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Junair Compressor Motor

Crown Imperial

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Got this direct drive compressor on Craigslit. Made by Danish company Junair. Has a Grundfos 220V single phase motor.
I hais the **** at the electrics and have no idea how to wire this thing. I do have 220V in the garage I know that much!

A dumbed down version of how to wire this thing would be greatly appreciated.



 
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wyliesdiesels

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Bummer.

That motor is not made for US operation.

220v is not a system voltage in the US anymore and hasnt been used for decades.

Notice the 50hz rating?

Sell it and buy something else.
 

pancho400cid

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Actually.... It looks like it has two rating nameplates.

One for 220VAC/50 Hz and another for 208-230VAC... possibly 60 Hz.

Remove the grey cable gland fittings and post a pic of both nameplates, and look for a connection schematic on a nameplate or inside the lead box cover and post if there is one.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Actually.... It looks like it has two rating nameplates.

One for 220VAC/50 Hz and another for 208-230VAC... possibly 60 Hz.

Remove the grey cable gland fittings and post a pic of both nameplates, and look for a connection schematic on a nameplate or inside the lead box cover and post if there is one.

Yeah i missed the lower plate. Only saw the upper plate...
 

wyliesdiesels

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So circuits for motors are sized based on motor HP.

That motor is 1.5HP so FLC is 10a. You could use #14 on a 15a breaker.
 
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Bert_

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That terminal block is sort of an IEC standard.

I have wired motors like that before and I will try and find some paperwork with a diagram

I think power goes to the upper left and upper right terminals in that photo, but I'm not sure
 
OP
C

Crown Imperial

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Ha!
I contacted the maker and received this. (also attached)
Still not sure where to connect what.
The two-pole plug on the upper left hand side in the first pic is a "thermo switch". Red and orange wires go to that. Since I only have the motor and no control unit so to speak, can I just leave that thermo swithc out? or do I need to connect it to something?

Then for the power lines I think blue and brown would be power - correct?

 

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pancho400cid

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Well, the schematic is always helpful, unfortunately there is a lot on the posted one that I can't read. I have couple of observations and questions.

WARNING - I am not an electrician.

1 - Why are you having to wire it? Did it not come with a plug? If not, why not? How was it running before you bought it (real question - WAS it running?)

2 - If you are hooking up a pigtail and plug, it looks like it hooks to a main on/off switch, and NOT in the motor lead box and not shown in your pics. It appears it would hook up where the schematic shows "TO MAINS". I think the big oval at lower right is supposed to represent a jacketed power cable from a plug. A side comment is the leads at that point appear to be labeled "L1" and "N" from what I can make out - that is really only correct for low voltage (120VAC) since one wire would be live and the other neutral. Both power wires are live for 240 VAC (more correct to label them L1 and L2). The schematic says use 3 wires (L1, L2 and ground) and for the 230/240VAC set up they should be at least 16 gage.

3 - It looks like to me, the temp switch should have one red and one orange wire going to it. It looks like when the switch trips, it turns on three small fans and a light. It does not look like it will turn off the motor and no high-power (motor current) wires connect to it.

4 - None of the wires in the motor lead box match the schematic color-wise. Not sure why. Was the unit re-wired or something? Not that likely but who knows? Can't read the tags on the wires in most cases in your pics so not sure what they say.

5 - I 'think" there should be a blue wire from the main on/off switch to the motor lead box, and a brown wire from the pressure switch that connect on the big ceramic terminal block on top of the motor. Again - very had to make out the diagram.

6 - The schematic looks like it shows two jumpers (if that is what they are on the diagram) but I only see one jumper (copper strap thingy) in the lead box.

7 - It looks like the one jumper in the lead box has been hot. That could be normal, could be because one connection is crappy where the hole is elongated, or could be because somebody mis-wired it before.
 
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