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Just Dried: Sherwin Williams H&C

screwTheMan

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Just Dried: H&C

:rocker: I went with a light tan. I can't believe how nice it finishes everything off...

328610875_d59005547c.jpg


More photos here
 
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bmwpower

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Looks good. How's the gloss? Is this the stuff that is water based?
 
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screwTheMan

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No, it's solvent based as far as I read in the documentation. This stuff is very noxious and is dry to the touch within an hour or so (supposed to cure for 72 hours before heavy traffic). It's not super slick nor chalky. I'd say it's an eggshell/matte type gloss.

To be honest, my painter quoted me $400 to do the entire 20'x60' slab including the acid etch and 2 coats- so I had very little to do with it besides choosing the H&C product and color!

This shot maybe shows the finish a little better:

328610802_c5d901c044.jpg
 
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sjsfire

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So is this the "Infusion Solvent Based" or the Silicone Acrylic Sealer that Chevy454 is talking about in another flooring thread? Your floor looks fantastic.
 

DynoDave

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That look really nice. And $400 is a fantastic deal. I'll have more than that just in materials if I do it myself.
 
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screwTheMan

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Yes, I believe it to be the same infusion stuff. I should also mention this covers real nice. Two 5 gallon drums was enough to put 2 medium coats on 1200 sq. ft. and there's a good 2 gallons left over.

I'm not going to baby it- I just wanted to put some sort of protection on it while it was all new. I've got a lot of projects coming up with a lot of crusty old cars and a ton of fabrication. So I fully expect to mess it up and I'll keep you guys posted on the durability.
 
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screwTheMan

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Here's some quick snaps of the containers if that helps anybody. Also, I had it stuck in my head that this was a Sherwin Willams product and I don't think that it is. I changed the thread subject line.

331243996_ff6a7ee825.jpg


331243959_309fcf2101.jpg
 
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hog1340

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i notice the container says white base, And yours appears to be tan, so I take it that SW tints it? Also was there any other coatings needed like primer or a top sealer? My concrete just got finished 2 weeks ago, is there a minimum cure time listed on the container?

Finally a product I might be able to afford,.

Thanks Ed
 

z28toz06

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hog1340 said:
i notice the container says white base, And yours appears to be tan, so I take it that SW tints it? Also was there any other coatings needed like primer or a top sealer? My concrete just got finished 2 weeks ago, is there a minimum cure time listed on the container?

Finally a product I might be able to afford,.

Thanks Ed
good question. My floor isnt poured yet. I am wondering if I should tell the concrete guy I want the floor finished a certain way so I dont have to bead blast it.
 

sjsfire

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hog1340 said:
i notice the container says white base, And yours appears to be tan, so I take it that SW tints it? Also was there any other coatings needed like primer or a top sealer? My concrete just got finished 2 weeks ago, is there a minimum cure time listed on the container?

Finally a product I might be able to afford,.

Thanks Ed

Google the product he has a picture of above. I picked up a copy at the Sherwin Williams store. They have probably 50+ different colors you can choose from
 
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screwTheMan

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UPDATE

So I've been in the garage for a few weeks now doing all kinds of stuff. Here are my observations...

- Despite no grit additive and a power trowled floor, it's not nearly as slippery when it gets wet as it looks like it could be.

- Holds up well to oil drips. But gasoline and brake fluid soften it up quite easily.

- MIG welding sparks don't seem to bother it. Torch cut slag will discolor it slightly.

- Dragging a jackstand or dropping a tool won't harm it. But scraping the K member of your low *** Chevy will take it up. Even then, it doesn't flake off.

I tried to be ginger with it as long as I could. Overall it still looks great. I'm over trying to keep it looking like new. My garage is for working! Not parking!

I think Ryan is right- the best working shop floor is a concrete floor. But I'm glad I took the opportunity to protect it the best I can while everything was still new.
 
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screwTheMan

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hog1340 said:
i notice the container says white base, And yours appears to be tan, so I take it that SW tints it? Also was there any other coatings needed like primer or a top sealer? My concrete just got finished 2 weeks ago, is there a minimum cure time listed on the container?

Finally a product I might be able to afford,.

Thanks Ed

60 days cure time on fresh concrete. No other coatings besides the initial acid etch. There's a ton of different colors. I'd recommend a darker one rather than a lighter one like I went with.
 

Abodyracer

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If memory serves me correctly this is a Zylol based. Very noxious and dangerous. Wear a good resporator and lots of ventilation. H&C is the brand and is marketed through Sherwin Williams/Dutch Boy. I believe the acid wash is a phosporic acid, same stuff you find in most soda pop. Choose your color carefully. Once you put it down you cannot change. Because of the zylol base if you tried to chage color the new coat will re-wet the previous and the two colors will mix. Example: Black previous color, white new color=gray final color.

The place I used to work for sold this product. One of my customers said this was the only thing he could get to stick in the bathroom area of his shop. The previous business that was in the building didn't do much in the area of housekeeping and the batroom floor was coated with years of grease, dirt and oil buildup.
 
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volvo

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z28toz06 said:
good question. My floor isnt poured yet. I am wondering if I should tell the concrete guy I want the floor finished a certain way so I dont have to bead blast it.

I always wondered could one just add color mix to the concrete and be done with it. Less cost, no other prep or lift worries, nearly damage free color surface ??? Possible or am I living in a dream world??? In the olden days, 50's I used to see allot of colored cement porches, (green/red/off white) even older homes of the 30's-40's..H
 

mpraddict

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volvo said:
I always wondered could one just add color mix to the concrete and be done with it. Less cost, no other prep or lift worries, nearly damage free color surface ??? Possible or am I living in a dream world??? In the olden days, 50's I used to see allot of colored cement porches, (green/red/off white) even older homes of the 30's-40's..H

There are a few different options for coloring concrete. Using the manufacturer Schofield as an example:
Lithichrome Chemstain is a concrete stain that is applied to either an old or new slab. It penetrates and stains only the top protion of the slab. If you chip the slab, you'll get down past the color layer but this is really the only option for and existing slab.
Chromix is an integral concrete colorant added to the concrete batch. This gives you consistant color through the whole slab. This is the most expensive of the three options IIRC.
Lithichrome color hardener is a dry shake material scattered over a freshly poured slab. As stated it adds color as well as acting as a surface hardener. As with the chemstain, the color only penetrates the top portion of the concrete.
The chemstain can be combined with either the chromix or the color hardener to achieve mottled color patterns.
 

volvo

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mpraddict said:
There are a few different options for coloring concrete. >>>

Any ball park idea what kind of money we are talking about for either process to color only, no stamping? Thanks ...H
 

mpraddict

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All three options can be color only. Two are exclusive to new concrete pours, the stain can be applied to existing slabs. There can be a lot of factors to pricing the stain on an existing slab, most variables being related to the condition of the existing concrete and what prep is needed to make the slab ready to accept the stain. Even with new slabs, the pricing will vary by region of the country. Best bet is to talk to a local concrete guy.
 

volvo

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[Two are exclusive to new concrete pours, >>>

OK, in your experience or last time you have done this, how much might a sack of color stuff run and how many would you put into a normal truck load. I'm not trying to hold you and kind of an estimate, I just find the possibilities very interesting...H
 

Mr. Welsh

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You can find it and price it at your local concrete supply store. Typically one bag per truck, but obviously it varies depending on how dark you want it and how much concrete is in the truck. Getting a consistent color can be a challenge when you're mixing one truck at a time.

A big drawback might be that it isn't going to be shiny like the epoxy products. Personally I think it's great if you want a colored patio, sidewalk, or porch cap; but I'd have reservations about putting it in a garage.
 

jaredwb

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These concrete stains are good for an inexpensive and fairly easy option.

Other options
If new, the concrete can be integrally colored (as discussed) and then polished to give all the benefits of polished concrete. Or the colored shake hardeners can be polished after the concrete is cured

If already placed, dye or stain can be added during the polishing process

These options are definately more expensive, but not as bad as you might think for the best finish possible.
Just a little info-
 
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