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Jumping in to DIY epoxy

nkurz

Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2012
Messages
6
Location
California
Howdy!

I'm a new member who's jumping in with both feet. I've got a 3000 sq ft warehouse space with concrete floors that need to be refinished. I'd like to do it right, but inexpensively. I think this means doing much of it myself, along with help from eager but equally inexperienced employees. On the bright side, it doesn't have to come out perfect, and I'm pretty sure any thing we do will be much better than it is now.

The current floor is about 1/3 sealed concrete, 1/3 flaking epoxy paint, and 1/3 unfinished concrete. All is in decent structural condition, but with some small cracks. I talked to an experienced local Blastrac operator who quoted me $2000 to shot blast it and do the edge work. That sounded reasonable, so he's planning to come back in two weeks to do it. That means I've only got two weeks to figure out what I'm going to do next!

I'd like to have a fairly quick return-to-use. It doesn't need to be one day, but one weekend would be nice. The shot blasting will happen on Friday, and I'd like to be back up and running the following Monday. Fortunately, I don't need the whole place finished by then: it's really just a 1000 sq ft portion that needs to be coated for heavy foot traffic. I think we can keep the rest relatively clean and try to coat it over the next week.

Given the timing, here's what I'm envisioning if all goes well:

Friday 9-5: The pro blasts and preps all 3000 sq ft
Fri 5-8: I clean and patch the 1000 sq ft we'll work on first
Sat 12-4: We put down a single coat of epoxy on that section
Sun 9-12: We topcoat that section with a polyurea or polyaspartic
Mon 9 am: That section is ready for moisture, tables, chairs, and walking
Sometime when we recover: we repeat for the other 2000 sq ft

Ignoring the obvious "hire a professional" solution which I've eliminated due to budget, and recognizing that it doesn't need to come out perfect but just durable, does this seem feasible?

Alternative approaches welcome, but I need to commit to something soon. I've got lots of followup questions about specific products, layer thicknesses, flakes, and nonslip, but figured I should ask about the basic plan first.

Thanks!

--nate
 
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dcs Inc

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
How close are you located to Indy, nate? I could send my son (with materials to save shipping). Having an experienced applicator on the job would save you a ton of headaches.

We have a fast set epoxy that would save you money instead of a fast set poly on the base coat. I assuming you are going a chip system. Depending on UV and use, you may not need a poly on the top coat and could get away with a fast set 100% soilds epoxy.

You don't need a nonslip with a flake system. If going smooth, a high wear urethane with aluminum oxide additive would give you increased slip and scratch resistance. You'll get a lot of responses. gene

www.elitecrete.com
www.elitecreteindiana.com
www.indycrete.com
[email protected]
 

Garage-Tech

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 8, 2012
Messages
70
Location
Port St Lucie, Florida
Nate,
Your plan is conservative. With some help, You +2 all 3000sqft could be covered in your weekend time frame. Two people apply the coatings while one mixes. The job should move relatively smooth that way.

Your onto some good products (polyurea and polyaspartic) so you have done your homework. Get some epoxy that drys quickly, and your can work almost continuously on your floor.

Be sure to buy some proper tools, spike shoes, squeegees (notched and flat), 18inch rollers, and mixing equipment. This will help tremendously.

Good luck, and get with some of these venders for advice on products.
 
OP
N

nkurz

Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2012
Messages
6
Location
California
Thanks for all the replies so far!

dcs: Thanks for the offer, but I'm in California. You reminded me that I hadn't filled out a profile yet. I think I'll probably do light flake, combined with a nonslip mixed in the top coat, but still uncertain. I'm also tempted to get creative with black walnut shells and recycled glass sand, but might be smarter to stick with the tried and true. Between epoxy, urethane, polyaspartic, and polyurea, is one of them inherently less slippery when wet? Any strong preference for one nonslip additive over another?

Private message suggesting getting the epoxy down on Friday and following with a urethane top coat on Saturday: Certainly worth considering. Do I have to worry about letting the patching material cure before going over it, or are there good quick curing options for that?

Garage-Tech: Thanks for the confidence! Yes, I should look more at fast curing epoxies. I think we'll want to do it in at least two batches, just so that we can learn from our mistakes on the first half. Any particular recommendations on tools?

Thanks, and keep them coming.

--nate
 
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dcs Inc

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
That's a little far to send my son. (Of course he wouldn't mind and I might find that his stay becomes extended.)

I play with a lot of 00 double sided mirror glass. Normally mixed into our Micro Finish topping then sanded down to expose. Not tried it into our clear coats but thats one more thing to do on my play list. I think broadcast would be the way to go to control dispersion.

Here's how I rate topical on wear ability, longevity and chemical resistance. this is from least to best.

Water based acrylics
Solvent based acrylics
Water based Epoxy
Solvent based Epoxy
Water based urethane
Solvent based Urethane
Water based then solvent based Polyurea, Polyaspartics

Anyone want to chime in and dispute this, please feel free to do so. There are others but these are the ones I deal with mostly. As far as slip resistance, I'm not sure and would have to fall back on the tech sheets of each.

I'm a bid fan of the aluminum oxides for slip resistance and increased abrasion resistance. A thin coat of urethane with this additive makes for a long lasting finish.

You could also consider a double broadcast quartz floor application. Add the poly top coat and you have a system that will last a really long time.

The 1/16" flake floor system will give you a quartz look without the added second broadcast, thus being less expensive. Add a polyaspartic top coat will give you another long lasting finish.

Patching materials, not sure who you are talking to but hopefully they have gotten their finger nails dirty and not just a salesman. I make my own epoxy slurries and pastes. A little cab-o-sill mixed into a fast set epoxy does wonders and grinding
smooth after applying before starting your top coat.

Depending on your coverage rate on a flake system, you wont need a slip resistant additive. The flakes create a textured surface. Oh, I'm a big fan of 1/8" flakes instead of the 1/4" stuff you see every where. I also like full broadcast.... but thats just me.

A lot of this becomes a personal preference and a salesman mentality takes over with alot of guys. Good luck with what ever system you go with. Have your salesman on speed dial to walk you through everything. gene

www.elitecrete.com
www.elitecreteindiana.com
www.indycrete.com
[email protected]
 

LegacyIndustrial

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jun 7, 2010
Messages
7,994
Location
deerfield, IL
Nate:
They are equally slippery when wet.
You will have to figure you timeline based on you operation.

Your best bet for a DIY is 100% solids, top coat of urethane (soft-skid mixed into urethane).

Polyaspartic is a urethane that is very fast curing. You have got to be able to move rapidly when you use it. A standard urethane will have a one hour pot life, more forgiving.

Our installers do this type of work every weekend with less time and more square footage. You have a good plan, stick with it.

Lastly, I wouldn't go nutz with exotic additives if this is an industrial space. There is little return on investment.
 
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