come in lengths shorter than the standard penny lengths.

Patt is correct.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
G

gayler

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2011
Messages
3,272
Location
Lakin Kansas
Thanks guys! The double shear holes were not even used, so I will buy some nails. What type of screws would you use for the flange? I don't know if the flange nails will hold well here because they were put up with what looks to be drywall screws.
 

tolken4

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Messages
330
Just use nails if you can. The screws are for if you can't get a hammer on something, but you might be able to get a screw in somewhere. I actually found this more useful on some shear nail holes where I was up against a header for my stairs on my deck.

Screws are pricey, so nails would be your first choice. but, if for some reason you can get a screw in a hole you can't get a nail in.

Use the #9 or #10 screws screws depending on the type of nails you are replacing. Most likely the #9 are all that will fit in your devices.

This all depends on what type of strong tie connectors you are using. Based on your lumber dimensions we are all guessing it will be 10d nails. BUT PLEASE VERIFY WITH YOUR specific case.

By the way, use the recommendations given to you for your application. Bigger is not better. I actually called the strong tie rep when I was building my deck because I was getting **** information from "experts". A few of there connectors call for 8d for face nailing and 10d for the double shear nails.

I called the rep to ask/inform him about lowes and HD not selling the correct nails. Only carrying the shorter face nails and guys telling people they were the right ones for all the holes. Rep sounded a bit miffed and aware of the issue. Ended up talking to their engineer.

Anyway, I asked him why they would use 8d and 10d on one design and not just call for the 10d all around. I thought it would make it a hell of alot easier on folks like me and probably easier on their supply chain and stocking distributors/retailers.

He told me they actually tested them to try that and found the smaller nails in the pattern they are in actually bested the larger nails in the pattern they would have to be in for pullout strength.
 
Last edited:

stout1

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 3, 2010
Messages
57
Location
Chicago area
Wow! I never knew you were supposed to use the common nails for the shear nails.
Garage Journal Board - teaching you something new everyday!
 

tolken4

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Messages
330
Wow! I never knew you were supposed to use the common nails for the shear nails.
Garage Journal Board - teaching you something new everyday!

Apparently this is a large issue. There are a LOT of folks, contractors included, that don't know. The box stores I think are culpable for not stocking the right nails. I think they have changed it now, but for along time that was the way.

You will find an entire setup of the strong tie product line and next to it are only the 5lb buckets of the short hanger nails. I And there was some "helper" telling you "oh yah, you are good. Just use those. Hey look, they say joist hanger don't they?"
 

pattenp

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 4, 2008
Messages
10,175
Location
Virginia - USA
Apparently this is a large issue. There are a LOT of folks, contractors included, that don't know. The box stores I think are culpable for not stocking the right nails. I think they have changed it now, but for along time that was the way.

You will find an entire setup of the strong tie product line and next to it are only the 5lb buckets of the short hanger nails. I And there was some "helper" telling you "oh yah, you are good. Just use those. Hey look, they say joist hanger don't they?"

Yep, the unknowing DTY'er would not know. For decks, the shear nails I've always used are the standard 10d galvanized from over in the nail section of the store. I don't know why they (Lowes or HD) don't put some boxes of the regular 10d galv nails over with the hangers.
 

csp

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2010
Messages
5,719
Location
Franktown, CO
My inspector looked specifically for the joist hanger nails, even in tight locations. I used a palm nailer in those locations where there wasn't room to swing a hammer.
 

tolken4

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Messages
330
Oh , and before anyone asks, or for anyone who wants to check past work done by a contractor...

Yes, you can tell. All strong tie nails are marked on the head so inspectors can quickly tell if the correct nail was used.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom